Did anyone on surf any good swell from Hurricane Bertha? How was it?
I surfed some waist+ sets at Tower Rd in the delaware seashore state park on saturday (closeout city), then on sunday i was in the water at the ocean city (md) inlet around 7 am. the tides and heavy boat traffic were making the waves really hard to read and the mixed up swells were odd, waves breaking on top of each other, etc, so i went to assateague island - beautiful. shoulder to head high sets, nicely rolling in over the sandbar.
best of the trip - biggest of my life at assateague (been surfing for about a month) head high+ right. I take off right at the peak, beautiful drop. The wave catches up to a smaller one ahead of it, and I'm looking down a 4 ft face, surfing on the ledge in the double up. I throw caution to the wind and go for the drop...as the smaller wave curls over. my board drops out from under me - my shin found it at the bottom.
i had to get my toothbrush out, cuz i just ate S*!
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