Need more whoa on my gelding.?

Question

I have been riding this gelding for a few weeks now and he just runs through all of the bits we have in our tack shed. I've read that a long shank snaffle gag bit is what I need. He also likes to throw his head. So I thought maybe a bit with a nose band on it so I don't have to use a tie down. I really like the horse because he does want to run, I just don't want him to run right now. I am trying to train him on barrels, he's been a ranch horse all his life (10yrs) and hasn't been really ridden until lately. I just want to get some whoa on him and be able to be easy with my hands. What do you suggest?

Answer 1

I agree with others that more ground work should be done first with basic commands, especiailly seeing as he hasnt been ridden in a while. If he hasnt been ridden in a long time, he will be full of energy, naturally.

Get him used to listening again on the ground, and then make the journey to the saddle.

I dont agree with harsh bits. Horses mouths should be kept as soft as possible.

Good Luck

Answer 2

Throwing head = get out of my mouth.

More severe bits isn't necessary, cruel really, how would you like it?, ditto tie downs, work on light contact with his mouth.

Go back to basics, round ring, specific spot in the ring is the "Whoa" place...teaches him to respond to the voice command.

Work on YOUR HANDS.

Answer 3

There are two ways to solve this.  The first is to take him to a large field and when he starts pulling on the bit to go...let him.  Then when he wants to slow down keep him going.  Keep him going well past the time he wants to stop.  A few lessons of this and they do generally learn to go only when you ask.

The second way that I had to use on my arab is to get a stronger bit.  Running her until she was tired simply did not work.  I ran her until I was tired and she still wanted to go.  I bought a long shank correction bit for her.  It worked wonders.  I eventually stepped down to a softer bit after she got to where she would listen even at a run.

Answer 4

You don't need a stronger but...You need more training.  The bit might work for a while, but eventually he will run through that too and you will be back at square one.  I would say lots of groundwork-does he whoa when led?  Does he do it well?  If not, work on that - teach him the word.  Next, walk him.  Keep your hands very low and do not be afraid to exaggerate your body motion and your hand height-they should be very, very low.  This will help him keep his head down (make sure you aren't pulling - a medium rein would be best) and to not pull at the bit.  Walk him until he is completely relaxed.  This may take two minutes or two hours, but you need to be patient with him.  When he is completely relaxed ask him to whoa-sit deep and pull towards your navel slightly..don't yank.  Keep him in his relaxed state. If there is no tossing, give him    a pat (even if it takes him a while to stop) Continue to practice this and exaggerate your own motions.  Don't overdo your workout but stop on a good note.

Good luck

Answer 5

I have trained horses for quite a few years now and have learned one thing and that is that using more severe bits only works to punish the horse not teach them to accept your commands. You shouldn't have to tie or pull your horse into submission, remember your trying to work as a team not a dictator.

The best medicine is ground work using verbal and subtle physical cues that you can use while your undersaddle.  I guarantee that if you take it a little slower for a bit and go back to the basics your horse will be much quicker to respond and neither of you will have to go through the bad experience of fighting over who's going where and when and how fast your getting there.

Just as a side note, I generally work with horses that have been abused and thus were seen as too difficult to be useful and written off. They're all in great homes and it didn't take long.

Answer 6

The first thing I would do is take him off of any feed completely. Saddle him in an enclosed area and go back to the basics with a plain snaffle. Walk him only, when you want to stop, tighten your grip on the reins just until you make contact with his mouth and stop riding. Think about stopping. As soon as he comes to a complete stop release his mouth. Kepp doing this until his response is excellent so that with just the slightest pressure he is stopping. Then go to a trot and do the same thing. It may take a while, it may not but you need to be prepared to spend some time with this even months. When he is excellent stopping at a trot go to a canter. When he is excellent stopping at a canter, you will do the same thing but as soon as he stops, back him several steps. Do this over and over until the horse starts thinking back when you say whoa. What better way to get a horse to stop moving forward than to get him to think about going backwards when he's cantering. It gets him to bring his rear legs under him more. This is a good way build on getting some excellent sliding stops if you want to go that far.

Answer 7

dont use a stronger bit this will only mask the problem, not solve it, using a stronger bit could hurt your horses mouth, and he will, eventually start to run through this bit too.

work on your hands...and you need more training. light hands will make the horse more reponsive and less likely to pull against you.

Answer 8

I'd have to agree with the longer shanks...i ride a cuttin' horse for trail riding and i use a combination bit on him. Has the hackamore and the bit. The bit on mine is very light weight but very effective in stopping one or mine anyway...every horse is different. And on throwing his head ...now i'm no professional comes strickly from my own experience, but put a tie down on him when your workin' him and dont give him alot of slack in it until he learns to hold his head where you want it. Kind of a less brutal approach...worth a try though! I really hope this helps in some way. Good Luck!