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Quick sword question?

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I am shopping online for a sword and when I was looking I came accross the terms battle ready and Cold steel. I want to know what makes these swords different from the rest. I know the battle ready swords mean ready for battle but is that all? I will take all the info I can thanks

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  1. The only thing that would really make them different from the rest is the fact that the steel may not be folded or hand forged, and makes them less expensive. Instead they are machine forged and tempered along with mixing carbon for razor edge and durability. The difference between a only hand forged and a machine forged would be anywhere from 3000 to 25000 USD


  2. hesamurai is a moron and thinks yahoo answers is free advertising for the company he works for (the website he listed). their swords are very poor quality despite looking decent on the website.

    I agree that "battle ready" is advertising nonsense. To be honest, my 1994 GMC Jimmy is battle ready but is it really "battle appropriate"? Definately check out swordforum. I have been a member there for a long time and the amount of information that can be learned on there is amazing.

  3. Sword Making Materials Guide

    STAINLESS STEEL SUMMARY:

    This material is commonly used in swords designed "for display only" which allows better pricing compared to "functional swords" (described in next section). To see how easily a stainless steel sword can break when misused, view the TV Clip: Shop at Home Network misuse of Stainless Steel Sword.

    Don't be discouraged - you can find some really nice looking swords that are heavy, enjoyable, relatively maintenance free and can be either very sharp or dull bladed. You just have to remember they are not toys nor designed for withstanding "impact" in any capacity. For that kind of material, see our next section "functional swords".

    FUNCTIONAL STEEL SUMMARY:

    CARBON STEEL: Strong good material often used in mid to high-end swords or for functional use.

    FLEXIBLE STEEL (spring steel): This is the best material for functional swords. Will bend if struck hard (large impact) and can be bent back into shape by a professional. Preferred material for "staged combat" (like you would see at a renaissance faire).

    G2(sm): Under special contract with the foundry, these high carbon spring steel swords are developed with specifications that can only be called G2(sm). G2(sm) Mfgs Note: The 3/16" blade of high carbon spring steel has a full hefty tang. Tested on many standing 2"x4" boards, split them with no marring on the blade. Also tested it on horizontal 2"x4 resting on each side (solid resting) and came straight down. It did not cut completely through, but did cut deep (again no marring of the blade or edge). The final ultimate test was the Steel-to-Steel(sm). We performed 9 good blows only nicking the blade. The blade did not break nor did the tang or handle in either of these test. — BEST VALUE for Functional Swords

    STAGE / THEATER SWORDS:

    Stage Steel™ swords are full-tang swords made of rigid steel with blunt edges. These swords are durable and designed for reenactment fighting and staged combat or battle. (See Grades of Steel Used in Swords below for more information.)

    GRADES OF STEEL USED IN SWORD MANUFACTURING

    Traditional/Original Japanese Steel - Excellent quality. This seel contains iron, carbon, silicon and other various trace elements. Silicon is included to increase structural strength and improve flexibility characteristics.

    AISI/American 1050/10xx - A very similar steel to the traditional/Japanese version. Although not identical, it's the best alternate.

    AISI/American 5160 - A good choice for European style swords, because of its toughness. Even though small amounts of chromium exist, there is not to qualify is as 'stainless steel" (More than 13% is required to make steel "stainless).

    A2 Tool Steel - The "A" stands for 'Air Hardening' also called air cooled ("slow cooling") and is the better way of cooling steel than having it submerged in water or oil ("fast cooling"). A2 is a tough chromium tool steel and will hold an edge very well. Again, the chromium content is not sufficient to qualify this steel as "stainless". Despite having excellent properties, this material does not allow for a hamon ("cloud pattern line") to be created and therefore should not be used in a Japanese katanas.

    D2 Tool Steel - Good choice for a chrome-vanadium tool steel. Although it possesses 12.5% chromium (not stainless) but enough for most other steels discarded for sword steel. However, D2's unique inclusion of vanadium and tungsten (acting as grain refiners) counteract some of the weakening effects of the chrome. Addition use of molybdenum and nickel makes this steel tough and hard, its ability to hold a good edge is controversial. Unfortunately, as in the A2 steel, not being able to make a hamon, it may only be a slight improvement over stainless steels.

    S-5 Steel - The "S" represents "shock-resistant" as a result of its 2% silicon content. This material is harder to source, and therefore likely to be more expensive than other carbon steels.

    S-7 Steel - Again a shock-resistant tool steel which has been air harden. If made incorrectly it will be difficult to heat treat. The sword smithing process is critical and inferior heat treating often results in poor steel. More recently S-7 has become more alloy-rich and note preferable as a high-performance sword material.

    CK55 Krupp Steel - Common in some retail swords, this material is the European equivalent of AISI 1055. This good steel is made in Germany and the "C" represents "Carbon" and "K" for Krupp (the German manufacturer).

    50CRV4 - Very small amounts of Vandium and Chromium combined with trace amounts of Silicon and Manganese make this a makes a good spring steel material.

    STAINLESS STEELS (420, 440A, 440B, 440C, 440V, ATS-34) -. Great for household kitchen knives, pocket folding knives, and similar products. Stainless steel is unsuitable for swords intended to be used in full-contact swordplay reenactments, because of weak grain boundaries caused by chromium. The chromium gives stainless a mirror finish when polished, but makes it more brittle. Other alloying elements like Vanadium, Tungsten, etc. in the right proportions qualify steels as stainless. NOTE: Beware of buying "440 STAINLESS STEEL" swords unless they specify "440-C STEEL" which is significantly better than 440-A, or 440-B.

    CPM420V Stainless Steel - This is an upgrade for CPM440V (made by the Crucible Materials Corporation). This 20% high alloy material was originally created as a high-wear steel for increased wear, corrosion resistance and edge holding capabilities. Due to a high alloy content, high finish results are limited. This is an excellent steel for knives and knife makers find CPM440V blades can out cut all other steels.

    420J2 Stainless Steel - This is the very low end of stainless steel with very little carbon content. Many third world overseas companies use this material to speed the production process (lowering quality as well as price). Because this material can have sword edges ground easily, as many as ten 420J2 swords can be ground in the same time it takes to make one higher quality 440-C decorative sword.

    High Carbon Steel / High Carbon Spring Steel - Basically a plain carbon steel, it's also known as "Spring Steel" or "Live Steel". Commonly made of recycled 5160, 1065, 1050, CK55 or any low alloy or plain carbon steel. If the steel is not properly heat-treated when re-smelted it will retain memory of its previous shape and be more likely to break. Most issues of quality can be found originating in India, the Philippines or in Malaysia. These materials will require oiling to prevent rusting and it's a good idea to keep swords out of scabbards to avoid damage from moisture and corrosion from the chemicals in the leather.

    Damascus Steel - This is an extremely high carbon content steel. Historically know for its incredible strength and flexibility, the blade was also very distinguishable by a "water marking" design left on the surface of the blade as a result of the sword making process. Swords made of Domascus steel were very prized and expensive. The original steel material was called "Wootz" steel, but the art of making it was lost about 1750. Today Damascus is actually made by a pattern-welded process (among a few others).

  4. In modern times, the battle ready means the sword is practical and capable for cutting or sth alike, not for decoration only.

    And For a sword, have a  check at http://www.handmadesword.com

    most of their swords are handmade, real swords, practical ones.

    a professional sword seller.

  5. "Battle ready" is advertiser's jargon.  It has no legal definition.  Most manufacturers use it to imply you could use their swords in actual battle.  

    Take "battle ready" with a very large grain of salt.  Some makers battle ready swords are functional, and can be used for test cutting exercises safely.  Others are not.

    Cold Steel makes very sturdy, very sharp swords.  Some say they are over-engineered, and a bit too heavy.  However, Cold Steel's swords may be used for test cutting quite safely.  Their quality control is very high, and they have been making swords very well for a long time.

    I would recommend checking Sword Forum out.  There are many articles on good swords (and bad), along with a Beginner's Forum and many posters include pictures or even video.

    I will also suggest that before you try cutting with a sword, get competent instruction.  A fast moving sword is extremely dangerous if mis-handled.

    Good luck, and stay safe!
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