Tried all suggestions,still wont start?

Question

i went and bought a can of starting fluid also no start on it either,it's a honda 50 xr. model yr. 2000,it does'nt use a battery , but i did look at all the electrical connections,all looked good,i tried everything i can possibly think of to get it to start,acts like it wants to start just unable too for some reason?

Answer 1

you have a gas problem,very possible is the pump. to fine out, first spray a gas inside the intake manifold ,if it stars then you know is the gas if not you have to look in different place it could be a silence or a coil,remove a spark plug wire ,pout a scrod driver in, have some one tern the Ki and observe the spark Wall you keep the screwdriver close to a engine metal,if you see a spark then you know the electrical is OK

Answer 2

how long since it run? smell the fuel see if its good, if it is take the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb bowel, (catch it in a cup) pour it out on the concrete, if the fuel soaks in the concrete and leaves bubbles, you have water in the fuel, possibly from condensation, while around the carb look closely at the rubber boot that holds the carb to the cylinder, 8 yrs old the rubber may have hardened or cracked, a vacuum leak there will cause it not to start.

Answer 3

Did you replace the spark plug ? Make sure the kill switch is off too.

Answer 4

Don...

The  Starter Fluid makes for a Clue.

The Ether  Removes some variables from the equation----at least momentarily.

Fuel,,,,,

For a Moment,,,Forget about Fuel Probs,Carb,etc.

The Starter Fluid becomes the Fuel.

It wouldn't matter if Carb & Gas tank were sitting on the work bench.

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If it wont "Run" for a few seconds on Start Fluid,,,

there's only 3 Basic Possibilities.

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#1,,The Ether is NOT being Ignited.

The stuff requires only a FRACTION of the Spark Voltage  gasoline needs.

So You'd have to have VERY WEAK ignition system.

Quick Test---

Remove Spark Plug from engine..

Put a short Wire or Nail in plug connector,,in place of spark plug.

KIck it over fast and several times.

It Should make a spark about 1/4" to 3/8" long.

If not a Bare Minimum of 1/8" to 3/16",,,Voltage is Too Low.

That could be as simple as a Bad Cap w/ too much resistance,,,or bad connection between wire & cap.

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#2,,,Extreme Low Compression

More in the realm of DAMAGE than simple,common wear.

Reason is that the actual ignition>Combustion>Pressure in a damaged engine  is being vented to Out of the combustion chamber.

So,,,No Pressure to act upon piston,,and support running.

Buy or Borrow a Compression Gauge to Check it,,,unless You are Very confident you have decent compression.

Those engines are NOT very sensitive to Comp,,in most cases.

They'll Generally start and run on really Dismal compression.

One exception is  when they have a 'Race Cam",,,that makes any loss of compression Really problematic,,,particularly far as Starting and Idle.

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3rd,,,only happens Rarely.

Sheared Flywheel Key is one fairly common cause.

Actual Fault is a matter of Ignition Timing going WAY out of time.

When Flywheel Key Shears,,,it usually spins around in in Direction of Normal Rotation.

Which makes the Ign Timing Very Advanced,,,Piston is still way down the hole.

Making effectively a Huge Combustion Chamber.

Extreme Low Compression at Firing point.

2 results are,,,

No Pressure while "Fuel" Expends itself,,

and

Engine tries to "Kick back",,,some even try to Start Backwards occasionally.

At Minimum,,,the Too-Early Pressure Rise  fights the Piston/crankshaft from  Making it to and beyond Top Dead Center.

And when Piston DOES reach the top,,,,

There's No Combustion >expanding Gasses>Rising Pressures to Push it DOWN.

So it just spins over "Dead".

A Sheared Key/slipped Flywheel can MIMIC both,,NO FIRE and  Severe Low Compression

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It's Hard for actual Timing to shift on those systems.

Usually it goes LATE if anything gets loose and slips.

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Another thing which can cause ODD Spark Timing is if there's any "whiskers" on the Flywheel or the Trigger Coil/PickUp.

Rust,metal,etc can trigger the thing Anywhere,,,and it can be at random.

If it causes a Trigger Pulse before CDI is Charged,,it Drains the  Box---then No/Low Juice available to fire at the Correct time.

It's an obscure happenstance,,,but it Does happen.

In Some geographic locations,,,the local "DIRT" is paramagnetic and can trigger a false pulse

Solution is simple,,,clean the mag assy including p/u coil

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All just some Suggestions.

And mostly all based upon fact that Start Fluid  IGNITES and causes "psedo-running" VERY Easily,,,for at least long enough to give clear impression it IS "running" a few seconds.

If NOT,,,

then it's NOT getting Lit,,

or pressure is bleeding out extremely fast(holed piston/bent valve type of Fast),,

Or Ignition is occurring Waaaay out-of-time.

One last thing,,,about Sheared Flywheel Key.

factory Timing Marks will always  LOOK Correct.

Flywheel and Crankshaft are Independant,,,except for the KEY.

Flywheel Marks can be aligned Perfectly,,,,while the CRANKSHAFT might be anywhere.

So, even checking timing with a Strobe Light is not confirmation timing is Correct,,,nor will it indicate a sheared key.

Quick Check>>>

*Pull Plug out

*Feel for Compression as You turn engine Over

* On Compression stroke,,,use a pencil or something to Feel/judge when Piston is all the way at Top of Stroke.

*With Piston at TDC,,,,then Look at Timing Marks on Flywheel.

If they do Not indicate TDC,,,while Piston is KNown to be at TDC....that's a sheared key/slipped flywheel.

Good Luck with it