Sealing unfinished wood floors, pls help?

Question

I need an expert opinion here:

I recently pulled up all my nasty old carpet to reveal nice wood floors throughout the house. I did a water test, and the floors appear to be unsealed. They are definately unfinished.

The floors are completely smooth, and require no sanding, they are like a baby's bottom!

What is the cheapest and easiest way for me to proceed?

I know that there are a few options- waxing, and polyurathane.

How and what do I apply for these options?

I am not a big fan of sanding in between coats, and I was wondering if there is something I can just put on there in a day.

(I cannot afford a professional).

Waxing seems tempting- does this serve as a sealant and a finish?

if I choose waterbased polyurathane- does this serve as a sealant and a finish? Or does it need both?

Answer 1

You know that most people wish there could be a product that could actually work the way you want it to. Apply one coat of finish, no sanding and guess what? There is such a product and it does work. And even better yet, it is safe for the environment.

It's called Rubio Monocoat Natural Oil Wood Finish. And, read on and you will be amazed.

With it's truly amazing revolutionary technology, Monocoat is free of VOC, comes in a wide spectrum of 34 colors in matte or satin finish and of course it is a Single-Coat simple application. Not only that it is gives you a durable protection and is easy to touch up.

Since Monocoat adheres with the first microns of wood by molecular bonding, the result is you get a Natural Oil that can cover an average of 400 sq. ft. of floor per liter.  Not only is a second coat not required, the finished wood will not accept a second coat. The same action protects against overlaps and color variance and causes the process to complete in a single coat.

I have been in the building business for over 40 years and have never seen a product that compares to this. The normal process of one coat, sand, second coat, sand and one final coat and then stay off the floor for a week is not your only option.

Here is a one coat finish that allows you to use the floor after 24 to 36 hours. If only this product would have been around sooner. It sure would have saved my clients a lot of headaches.

If your floor is unfinished and truly as smooth as you say it is then I would recommend filling any holes caused by nails or staple with a good wood filler and after the filler is dry use a sanding block with very find sandpaper and sand the filler so that it is level with the floor. Use a wet/dry sandpaper, the kind that is black in color, and a 400 grit should be best for the job. Make sure you damp wipe the floor down after this and you should then be good to go.

You really need to check this product out yourself. Just click on the following link to find out everything you need to know about this product including how apply it and where to find a dealer.

http://www.showroom411.com/SiteBrowser.a...

I hope this helps.  Rick

Answer 2

First, use a flexible putty knife to fill the holes from the tack strips and carpet pad staples with a wood colored filler, then wipe it off with a damp rag. You might want to screen the entire floor using a #120 grit screen on a rented 16" floor buffer (the machine that is most commonly used for waxing linoleum), then sweep, vacuum and tack.  This will remove any dirt and anything else stuck to the wood surface, and truly ready the floor for coating.

Waxing is the method that grandma used, and requires moving the furniture, stripping and rewaxing forever.  That labor intensive maintenance is why in the 1950s and 60s, so many homes got wall-to-wall carpet installed over the wood.  But it is an option.  A slightly better option is to apply a natural oil such as tung oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. Just paint it on, wipe off with a rag, wait a couple days for it to really dry and voila.  More slowly but like the wax, the rubbed oil will get dirty and need redoing.

A sealing finish like polyurethane will require far less maintenance.  But the first coat of any sealing finish will raise the wood grain somewhat, making it feel rough.  Water based finishes provide easier clean up of tools and dry fast, but raise the grain more than solvent based.  Even though the first coat will dry to the touch in afew hours, allowed it to dry overnight, then lightly buff the entire floor with a used #120 grit screen or a new maroon-colored buffing pad, thus knocking down the raised grain.  Again sweep, vacuum and tack.  Then apply another coat or two.  To maintain you only have to vacuum or sweep dust and sometimes usae a damp rag to wipe up a spill.