Self-Tuning a Snowboard?

Question

I am going away snowboarding in a few days and have already been a few times this season. I need a way to tune the base of my snowboard without having to leave it at a shop because it will take too long. Is there any good wax to use that does not require you to iron it on then scrape it off? Also, how do you sharpen the edges? If you know of any good methods or any good products (waxes), please let me know...

Answer 1

there is some spray wax, but it doesnt work nearly as well as iron-on wax.  As for the edges, if you have a ski scraper, some will have a corner on the bottom that's cut out so you can go around the edges and take off any knicks or burs.  Also, an exacto knife or razor blade can be used to remove knicks, just make sure you sand it back down.

Answer 2

KUU makes great tuning products.  They also have a free tuning guide that is more complete than anything someone could write here in "answers".  Check it out:  http://www.kuu.com/tuningmanual2.pdf

Answer 3

If you go to a snowboard shop, it shouldnt take that long to get your base waxed or your edge sharpened.

People do sell files and irons and wax, so you can do it yourself.

If you dont want to iron on wax, you can buy rub on wax. While that can be fast, Iron wax is still better and lasts longer.

You can find everything you need her:

http://www.rei.com/snowboard/Snowboard+T...

If you dont wanna spend so much time on the wax:

http://www.rei.com/product/744894

File:

http://www.rei.com/product/744890

But i still recommend that you just take it to a shop and have them fix it up in 5-10 minutes.

EDIT: You can also just get everything tuned at the resort, They usually have boardshops up there, and it shouldnt take longer than 5-10 minutes

Answer 4

I'd recommend doing it yourself. sure you'll s***w it up a few times, but you don't learn how to do it by taking it to the board shop. Make sure you have a free evening to do this. The first couple times you do it it'll take a couple hours.

Tuning and waxing are two different processes.

TUNING: *NOTE* If you are going to ride park don't tune your edges. you want them dull to grind on rails. if you are gonna ride mountain definitely tune your edges you'll handle better

You'll need a stone and a tuning tool with a file. you can buy em both at any boardshop or online.

TO TUNE YOUR BOARD!

1. Take the stone (looks like a tiny little brick) and rub out any knicks and burrs you have on your edges. You don't have to press hard, just go over it until the edge is smooth and free of dings and you don't catch your fingernail on it.

2. Take the file, (I recommend the oneballjay edge tool because it has a nice handshaped grip, has preset angles and is really easy to use) and drag it around your edges until they have a nice even sharpness. no rounded corners.

WAXING! There is absolutely no reason to not wax your board. everything is better when you go fast. I recommend waxes by oneballjay because you can use any of them as iron on or rub-on. I'd recommend ironing it on over rubbing as rub-on is always kinda chunky and might last a day at best.

Or look into Viper paste wax with graphite mixed in. it ain't bad.



TO WAX you will need

*WAX (be sure to buy wax for the temperature of the snow you're riding on. I'd recommend a solid wax and not rub on. If in doubt go for an all temp wax... it's better than nothing.. I recommend oneballjay because their waxes work great and smell good)

*IRON or SKI WAXER (if you're using an iron be sure to use one you don't plan on using to iron clothes with as you're gonna get wax all over it. I'd recommend a ski waxer because it's got nice smooth tips on it)

*BASE CLEANER! (If you don't want to buy base cleaner you can use Isopropyl Alcohol and salt)

*GREEN SCOTCHPADS! (NO steelwool)

*WHITE BUFFING PADS (buy these when you buy your wax)

*WAX SCRAPER (buy the plastic one not the metal one. the metal one is for board repair not for wax)

To wax your board

-the instructions will tell you to do this in a well ventilated area. whatever a garage works well so does a bathroom. Really you want a place where you'll be able to sweep up the wax shavings. plus you'll never get the wax out of a carpet

1. CLEAN YOUR BASE! Use the base cleaner and green scotchpads (or an old towel) you purchased to clean the base of your board. Apply the stuff and then scrub the old wax and dirt off. If you're using alcohol and salt dump the alcohol on the base of your board, sprinkle a little salt on it and buff with an old towel till the old wax is all gone. Douse with alcohol and give one last wipedown with a towel to get all residue off. Let the board dry (you shouldn't get too bored. alcohol dries quick) use this time to plug the iron in and heat it up

2. APPLY WAX! Take your lump of wax and your iron. If you have a ski waxer it'll heat itself to the correct temperature. An iron is a little trickier. You have to find the setting on your iron that melts the wax but does not smoke (that means the wax is burning which is bad). Hold the iron vertically over your board and press a corner of the wax onto the face of the iron. Drizzle the wax from tip to tail all over. you'll probably end up with droplets the size of a nickel or a quarter. try to get em about an inch and a half apart. Don't worry if they're closer, you'll just end up with more wax shavings. It takes practice to get this part down. This is also why you don't want to do this on a carpeted area

3. IRON YOUR BOARD! Once you have applied the wax to the whole board, it's time to smooth it out! Take the iron and iron your board like it's a shirt! what you're doing is trying to do is even the wax out. make sure all of the base is covered. You should not see any more dots, just a hazy waxy surface.

4. SMOOTH THE WAX! Take your scraper and drag it lengthwise along the base of the board shaving off all the excess wax. You do not want a lumpy waxjob because it'll come off in chunks. Get it even! that is the key. When you have it smoothed, take the white buffing pad and make like the Karate Kid and buff in handsized circles all over the board removing lingering wax debris and making your wax silky smooth. It should have a hazy gloss to the base of your board when you're done. Nice and smooth.

5. Find something to do with the wax shavings like making crayons or just throwing it away. If you're really stingy you can melt it down and try to reuse it. The first time you do this you'll probably use like half your lump of wax. do it often enough and you'll be able to wax your board in no time and only use a quarter of a piece.

all that stuff you need can be found at http://www.oneballjay.com check it out.

If you don't want to do all that, get some rubon wax. the results won't be as good, but it'll work for a day.

Answer 5

Get it tuned at the mountain!  It shouldn't take them long at all and it's worth it to have a pro do it rather than risk damaging your board doing it yourself.