Should I throw my board when faced with a large oncoming wave?

Question

Should I throw my board when faced with a large oncoming wave?

Answer 1

In addition to Katie's answer, please make sure and check for others around you before ditching your board.  Being hit by someone's board is not fun and will probably end up in a fight/argument and you being told to go in.

Have you thought of learning how to duck dive or turtle?

Answer 2

It depends on the situation. If you are up against a wave that breaks in deep water far from the beach (like Sunset), lock your fingers around your rails, pull your chest tight to the deck and let the wave have its way with you. The advantage here is that your board's buoancy will bring you back to the surface and act as a sail that will carry you closer to the safety of the shore while helping you avoid breaking your leash and thus being left boardless out in the lineup. Conversely, at a shallow reefbreak where waves are very hollow, and the reef is very sharp (like Pipeline), it might benefit you to toss your board and swim under the wave since your board will catch the wave's momentum thus driving you down into the reef and causing a bloody mess.

Answer 3

Sure but if it is a shark give ya 1000 bucks to save yourself and toss my ex-wife.