Socializing Feral kittens?

Question

I have 2 feral kittens aprox 12 weeks old, i got them 2 days ago. One will already let you hold her but the other is deathly afraid. come within 3 feet of him and hed hissing, spitting, and trying to atack you. He bit right through someones nail. Do you think he can be socialized or is he to far gone I;m not expecting them to be tame in 2 days, but the black one seems like he will never let someone touch him.

Answer 1

Generally you can't, once they've gone feral.  He'll come around for food, but that's all.

Answer 2

There's a whole pile of information and methods for taming feral kittens here http://www.messybeast.com/feralkit.htm

12 weeks is not an impossible age to tame them (I have done so at that age), but it is a long slow process.  Always bear in mind that a small percentage of cats inherit a mix of genes that means they will not become tame.  In this case, neutering them and allowing them to be outdoor cats is better than stressing them by continued captivity.

Some of my cats were tamed ferals and the time and effort was well worth it.

Make sure the ferals' room is escape proof; beware of the following: flue-pipes, chimneys, loose floorboards, windows which do not close properly, holes into wall cavities, suspended ceilings, doors and windows which cannot be secured.

THE TAMING PROCESS - FIRST CONTACT

Initially, keep the feral kitten or kittens in a kitten-pen (Majesticage etc) in a room where they will see humans frequently. Some people prefer to have them loose in a small room but this may result in "indoor ferals". Others only have them loose during petting-and-play sessions. Spend plenty of time with them and talk gently to them. Always move slowly and quietly so as not to frighten them - they will be jumpy at first. When you're out of the room leave a radio or TV playing, preferably on a 'talking' channel, to accustom them to human voices being a normal part of cat life. A tape recording of your voice is even better.

For the first few days don't try to handle them; let them recover from their fright at being in close proximity to people. Offer titbits so that they come to regard you, the food-offerer, as a surrogate parent. It has been suggested that bribes akin to their feral diet work best, e.g. cooked rabbit for rural ferals or cooked white fish for those used to fish and chip shop refuse, as familiar food helps hunger overcome fear. Whatever bribes you offer, it is vitally important that the main part of their diet is a balanced commercial cat/kitten food.

Before opening the cage to change litter, food or water etc, ensure the room is escape proof. When you reach in to the pen, don't do so with outstretched fingers - curled fingers are less threatening. In feral kittens, caution overrides curiosity and they will defend themselves rather than investigate your fingers. As they become less frightened by your presence (and more curious), try leaning in through the cage door and tempting them to play with you by gently batting a ping pong ball or waggling a feather.

The kittens need plenty of contact with people - not just physical contact, but just the presence of people nearby. If people walk past or sit around chatting but apparently ignoring the kittens, the kittens learn that humans aren't a threat to them. They also need to become accustomed to normal daily household sounds and activities if they are not to remain fearful of these in later life.

If you have the kittens loose in a room, spend time sitting on the floor with some food that you yourself can eat. Drop the odd morsel close to you or offer it in your fingers - if you remain still and talk gently, one or other of the kittens should pluck up the courage to snatch the titbit. As their confidence grows over several days, they will move closer in the hope of dropped titbits. Eventually they should overcome some of their nervousness and start climbing on you in case you eat all of the food without accidentally dropping any! You can now commence the stroking stage.

THE TAMING PROCESS - HANDLING

Start with the least aggressive kitten. Some tamers suggest placing a towel over it and if it stays calm, stroking it gently on the head from behind. Whether or not you use a towel, remember that if you approach from the front it may lash out in self-defence, but if it can't see your hands it may assume it is being groomed by a littermate and start to enjoy this. Repeat this several times over a few days; talking calmly at the same time. Never stare at a kitten - this is threatening. If it panics, stop stroking and talk reassuringly. Be confident; if a kitten thinks you are scared it will start to resist your advances. It is said that when a feral kitten purrs while you stroke it, the battle is half-won.

Once it remains calm during stroking, you can work on picking it up. In the wild, once a kitten leaves its mother, the only thing likely to pick it up is a predator so it will either defend itself or freeze in fear. Grip it securely by the scruff, as its mother would, and place it on your lap. Hold it securely, stroking it and talking gently. Most will try to burrow their head under your arm, many will tremble, so you must be calm and reassuring.

If it starts to panic, put it "back home" (in its basket or the kitten-pen) and go back to the stroking stage when it calms down. Keep initial handling sessions brief before putting it "back home" (where it feels safe) and offering a tasty bribe. At first you won't be able to cup one hand under its hindquarters as it will kick out. Once it accepts being picked up without panicking, you can start supporting its bottom or using two hands as you would pick up a tame kitten.

When you pick up or hold the kitten do so securely but comfortably. Don't hold it too tight or squeeze it or it will associate handling with pain. Don't hold it so loosely that it can be dropped as this will only make it more frightened. To begin with you might need to use gloves; some people prefer to exchange their heavy gauntlets for more flexible leather gloves which can be dispensed with once the kitten accepts handling.

If the kitten is unhandleable on your lap, try putting it in a top-opening wire cat carrier without any pad at the bottom. Place the cat carrier on your lap. When the kitten becomes settled in its 'safety cage' you can reach in and start stroking it or offering treats. Several sessions like this should accustom it to being on your lap and you can then dispense with the basket. If it falls asleep on your lap or wants a tummy rub - you've won!

Kittens also learn from observation and a friendly, healthy pet cat will act as a role model. If your pet purrs when stroked, the kittens may eventually come over to be stroked too. If the kittens are declared healthy you may decide to let them interact with your own people-oriented pet cats. Always be aware of the potential problem of cross-infection.

Sometimes over-cautious feral kittens must be TAUGHT how to play with things like ping-pong balls. Like all kittens they are full of energy so get them to interact with you through play - fishing-rod style toys are ideal. Also provide a scratching/climbing post; they will quickly work out what it's for.

If you are using a kitten-pen, the kitten may have to be returned there after petting-and-play sessions. Once it starts enjoying stroking and playing, it will resent "going home". Chasing it to catch it will make it fearful. It may follow a tossed toy or a food treat into the pen or onto your lap (so you can catch it). Some feral kittens panic the first time they are let out of the pen. If it becomes uncatchable, calm down, sit down and let it quieten down as well. Can it safely be left loose in the room? If you must resort to desperation methods such as tossing a towel over it or catching it in an upturned carrier, you risk undoing weeks of hard work. If you have the stamina to tire it out with energetic play it might return to its bed or your lap of its own accord!