Question:

Something is wrong with my Japanese sword's blade Also what type is it?

by Guest57724  |  earlier

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Whenever I took out the sword of it scabbard it would leave white stuff on the blade and I didn't like that so one night I washed out the scabbard with water and let it dry for a hour or so. After I thought it was dry I put the sword back in and later on I took it out to see if white stuff was on it and now it looks like this

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f259/USSRed/IMG_4979.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f259/USSRed/IMG_4977.jpg

Is it rust and what can I do to get it off

Also what type of sword is it? is it a Tachi?

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f259/USSRed/IMG_4930.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f259/USSRed/IMG_4931.jpg

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7 ANSWERS


  1. its a katana and if it was real one....(made from 1000 times folded demascus steal made from a master sword maker from japan who uses tomahagane.) it would be called "Shinken" ...but thies are priceless pices of art witch could really cut through a mans body. you probubly have a zink/aluminum alloy unsharpend sword made for iaido kata practice and not for hitting things for that would damage the blade. and the white stuff in your saya (scabberd) was wax to prevent rusting most likely so washing it out was probubly a bad idea. and im not sure if zink/aluminum alloy blades can be re firbished im sure they can look on this site.

    www.tozando.com


  2. mushin pretty much nailed it- there are sword makers that will remove the rust and "refurbish" the katana for you if it is a real blade you might want to spend the money.

    the only thing I would like to add is that choji oil is simply mineral oil mixed with cloves (99% mineral 1% clove), it is NOT better than mineral oil it is either equal or worse but such difference is completely negligible (unless you count cost- choji oil definately costs more).

    the reason for the clove oil is so mrs samurai didn't confuse the mineral oil with cooking oil giving mr. samurai gastrointestinal problems but giving us some classic comedy if they had only invented video cameras back then.

  3. Well, your sword is a katana, and all those little spots on it are oxidation/rust.  If your blade tints itself to a dark color but bot rust, then it is a mixed carbon steel blade, otherwise just steel with maybe a coating of something else.  There is nothing you can do for the carbon discoloration and there is no proper way that you can get rid of the rust on your own. If it's worth it to you I would suggest shipping it off to a polisher and letting them know about the saya.  You want to let them know about the saya because there will be rust deposits in it from the sword that will feed the erosion process whenever you sheath it again.

    Let this be your first lesson in caring for your "soul". Don't ever wash it with water or the saya. The saya is wood and sometimes bamboo and will hold water.  Also don't touch the blade as oils from your fingers and hands will erode it too. Don't get too close with your face and breathe on it and put it immediately in the saya as your breath has moisture in it.

    If it's not worth it to ship it of you can use your cleaning and polishing kit to clean the sword about once a week or so. Anytime you pull it out and use it you should clean in before putting it back.

  4. Looks like the plating has worn off, which might mean your blade was probably nickel plated at the top surface to make it gleam. Washing it with water probably removed some of the plating and exposed the metal underneath making it rust.

    As for your sword's fitting and length, it is in an uchigatana fitting so it's properly termed a katana. It can only be called a Tachi if the mounting is in a Tachi mounting with the blade facing down while strapped to your side like a cavalry saber, the length is usually also longer and curvier compared to a katana.

  5. It looks like rust but I'm not 100% positive due to the photos quality.

    Rust is the major enemy of the Japanese sword blade. The best course of action is to prevent rust rather than to have to remove it. If possible the sword should be kept at relatively constant temperature and humidity. A thin coat of a light, non-acidic lubricating oil is all that is needed. Sword supply shops sell a special oil, CHOJI OIL, for this use. It protects well and has a nice aroma also. The blade should be re-oiled occasionally to prevent the old oil from becoming gummy. Wipe the old oil off with a clean, soft, WHITE cloth or tissue paper. Don't use colored materials as the oil may cause the color to "bleed" onto the sword and stain it. Gentle wiping action is all that is required not vigorous rubbing. Don't "soak" the blade with oil, just use a very light coating. Complete sword care kits are available from several sources listed on the Japanese sword web site links page.

    By the way, your sword looks like a katana replica.

  6. It might be fake one with some coating on it.

    None of my swords ever did that and I have one that's more than 200 years old.

  7. It looks like a katana, a tachi is more curved and slightly more longer, maybe its kind of rusted.

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