Steep waves murdering me.?

Question

I recently bought a shorter board (6'6), my old board was 7'2. I've been out prob. 10 or so times with my new board, and am just getting clobbered out there. Which is fine, but for some reason I'm having a bit more trouble with some waves. On my longer board it felt like I had a bit more a 'gap' between when I could stand up. With this new board I'm getting clobbered on steep waves.

I have a blast when I catch a wave that sorta 'pushes' me into it, but on quick popups where I have a very little time frame, otherwise I get clobbered I'm finding myself just pulling back because I feel I wont make it.

Any tips? I have no problem with smaller waves, but the bigger ones I tend to get a bit scared of and pull back.

Answer 1

Not really sure from the info provided, but it sounds like you need to work on pop ups and placement in the wave. Dropping 8 inches is a big jump so learning to surf the board is part of the problem. Are you able to get up on it a t all?

also when surfing bigger stuff, it helps to drop in at an angle into the wave so you don't  have to bottom turn and gets you right on to the face

And when the wave grabs you and throws you forward, put more weight on your rear foot and bend your knee, this will keep you placed on the board and not blown off the back.

Good luck

Answer 2

hey Brian, where you from?

me I'm from Hawaii, and surfing here is what it is a blast, but if you are in the wrong place fish food.  

You are having trouble because you are use to the longer board, which is bigger, faster and more stable so you don't have to be in the pocket to take off, the smaller board you have to paddle faster.  Try taking off from in the pocket when you feel the wave pick you up face the board in the direction that you a planning on going and paddle faster that's about all you can do.  

Take it easy and  happy surfing....

Answer 3

Try using a board that has a nice square tail, this should help stabilise your landing.  :)

Answer 4

Maybe try taking off a little farther down the shoulder, the wave face shouldn't be as steep.

Answer 5

All of the above is good but one more thing you have commit yourself 110% when taking off.If you pull back a bit cos you feel you won't make it, you won't make it! Paddle hard commit and get up quick other than that it is just practice.