Surfers! What was your?

Question

First wave like?

Answer 1

its like you are flying on the water with some great moving energy pushing you to the beach with the sea spray and wind in your face. its great!

Answer 2

The most fun I have ever had. Time slows to a standstill and everything feels like a dream. It is instantly addicting and your hooked for life. Nothing will ever seem the same again. It's like heroin I guess.

Answer 3

forgettable i imagine, was over 20 years ago. Its not your first wave its your last wave that gets you hooked.

And for all these I was addicted from the first wave ppl - statistics are less then 5% of ppl who learn to surf to a standard of standing up are still surfing in a years time

Answer 4

I have to agree with Jess. Forgettable! I have been surfing since '66, and I was body surfing and body boarding before that/ However, there are one or two rides over those 42 years that I actually remember. One was riding backside on a beautiful head high left with the late summer afternoon sun sun low in the sky, giving a sort of golden aura to everything. I was riding my 7'6" Rick round tail in about 1970. What a ride. It seemed like it was going to last forever.