Surfing on hollow waves?

Question

im getting more into surfing now and im still used to nj's 3-4 foot waves that are easy to catch and aren't steep at all. But then the other day there were huge like 6 foot hollow breaking tubes waves that for me were harder to catch and very hollow and steep that went i went to get up on a wave I'd be at the top look at the wave while its breaking straight down and i fell a lot. All I'm really asking for here is for you to give me some tips on how to surf the more hollow and steep waves.

Answer 1

Surfing steep and hollow waves is not for the meek at heart. If you are going to surf steep hollow waves you better have a nice quick take off. You also have to be committed. A slow take off or a little bit of hesitation may get you a free ticket to going over the falls.

So try to get into the wave as early as possible. Be quick to your feet and stay committed.

Angling your take off will help get you in a position that will make it easier for you to make the wave. If the wave is fast and closing over you, grabbing a rail will also help you make the wave.

If you pull in and the wave is going to close out on you, you can grab the nose of the board and shove it and your body into the wave and you will pop out the back of the wave. You can also do it on a longboard , but will take alot more force...providing your board is not too thick.

Surfing steep and hollow waves can be most exhilarating experience...or it can be your worst nightmare. One thing for sure...you will get hammered...then again...you just may get the wave of our life...

Anyway...good luck



- mahalo -

Answer 2

Turtle hit it on the head. you have to take off at an angle on hollower, rounder waves. you could also try to shoulder hop some of the waves, that way you can see exactly where you are on the wave and if you are taking off too late.  

Answer 3

basically turtle said it all and theres not much else to say but paddle fast and make sure you know when and how fast to pop up

Answer 4

Assuming you are on a shortboard:

1. When you catch a wave push the nose of your board down when you stand up to aviod stalling at the top of the wave.

2. Make sure you don't drop in on anybody

3. Always paddle hard for waves

4. If a wave is closing out, dive through the back of the wave.

The Surfboard Man

http://www.thesurfboardman.com

Answer 5

I've never surfed the left coast but I can tell you if you're riding a longboard right now and trying to ride barreling steep waves with it you should probably learn how to get up on a shortboard on smaller waves first. Like turtle said, if you hesitate on a wave like that you'll just go over the falls. If you are riding a shortboard though just practice popping up faster on your board and also, don't just go for a wave. Look down the line while you're still paddling for it to see if it's going to close out (break) in front of you, that'll save you a lot of stress and a lot of paddling. Every wave is different so try surfing some other spots too that aren't as gnarly, then when you get better at popping up you'll have a lot more fun out there