Question:

Tell me everything you know about guinea pigs? (cavies) please 10 pts!

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I need some info like what they eat their nature how many can be housed together what color i should get what name i should give them how big the housing needs to be what food they eat what C&C equiptment i should buy and where do i buy them please tell me where everything is it will be greatly appreciated if you answer all or 1 question ;) -thanks in advance!-

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  1. guinea pigs are herbivores so i would give them guinea pig pellet and mix, but sometimes give them treat like vegetables but don't feed them potato because it may make them sick.

    I think that you can house as many guinea pigs as you want but if i was you i would keep the males apart because they will keep on fighting over which one will be the dominant one.

    on choosing breed i hope this will help

    http://www.abyssiniantreasures.com/Guine...

    and with the housing for the guinea pigs i recommend that if you have a back yard you should have a guinea pig house/run so they can be fit and not fat , and if you have no back yard you can use a plastic cage. It has a solid plastic base and a plastic coated wire top with a lift of lid. If you are planning to keep your guinea pigs in this way please do remember to give them a box or igloo that they can hide in.

    Thank You hope this helps!!!


  2. Adopt. don't buy.

    Start reading here http://www.guinealynx.info/healthycavy.h...

  3. I'm sorry. I don't know the answer to your question, but your name, Nabil. Nabil S. I once knew a guy named Nabil and I've been trying to contact him. Could you be him? Nabil Smith?

  4. you can get alot of different types. i personally like the orange ones. I wouldnt get a white one. they kinda look like rats. but it depends. ask the pet store if you can hold the guinea pig first, so you can get to know its personality a little bit. theres lots of websites that can help you with your knew little friend. also, guinea pigs like being in like "herds" so it's best to get another one to be it's friend. But if your planning on playing with it every day and giving it lots of attention, the there's no need to get more than one. I have one and I play with him every day, so ya. They like eating lots of fruits and veggies, and it's very healthy for them too. they can eat grass, they actually really like it, but don't let it have too much, or else he might get diareehea. Good Luck!

  5. Guinea Pigs are not actually related to pigs, they make a really cute kind of squeaky noise, they can't absorb vitamin C very well, so its important to make sure the food you feed them is specially made for Guinea pigs. They love fresh parsley and kale and any other kind of dark leafy veggies. Apples and carrots are good too. There are special treat "sticks" they can gnaw on to help keep their teeth filed down. As for color, I think it depends on what you like and same with the name. There are short haired Guinea Pigs and long haired. I always liked the short haired ones better. They need a large space. The pet stores always sell these really small cages for them, but I bought a really large airplane crate, the size a large dog would travel in, and that's what I kept mine in. I got bagged shavings and always kept their cage very clean. I also spent alot of time with mine, which made them calm and sweet and friendly. Handling them alot is important. They should have fresh water daily. There nails need to be kept trimmed. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take them to the vet periodically. They are really cool pets. I used to let mine out everyday to run around the house. Be careful tho, they will chew on wooden furniture! I love Guinea Pigs and if I had more time and space right now, I would have them again. As far as how many can you keep together, it depends on the size of cage and what s*x they are. Its pretty easy to tell! If you want baby Guinea Pigs, put male and female together! It will happen!

  6. guinea pigs are very sweet it dosent really matter what colour you should get i would say there housing needs to be about as big as a rabbits which is about as big as a medium dogs kennel i would name the guinea pig humbug or dipsy or cookie they usually eat lettuce and vegetables you should get quiet a big running area so that they dont put on to much weight some grew long hair but i think you can get that cut and you just really need a big cage for it  guinea pigs do actually play with toys so i would recommend tubes and tunnels and A nice, bright location with indirect sunlight. If you have a window that you can direct some occasional sunlight on the cage, such as morning light only, that could be good as well. Definitely avoid putting guinea pigs next to bright windows and glass doors. Do NOT put cages in closets or other small enclosed areas. if i was you i would get another 1 as guinea pigs do get a bit lonely ther love to sleep in hay and stuff like sawdust you will find also food at a pet shop and when they have been good the pet shps evn sell little chocolate sweets good luck do try and handle you pet so that it gets used to your smell and wont bite in the future and be careful not to let your guinea pig run around your home they can fit in small places and get lost if you are going to let it run in the garden put a cage around it so that it cannot escape

  7. HERE I GO!!!

    GUINEA PIG INFO...

    chooseing the right one..  If you decide to purchase two pigs, make them both immature females. Males are more active than females and grow up larger. They also have more odor. If you purchase a male and a female you will have to have the male neutered or be resigned to endless litters of baby pigs and a shortened female lifespan. Females can become pregnant as early as two months of age so it is quite common for them to be already pregnant when you purchase them at a pet shop. If no males are present, there is no need to spay a female. Spaying a female guinea pig is considerably more expensive than neutering a male.

    Houseing:   Like all animals that are eaten in the wild, guinea pigs are very uncomfortable with people and other pets hovering over them. Provide them with containers or objects that they can get into and out of sight. Guinea pigs left free to roam the house eventually get into trouble. So keep them in a cage or pen. Powder-coated cages for guinea pigs are available at most pet stores. Most are designed for one, not two, guinea pigs and many are too small.. I like to have four to six square feet of floor space for each pig - considerably more than National Research Council guidelines suggest for scientific institutions. Put a small wooden or cardboard box in the cage for the guinea pig to hide in. It is important that the cage not have a raised floor grid. These grids cause the guinea pig’s feet to become sore and inflamed. My guinea pigs never jumped, (although readers of this article report theirs do). In any case, no cage lid is required if the walls are at least 18 inches high. I do not like to keep guinea pigs in glass aquaria - they become too humid. Keep the cage in an area where temperatures range between sixty-five and seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit (18-25C). Guinea pigs handle cold quite well but they are very susceptible to heat stroke. Allow them plenty of exercise time outside of their cage. Be careful, particularly if children are involved, the most common accidents that occur are being stepped on and falling off tables. Be careful of toxic plants, electric wires and cats and dogs. Pick up guinea pigs with both hands; one round their shoulders and the other supporting their hindquarters. Be very gentle with pregnant females and youngsters.

    Bedding:  My favorite bedding is large flaked pine wood shavings. Several guinea pig breeders have taken exception to this and reported cases of liver damage associated with pine bedding. If you use pine flakes, try to select one with low aroma. These are from low-resin pine species that do not contain large amounts of aromatic organic compounds. .They can be purchased in large bales at feed stores. I try not to purchase bedding that is dusty or mouldy.. Hard wood chips are also fine for guinea pigs but they are messier. Shredded newspaper with soy inks also make excellent bedding. I do not use cedar shaving because of their strong aroma but I do not actually recall a case where cedar’s aroma was linked to a health problems. Bedding should never be allowed to get damp. Change the bedding once or twice a week.

    Diet:    I like to feed mine timothy hay, kale, spinach, collard and turnip greens as well. Iceberg lettuce is valueless but romaine lettuce – especially the outer leaves is a good source of nutrients. and of corse you can go to a local pet store and but the bags of food there. my guinea pig like the chunky ones, but some of them just like the regular. you should change there water EVERY day!! do NOT feed them... celery!! the strings will kill them..

    GENDER: BOYYY!!! there the best even know they smell.. the only reason they smell is if u dont clean there cage. only get one..

    weird fact: there kind is found in spain.. they can swim.. they love being played with.. they get eaten in spain..  



    COLOR!!

    i think you should get a  black or brown or gray guinea pig.. there cool.. or get orange black gray and brown guinea pig

    names; black: iggy brown: twix gray: donkey all the colors together: i have no clue but some waky name.. good luck!!!!!♥♥♥♥♥ (:  

  8. Guinea pigs eat:

    - Parsley - curly or plain (high in calcium)

    - Cilantro / Chinese Parsley / Corriander greens

    - Celery leaves

    - Collard greens

    - Mustard greens / Leaf Mustard

    - Water Cress

    - Garden Cress

    - Swiss Chard, Red Chard

    - Beet greens

    - Spinach (feed in moderation, linked to formation of kidney & bladder stones)

    - Carrot tops / leaves

    - Peas in pods, Pea Shoots (not dried)

    - Dandelion greens

    - Grass - wheat, winter rye (grown in pots from seed)

    - Kale - curly or plain

    - Broccoli, Broccolini (stems are liked better than flowers)

    - Broccoli Rabe / Rabe / Rapini

    - Cauliflower / Broccoflower

    - Brussels Sprouts

    - Cabbage

    - Red Cabbage

    - Tuscan Cabbage / Cavolo Nero

    - Savoy Cabbage

    - Kohlrabi leaves

    - Bell / Sweet Peppers - red, green, yellow (not hot or chile)

    - Tomato (sores around mouth can develop; leaves poisonous; artificially grown can be low in vit C)

    - Tamarillo (leaves poisonous)

    - Orange (caution - sores around lips can develop)

    - Tangerine / Mandarin (caution - sores around lips can develop)

    - Grapefruit (caution - sores around lips can develop)

    - Lemon, Lime (home-grown best, otherwise feed cautiously)

    - Cantaloupe Melon

    - Honeydew Melon

    - Currants - yellow, red or black (leaves also edible)

    - Gooseberries

    - Strawberries

    - Kiwi Fruit

    - Mango

    - Guava

    - Feijoa / Pineapple Guava

    - Papaya / Paw Paw / Tree Melon

    - Persimmon - american or oriental

    - Rosehip

    LOW Vitamin C foods:

    - Hay - timothy, meadow, alpine and others (must always be available)

    - Alfalfa - green or dried (high calcium & calories - good for youngsters, pregnant & nursing sows)

    - Romaine Lettuce

    - Lettuces - red, green, butter, Boston and other (avoid iceberg)

    - Frisee Lettuce

    - Arugula / Rocket / Roquette / Rucola

    - Green Endive

    - Belgian Endive

    - Radicchio / Italian Chicory

    - Treviso Radicchio

    - Salad mix (without iceburg lettuce)

    - Artichoke

    - Asparagus

    - Anise

    - Basil

    - Dill

    - Mint

    - Thyme

    - Chives (caution, feed in moderation)

    - Green Onion tops (caution, feed in moderation)

    - Green Leek tops (caution, feed in moderation)

    - Sweet Onions (caution, feed in moderation)

    - Celery stalks (cut into small pieces)

    - Corn on the cob (strings, leaves & stalks are edible too)

    - Green Beans in pods / String Beans (not dried)

    - Carrots (feed in moderation, vit A in carrots said to cause liver problems)

    - Yam / Sweet Potato (high in vit A? - leaves edible)

    - Beets

    - Celery Root / Celeriac

    - Kohlrabi bulbs

    - Radishes (if mild)

    - Turnip

    - Parsnip

    - Rutabaga

    - Parsley root

    - Cucumber (fresh only, not pickled)

    - Squash - acorn, banana, butterhorn, spagetti, and others (feed in moderation)

    - Zucchini

    - Pumpkin

    - Pineapple - fresh (sores around lips & mouth can develop)

    - Apple (avoid seeds; if too tart, sores around lips & mouth can develop)

    - Crabapple

    - Pear

    - Asian Pear

    - Plum, Prune (dried high in sugar - as treat only)

    - Nectarine

    - Apricot

    - Peach

    - Cherries (remove pits)

    - Cranberries (whole fruit, not concentrate or juice)

    - Raspberries

    - Blackberries

    - Bilberries

    - Blueberries

    - Watermelon (can cause diarrhea - high water content)

    - Banana (feed in great moderation - can cause constipation)

    - Passion Fruit / Granadilla

    - Grapes (in moderation, high in sugar)

    - Figs (dried high in sugar - as treat only)

    - Dates (dried high in sugar)

    EDIBLE wild grasses, plants and herbs:

    (make sure you know what you are picking! be sure to pick from places free of contaminants such as pesticides , exhaust fumes or animal urine ; pick plants that are healthy looking, without insect damage, fungus spots, breakage, or wilting)

    - Grass (common grasses are edible, avoid ornamental grasses)

    - Clover (Trifollium repens or Trifolium pratense)

    - Dandelion (Teraxacum officinale) - pick leaves, stems, flowers (even root OK)

    - Anise (Pimpinella anisum)

    - Blackberry leaves (Rubus plicatus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots

    - Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - leaves and flowers

    - Caraway (Carum carvi)

    - Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis)

    - Chickweed (Stellaria media)

    - Cleavers / Stickyweed / Goosegrass / Bedstraw (Galium aparine)

    - Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)

    - Cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaeae) - berries, leaves in moderation

    - Cow Parsley (Anthiscus sylvestris)

    - Dog Rose (Rosa canina) - ripe fruits

    - Duckweed (Lemna minor) - aquatic

    - Fennel (Foeniculum capillaceum)

    - Field Violet / Wild Pansy (Viola tricolor)

    - Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)

    - Lemon Mint / Melissa (Melissa officinalis)

    - Linden / Lime Tree (Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos) - flowers with pale yellow leaflets

    - Miner's Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata)

    - Pepermint (Mentha piperita)

    - Plantain (Plantago major or Plantago lanceolata)

    - Raspberry leaves (Rubus idaeus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots

    - Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)

    - Shepherd's Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)

    - Silverweed (Potentilla anserina)

    - Vetch (Vicia x)

    - Yarrow (Achllea millefolium)

    - Whortleberry / Heidelberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) - berries, leaves in moderation

    - Wild Chamomile (Matricaria chammomilla)

    - Wild Strawberry (Fragaria vesca) - berries and leaves

    and they also need hay and dry food.

    You can house as many together as you want. But one thing is for certain - DO NOT KEEP ONE ON ITS OWN. They are herd animals and are meant to be living in at least pairs.

    They are very alert animals and will run from you whilst they are young. As they get older, they become tamer.

    Colour depends on your preference. Also, hair type you should consider.

    Hair types include: abyssinian, sheltie, peruvian, coronet, alpaca, merino, crested, smooth....etc, etc.

    Colours include: black, buff, cream, white, golden.....etc, etc.

    There are also breed patterns: agouti, dutch..... etc, etc.

    Here is a website to help with names: http://www.bowwow.com.au/

    C&C cages are the best. Definitely get one. You can make it whatever size (bigger the better!) and shape you want. They are cheap and easy to build. You need Coroplast (or linoleum) and grids.

    PLEASE rescue your guinea pigs. Get them from an animal shelter. DO NOT Get them from a petshop or a breeder.

    Good luck, hope I've helped.

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