The Bearded Dragon as a pet..?

Question

I am looking to get a bearded dragon as a pet however am curious about how they act and how they should be handled. Anyone with personal experiences with the bearded dragon is welcome to comment. Information about their behavior towards humans, living conditions, diet, and maintenance (lighting/heat) is primarily what I am concerned about. Thanks to all who post!

Answer 1

Behavior Towards Humans

If you handle your dragon regularly they will be a great companion. I didn't handle mine as much as I should have when he was young, so it's kind of a hassle to get him out of his cage, but once he's out he's happy to chill on my shoulder, cling to my shirt, or explore on his lizard leash.

Living Conditions

I have mine in a 40 gallon breeder tank(36in long x 18in wide x 18in tall) I got at petsmart if thats what you mean, I would even go as far as to say that this is the smallest tank you should ever use for a full grown dragon. Babies can start out in a 20 gallon tank.

Diet

When young the majority of their diet should be live food - crickets mainly but there are a variety of other bugs that can be used as treats and stuff, the rest of their diet would be fresh greens. As an adult, majority should be fresh greens with the rest live food.

Maintenance

Bearded Dragons are very hardy animals, even a mistake that could be disastrous for other species likely wouldn't faze a dragon. I have a single heat lamp(75 watt bulb) that keeps the temperature perfect, it's on 12 hours a day on a timer, and at night my room stays warm enough to need no other heat sources.

Good luck! Dragons really do make great pets!

Here's a very good caresheet for them, it covers EVERYTHING:

http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

Answer 2

I have two males... they're independent, but friendly. They have a lot of really cute ways about them (for example, to show dominance over another dragon, they bob their heads). You need a 50 gallon tank minimum for full grown beardies, a uv light and a heat light, a timer (set 14/10- day/ night) I keep a rock under the heat light because the heat from the rock helps with digestion when they lay on it, sand (sifted for babies) and a fresh water dish ( they need to be kept hydrated). They eat worms and crickets (dont give any lizard super worms tho, they bite)... crickets should be feed fruits, vegetables or cricket food for 24 hours before given to dragons... and the dragons can eat SOME fruits and vegetables. Like all lizards, they require a lot of care to simulate their habitate and keep them healthy.

Answer 3

I am sorry to tell you that but those are very exotic pets and hard to find I don't with there is any law against  having the dragon, good luck anyway

Answer 4

i had a bearded dragon for a while. It got to be about 13 inches long. I fed it ledduce sometimes canned veggies. When they are little they mostly are herbavores, but as they get older they like to eat mealworms or crickets. get smaller ones when he is a baby. They love to come out of their cage and run around. be careful of other pets. ( I found out the hard way... minus one tail temperily lol) Mine loved to sit by the window, were it was warm and sunny. He only flared out his beard once when i dropped him accidentally, but after that he was fine. He got to the point where he could sit on my lap and just fall asleep. Make sure that u get a larger cage with lots of sand. He liked tto dig alot. Have some climbing toys in there. In the beginning, mine was scared to climb, but the got used to it.  I kept the light on all day and it turned off auto at night. I kep the heat around 92 degrees plus or minus. ohh and when the dragon gets bigger, be careful of its nails. THey can scratch.

hope these sites helps!!

http://www.essortment.com/all/careofbear...

http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html

Answer 5

the first answer is very wrong you can go to almost any pet store to find them ok i have to bearded dragons i i have them in a cage i built which is about 75 gallons the lighting they should have a UVB bulb which can be very expensive i have seen them go for 14 bucks but at petco petsmart they are about 30 to 40 dollars they are vey calm except one of mine who is constantly trying to get out other than that when you handle them they should be handled with care never grab by the tail with every lizard they dont bite well i,ll just give you a care sheet.Family: Agamidae

Origin: Australia

Size: Adult males up to 2 feet in length (including tail)

Diet: Omnivorous: Chopped meat, crickets, pinky mice, earthworms, leafy greens, squash; may want separate feeding tank

Water: Water dish, droplets, misting

Terrarium: 10-15 gallon aquarium for hatchlings; minimum of 55-60 gallon for adults

Substrate: Indoor/outdoor carpet, newspaper

Decoration: Hidebox; provide rocks and branches for climbing and basking

Lighting: Fluorescent full spectrum lighting with UVB

Temperatures: 78-88°F; basking area of 95-100°F; night time temperatures in the 70's

Compatibility: Typically social; bearded dragons of similar size can be housed together, but should be monitored; appear to enjoy interaction with humans

Sexing: Males have larger heads, darker beards, and enlarged femoral pores

Life Expectancy: 10 years

Bearded Dragons originate in Australia. The most common species in the pet industry is the Inland Bearded Dragon, Pogona vitticeps, which was formerly called Amphibolurus vitticeps. The Inland Bearded Dragon is sometimes referred to as the Central, or Yellow-headed Bearded Dragon. Other members of the Pogona genus include:

Pogona barbata - Common Bearded

P. henrylawsoni - Rankin's

P. minima - Western

P. minor - Dwarf

P. mitchelli - Northwest Bearded

P. nullarbor - Nullarbor

P. microlepitoda

Natural environment

The Inland Bearded Dragon lives in the arid woodlands and deserts of central Australia. It spends much of its waking hours in bushes and trees, and is also found basking on rocks. When it is extremely hot, the bearded dragon will burrow underground. The bearded dragon is diurnal and an omnivore. It forages for food such as insects, small lizards and mammals, fruit, flowers, and other plant material during the day time.

Physical characteristics

The Bearded Dragon is tan to yellow in color. It is called "bearded" because of the dragon's ability to flare out the skin in the throat region when it is threatened or territorial. Its body has a flattened appearance, which becomes even more pronounced if the dragon is alarmed. There are spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body. The head is wedge-shaped, and the Bearded Dragon has a tail that is almost as long as the body.

It is difficult to distinguish males from females among hatchlings and juveniles. When they become adults, sexual differences become more apparent. The males generally have larger heads and larger, darker beards. The femoral pores of males also help to distinguish them from females.

Habitat

Enclosure: Cages should be secure with tight-fitting lids. The sides should be smooth to avoid abrasions of the nose. Wire cages do not retain heat and also can result in foot and nose trauma. Having a proper substrate in the cage (see below), making sure the cage is large enough, and using plastic coated wire mesh can lessen the possibility of injury.

Cages should be simple in design to facilitate cleaning. Cages made of wood must be sealed with polyurethane or a similar waterproofing agent and joints caulked to allow cleaning and disinfection. Fresh polyurethane must be allowed to dry several days and the cage thoroughly aired out prior to placing a reptile in it or toxicity may result.

Aquariums can be used to house Bearded Dragons. Hatchlings may be kept in a 10-15 gallon aquarium; adults require a minimum of at least a 55-60 gallon aquarium.

Substrate: The substrate is what lines the bottom of the cage. An ideal substrate is one that is inexpensive, aesthetically pleasing, easily cleaned, absorbent, and digestible if swallowed. Substrate can be flat newspaper, sheets of brown wrapping paper (the kind that comes in rolls), AstroTurf, or indoor/outdoor carpet. Do NOT use cedar shavings, gravel, crushed corn cob, kitty litter, wood shavings, or potting soil that contains vermiculite, pesticides, fertilizer, or wetting agents.

Landscaping and 'Furniture': Branches for climbing and basking under the secondary heat source should be secure. These branches should be of various sizes and not ooze pitch or have a sticky sap; oak works very well. The branches should be as wide as the width of the Bearded Dragon. Boards covered with indoor/outdoor carpet also make good climbing posts. Flat-bottomed, smooth rocks are a good addition to the habitat, and can help wear down the toenails, which in captivity, must be clipped often.

Reptiles like a place where they can hide. This could be an empty cardboard box, cardboard tube, or flower pot. The hiding place should provide a snug fit and should be high in the enclosure. If your Bearded Dragon does not use its hiding place, try a different one or move it to a different location.

Appropriate plants in the enclosure can provide humidity, shade, and a sense of security. They also add an aesthetic quality to the enclosure. Be sure they are nontoxic. Dracaena, Ficus benjamina, and hibiscus are good choices. Be sure the plants have not been treated with pesticides and the potting soil does not contain vermiculite, pesticides, fertilizer, or wetting agents. Washing the plant with a water spray and watering it thoroughly several times to the point where water runs out of the bottom of the pot, should help remove toxic chemicals, which may have been used. Keeping purchased plants in a different part of the house for a while before putting them in the enclosure will also be helpful.

Temperature

Bearded Dragons are cold-blooded animals from arid woodland and desert environments, and require supplemental heat for proper digestion. They prefer 78-88°F during the day and temperatures in the 70's at night. If a reptile is cold, it cannot properly digest its food and is more likely to become ill. Lizards like a temperature gradient so if they are cold, they can move to a warmer part of the cage and vice versa. Place a good quality thermometer in the cage at the level the Bearded Dragon spends most of its time so you can monitor the temperature.

Primary heat source: A primary heat source is necessary to keep the temperature of the entire cage within the proper range. A series of incandescent lights over the cage is one of the best heat sources. At night, these lights will need to be turned off and another heat source may be needed depending on the ambient temperature. A heating pad placed under the cage, ceramic infrared heat emitters or panels, or more expensive nocturnal reptile incandescent light bulbs which produce heat, but little visible light, can be used. For larger enclosures, a space heater or separate room thermostat can be used to keep the room at the appropriate temperature. Fire alarms should be placed in rooms where lights or other heat sources are used.

Secondary heat source: A secondary heat source creates more heat in specific areas of the cage to provide a temperature gradient. To best supply this gradient, the secondary heat source should cover only 25-30% of the surface of the enclosure. For adults, the secondary heat source could be a 30-75 watt incandescent bulb in a ceramic base, securely mounted where the animal can not touch it. There are also special 'basking lights' available. Either type of light should shine down on a particular basking area from outside the cage. The temperature under the light in the area in which the Bearded Dragon would be basking should be 95-100°F. Hatchlings housed in smaller aquariums will require lights of lower wattage, or the aquarium temperature may become too warm very quickly. DO NOT USE HOT ROCKS AS HEAT SOURCES.

Light

Visible white light: In addition to heat, incandescent bulbs also provide visible white light. A combination of fluorescent and incandescent light fixtures can be used to provide visible light to all areas of the enclosure.

Glass cages, even those with a screen top, should NEVER be used when providing access to natural sunlight. Glass cages will trap heat and can cause fatally high temperatures.

Ultraviolet light: In addition to heat and white light, Bearded Dragons must have access to natural sunlight for good health. This is because they need a certain spectrum of ultraviolet (UV) light called UVB. UVB is necessary for the Bearded Dragon to make Vitamin D. No artificial light is as good as sun in providing UVB, so when the outside temperature on a sunny day is over 70°F, place your Bearded Dragon outside in a secure screen or wire cage with a locking door. Provide some shade and a hiding place within the enclosure. UV rays do not penetrate window glass so Bearded Dragons placed in a sunny window are not receiving UV light.

If a Bearded Dragon does not have access to bright sunlight, special black lights are used to provide the UVB light. These black lights for reptiles are NOT the black light tubes used for lighting fluorescent minerals, posters, and psychedelic paraphernalia (often called BLB lights). Fish/aquarium and plant 'grow' lights, either incandescent or fluorescent, do NOT produce UVB. You need a black light which emits light in the 290-320 nanometer range. Lights producing only UVB, and lights which produce a combination of UVB and white lights are available. ZooMed's reptile or iguana lights, and Durotest's Vita-Lite are two good products. These UVB light sources should be replaced every 6 months.

Answer 6

bearded dragons love to be handled and love to run around on the bed. they are usually not aggressive unless they are scared or hurt. they get to know their keeper after a while and look forward to feedings and handling's. here a care sheet one them http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/ca...

hope this helps=)

Answer 7

Here is a video about care and such:

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-care...

Answer 8

katgirl is wrong they are pretty much in any petstore that sells reptiles will carry bearded dragons. i actually own one and shes pretty mellow and doesnt mind being held but from what i hear males are more animated that females and do the whole head bobbing and beard thing when they see themselves in ther mirror or other bearded dragons but i never really see any of that with my female she usually just sits around and watches everything thats moving around

Answer 9

I have a bearded dragon. I consider them to be intermediate as juveniles or beginner as adults. Try to get the biggest one that you can find. They do "flare up" as a defense mechanism. they are fine to handle once they get used to you.

I would recommend going to repticzone.com they helped me w/ my bearded dragon, my leopard gecko, and my future crested gecko.

This is a great care sheet from repticzone.com. http://www.repticzone.com/caresheets/48....

I have no affiliation with them, I just like it there so much. I may post a pic of mine tomorrow.

Answer 10

bearded dragons are mellow and curious lizards they can be handled and they are extremely friendly towardm humans you can handle them but make sure when you ;ick them up you support their whole body they need at least a 55 gallon tank with decor such as rocks, drift wood, some fake plants, and a substrate dont use sand (your lizard can leap for a cricket and miss and end up witha mouthful of sand and if swallowed the sand can cause impaction) try to use dirt that says it can be swallowed or papertowels. they eat a lot of insects as a juvenile and some vegetables and a little fruit.  when they are adults they eat a lot more vegetables a some insects and a little fruit and pinky mice can be fed but not often. Only certain vegetables should be fed, for a complete list you can look on care sheets for bearded dragons.  for maintence once every week completley clean the cage with a mild soap and wash it and clean all the decor and replace the subsrtae and scoop the f***s out each time you see some.  the lighting should have on basking light around 100 degrees farenheit and a night light but for exact temps you should check out a bearded dragon care sheet.

For more info read a lot of care sheets for bearded dragons

Answer 11

They are excellent first time lizards to own, but do need a few special requirements to remain healthy.  Here is a copy of my care sheet...followed by some links for complete care details.

Bearded Dragons



Beardies should have at least a 40 gallon breeder tank.  Breeder tanks are wider rather than being tall.  This allows for more floor space.  The larger the tank, the better for your beardie.  Mine is in a 75 gallon.  Do not house beardies together...fighting and domination are common.   These lizards are solitary animals and do not need companionship.  

Do not use sand or other loose substrate on the bottom of the tank.  The risk of intestinal impaction is very real and very common.  Also, loose substrate allows for the quick growth of bacteria and harbors parasites.  It is difficult to clean well and usually smells before long.  Good choices for substrate are non-adhesive shelf liner, which is rubbery, cheap, easy to clean, and looks great.  This is what I use in my lizard tanks.  Other choices include reptile carpet and ceramic tile cut-to-fit.  Sand is NOT natural!  In the wild beardies are not forced to live, eat, and p**p all in a confined small space.  

You must have a heat lamp and a way to regulate temperatures.  The easiest way to provide this is to use a reflector dome with a regular household light bulb.  You can change the wattage to increase or decrease heat as needed.  Plug the heat lamp into a thermostat (they sell these for reptile lamps) or a dimmer switch.  This way the temp can be carefully regulated.  Baby beardies need 105F and adults 100F.  Use a digital probe thermometer to measure the basking temp.  These are sold as indoor/outdoor thermometers in most garden departments.  Set it to “outdoor” and place the probe on the basking platform. You cannot use stick on or dial thermometers, as these only measure air temps and not basking temps.  They can be off by more than 20F!  If the temps are too cold or too hot, you’ll end up with a sick and stressed dragon.  Place the heat bulb over one end of the tank so the other end can be the cool end.  The beardie can self-regulate his temperature this way by moving from one end to the other.  Most beardies spend a good part of their days basking.  A basking platform can either be anything the beardie can climb onto to bask.  I prefer the artificial logs or bridges, as they are easy to clean.  

Beardies must have a UVB bulb!  These look like fluorescent bulbs that fit into fixtures made for them.  The larger the better.  These bulbs must be within 12 inches of the basking spot to be effective.  Both heat and UVB bulbs should be on for 12 hours a day.  It is best to use timers to accomplish this as they allow for the creation of a natural day/night cycle.  Good UVB bulbs are Repti-sun 10.0 or Repti-glo 8.0.  These bulbs should be changed every 6 months as they lose potency long before the light gives out.  

Feeding a variety of insects is always best.  In the wild they will eat up to 50 different types of insects.  Good choices include crickets, superworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, hornworms and occasionally wax worms (high in fat).  Avoid mealworms as they are too high in chitin (outer shell) and can cause impactions.  All insects must be properly “gutloaded” before being used as food.  This means providing correct food and water or moisture for them.  All insects fed must be no larger than the space between the beardies eyes.  If the prey is too large, this can lead to impaction and possible paralysis!

Salads must also be provided.  Several greens and vegies should be in each salad.  For a complete list of safe recommended vegies, see the Beautiful Dragons website below under the “Nutrition” link.

Provide your beardie with a small bowl of water.  Do not use a large bowl as this will raise the humidity too high in the tank, which can lead to upper respiratory problems.  

Beardies benefit from bathing and soaking.  This not only helps with shedding, it is a good way to keep him hydrated.  Simply use a large Rubbermaid container.  Fill it to beardie shoulder height with warm water and place the beardie in it.  Some beardies love water and others never learn to enjoy a bath.  Let him soak for 10-15 minutes.  Baby beardies can be soaked 3 times a week (they dehydrate much more quickly) and adults every 1-2 weeks.  Daily misting with a squirt bottle is also beneficial.  

Beardies should have a stool sample checked by an experienced reptile vet twice a year.  They can carry a lot of parasites which can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and illness.  Some of these parasites, such as coccidia, can never be totally eliminated.  Under stress their numbers can rise and cause problems.  Your vet can advise you when treatment is needed.

For more info on care, health and feeding, please check out my favorite sites:

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co...

http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BD...

http://www.beardeddragon.org/

http://www.bearded-dragons.com/tips/