Question:

Tile Re Grouting * * * Advice Please?

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Working up the nerve (and energy!) to re-grout my ceramic tile kitchen floor. It's only about 4 years old, but I suspect it was a

"bad batch" of grout. It was done professionally. Tile is great, grout is awful. What type of grout gives the smoothest finish? ANY other tips/advice is very much appreciated. Thank you!

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  1. You don t mention why it s a bad grout job. Is it uneven ? Is it uneven in the coloring?  Most above advice is good but make sure you take out at least 3/4 of the grout out so you ll get a proper bond w/ new grout.. This is also VERY dusty and time consuming if using a dremal or same sort of tool.. 1 other possibility if grout is just uneven in color.. Or just "stained" from normal day to day use.. Look into staining the grout a color.. Even though slow and time consuming it will work(because I did mine)so is digging out the grout and redoing it.. Plus you don t take a chance of chipping tile because grout will stick to tile and you can chip an edge by remove the grout even being  just as care-full as can be..  So think your options and GL


  2. although it's been a long time since I've done actual tile, the grout I use the most for my projects for a smooth finish is the pre-mix synthetic from home depot.  Using a grout removal tool does save a lot of time if you're wanting to salvage the tile (as it sounds you want to).

  3. Good for you. This is actually a fairly easy job. Just stop by a good flooring store. They can set you up with everything you need.

    Do yourself a favor and seal the grout good after it dries.

  4. I tile every day of my life, and remediate tile as well.

       A dremel with a Diamond bit will work, but you'd likely be better off with a Roto Zip. More power, less chance of burning up the tool. You should also consider a small, hand grout saw, for edges, or hard to reach areas. The tools can be set to depth, but caution is a keyword. The Diamond bit will cut/grind the grout, but will also do the same to the tile.

      FEIN actually makes the best tool for the job, though pricey. Multimaster. It Oscillates.

      I'll assume that your tile was set in a standard 1/4 grout line, or perhaps even 1/8. I use a Poly blend SANDED grout, also a standard for up to 1/2 inch lines. I mix to a consistency of mashed potato, and in small batches. Agitating by stirring, will probably add air bubbles, while too much water degrades the bonding agents.

       SMOOTH is the effect of the proper amount of water versus dry grout, and NEVER truly smooth as Marble anyway. What matters is that proper blend of water and powder, a thorough mixing, SOME allow some time for the various vehicles to activate, and certainly work in small areas at a time, with the Rubber squeegie diagonal to the lines, and Clean asap with a proper grout sponge, perhaps in as many as 3 steps, Just damp, then as the grout sets you can increase the moisture, finally leaving it alone to dry to dust. You do NOT need any store sold grout dust removers. Sponging should also be done in diagonals/angles to the lines. The intent is to keep the grout as flush as possible with at least, the top, compressed edge on the piece of tile.

       Obviously too, many will suggest sealers, and while I have little faith in them, I suppose they have some modest purpose. The issue is as much to keep the floor clean after, and to seal it once means sealing on a regular basis after.

    Steven Wolf

    Just my two "sense"

  5. Also get a grout sealer to apply after your new grout is dry.That will help prevent stains later. lf you mix the grout  yourself , mix it to the consistantsy of cake batter. Apply grout at a 45 degree angle to the joints back and forth, don't apply in the direction of the joints.Clean tiles as you go, but bear in mind , as they dry, they will have a film , do that several times. Good Tip: Get a burlap bag to do the final cleaning after its all dry, they will shine right up.

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