Trying to find a good Bit....?

Question

I have an Appy/Paint gelding that i used to ride in a snaffle but while running it is too hard to stop him with that bit. I tried a bit from my neighbor that had shanks and worked well ( I didnt have to use a tie down with it) but it cutt up the sides of his mouth. Right now I am riding in a hackamore with a twisted bit.... it seems to be working but i am unsure if i like the hackamore i herd they can be harsh... any opinions, suggestions??

Answer 1

What activities do you use your horse for exactly... that way you know what bit to use that will suit you both for what your doing.....

If he is not stopping  this might help

Ill give you the link to charmayne james website

she is a seven time world champion barrel racer and she explains about different bits that will help you for different things...

http://www.charmaynejames.com/store/cate...

good luck!!!

Answer 2

It sounds like your gelding needs to go back to the basics!  You shouldn't have to rely solely on a bit for brakes, you should be able to stop your horse in a halter if the need arises.

If you have access to an arena, it would be ideal.  If not, find a place that has good even ground free of holes and big rocks that you can lope big circles in without worrying about wire fences.

Here are the exercises:

Long trot in big circles in both directions as long as it takes for your horse to start wanting to either step into a canter or slow into a walk.  Don't let him change gaits, and don't stop yet, either.  Go around a good three or four more times at the same speed.  Now your stop will be a reward to him, as he's getting tired.  When you decide YOU want to stop, make sure your body is in the right position and conveying to him that you are going to stop going forward.  Sit low and on the backs of your pockets, round your lower back and let out your breath.  Push your feet forward, and relax, all the while saying "whooooooooooa" to him. Slowly start to pull back on the reins, don't just snatch them up and start pulling.  Keep in mind your goal here is to not have to use them at all!   It might be a bit bumpy or abrupt, but as soon as he stops, let him just sit and relax.  Then just ride around in the arena, with no definite pattern, and randomly ask him for a whoa.  When he does, as him to back up a few steps as soon as you can, so that you almost go straight from forward to backward.  This will make him start thinking of backing up instead of stopping, so he has to completely stop with his forward motion.  Do these drillls rather frequently at first (hopefully daily!) and then just do them randomly or when he seems to slip up and start falling into old habits again.

Answer 3

Hackamores don't have bits...

Answer 4

This horse i know used a snaffle and developed a hard mouth because she hates to listen to people so we put her on a happy mouth, she's happier now. It's softer in thier mouths.

Answer 5

I used cub bits on my mares and gelding because they're less harsh, and my gelding had a sensitive mouth. The part that goes in the horses mouth is coated with rubber and they make a u shape (or n if turned the other way). Make sure you have the right size bit and the bridle is adjusted right, that is usually the reason for them throwing their heads.

Good luck & please don't use bits with shanks anymore :(

Answer 6

bit resistance is shown through a horse running through a bit, staying behind the bit, holding their heads too high or low, chomping at the bit, sticking their toungue out - just about anything that isn't calmly holding the bit in it's mouth waiting for a cue about what to do next should be considered bit resistance.  If a horse is resisting the bit, they aren't listening to what you're trying to tell them.

Let's assume you know how to handle a horse and properly communicate using the bit.

The bit is nothing more than a communication tool - moving to a more severe bit will not correct problems, although it may seem to at first, the end result will be worse problems.  

You should not have to use unnatural tools like tie downs to properly communicate - a well, trained horse goes well in about anything - but until they are well trained, they will not go well in anything.

Before I suggest a bit to try, let me tell you the old vaquero way of breaking a horse to the bit.

First, take your finger, place it on the bony part of your gum behind your teeth - press down, and walk around.  How long can you walk around until it gets uncomfortable?  I would think quite a while you'd find.

Now, take your finger, place it in the middle of your tongue and press down - then walk around.  How long before this becomes uncomfortable and you even may gag?  It doesn't take long does it?

A snaffle bit of any type works on this principle - the break in the bit collapses, causing a point that is driven into the horse's tongue to reinforce a message you are trying to give.  If you are not communicating correctly - you have too heavy hands without the ability to release at the proper time, the bit is ill-used and the horse learns to avoid or resist it somehow.

This bit properly used, requires a gradual pull or lift to communicate what you're trying to tell the horse to do - immediately upon the horse's slightest compliance, one releases this bit taking off the pressure and thereby reinforcing proper response by the horse.

If the horse stops, begins to turn, whatever you are asking and you're still pulling on the bit - he is confused about what you're asking because he's not being rewarded for doing the right thing.

With that all said, here's how the old vaguero's train:

They start a 2-3 year old with a snaffle bit, very cautious teaching the basic communications of stop, go, turn, flexion, etc. by use of that bit.  Between 3-4 they go to a bosal (a nosepiece without a bit to allow the teeth of the bit path to mature.  They speak to the horse by pressure on the nose rather than in the mouth, further teaching it to respond properly to different cues.  At maybe 6 the horse is put in a two-rein.  Some type of easy bit and a thinner (pencil) bosal.  The rider cues the horse with the bosal, if the proper response is not given to a cue, more pressure is applied which engages the bit mouthpiece - when the horse complies, the pressure is immediately released.

This is how "lightness" is built - by properly encouraging a quicker response.  The end result in a well trained vaguero horse would be a bit with no tongue pressure - and a high port.  These bits work by moving on the bars of the mouth to communicate - it only takes a slight movement to produce results.  Therefore the bit is only engaged in nearly microscopic movements to get the proper reaction, not requiring the cathedral or port to touch the horse's palate.

You must find a bit the horse is comfortable holding in his mouth, then you must start from square one building flexion and a communication means between yourself.  There are many, many books and video's on the subject you can learn from as well as clinics and trainers who will give lessons to build your ability to properly use your hands and body to communicate.

The best riders don't require bits - their body and seat communicate to the horse what movements are expected of him.  The worst riders require big, mechanical means to stop and control a horse.

I would suggest checking out the Myler bits - your local tack dealer may have a rental program for these bits and they should have available a book and DVD combo which will teach you the mechanics of bits and how their work.

The Myler bits are made with the comfort of the horse first and foremost in mind.  A comfortable, moist mouth is most ready to accept a cue.  I would suggest starting with a comfort snaffle - perhaps one with hooks as these can be used as a normal d-ring snaffle without any leverage at all or they can be used with the hooks engaged and allow about a half-inch of leverage if necessary for the horse.  Mylers also have created a combination bit that works much like the Two rein I described above used by the Vaqueros which might be helpful in teaching the horse to be light in the bit, but the user must be well educated in proper handling of this bit.

Short shanks are better for "heavy handed" riders (ones that aren't so quick to release and reward) as they engage slowly allowing time for a cue to get to the horse and it to respond for the rider to release.  The longer the shanks, the quicker the bit (picture more leverage) which should only be used by the most adept riding hands.

Pain does not equal control - understanding equals control.

Good luck!

Answer 7

you can continue to use that shanked bit if you use bit gaurds or you buy a new one. a hackamore is as harsh as the riders hands and how tight the chain/ strap is. maybe try a jr. cowhorse bit.