Tubes vs tubeless: pros and cons?

Question

im getting a specialized enduro which has tubless tires installed. what are the pros and cons to this system?

Answer 1

I went tubeless and then went back.  I used Stan's tubes conversion kit, which some other people love, but I hated it.  The tire "burped" off the side when landing jumps and caused more trouble than tubes.  So I switched to 2.3 tires and DH tubes and I had no more trouble with pinch flats.  

Since you have it already, I say stick with tubeless unless it turns out to not be working.  You can try Stan's tubeless sealant if you're having some trouble.

Answer 2

I'm told "once you go tubeless, you'll never go back".  You can run very low tire pressure without getting pinch flats.  Also the racers love them because they save a couple of grams.  They aren't as simple as tires with tubes to patch (but still doable, not like tubular).  Also, you are supposed to have tubeless specific rims and tires (though with Stan's conversion I don't think you need either).  Replacement tires are a bit expensive and somewhat limited.  I'd say if your bike comes with them, just stick with them.

Answer 3

The main pro is you can run the tires at lower than (tube) pressure and get traction benefits without the risk of pinch flats.

Cons include: they are hard to install; may be heavier than a tube system, need expensive rims designed for it (you are getting those so not applicable) or to adapt existing rims, can lose air overnight unexpectedly; tires are more expensive; if run with sealant you need to be sure it is compatible with your tires (some dissolve certain tires!); and, finally you need to carry a tube anyway since fixing a tubeless leak (they are still prone to puncture flats) in the field is not easy.

See a good review at the link.

Answer 4

Tubular wheels have tubes sewn inside and then glued to the rim. I find some of the lightest wheels are tubular and you can achieve really high psi (less rolling resistance). As mentioned, you can ride them for a short distance even if you get a puncture. My only concern with tubulars is that when my club races, if you do get a flat, changing them on the course is difficult since have to first pry them off the wheel since they are glued.

Clincher or tires with "tubes" are cheaper and more common now. Plus, over the years, clinchers have really improved. They are able to withstand higher psi's with more puncture resistance. In a race, the inner tube can be changed in literally 2 to 3 minutes. On the downside they weigh a little more and you can't ride them if you get a flat.