Turtle?!HELP NOW!?

Question

my turtles skin is is comein off. i can see his bones! and meat. i feed him good and everything. hes abot the size of a palm. he is a alabama orange belly. something just came out off his bottom and its the size of a small finger and its a sack like thing with black in it and blood!HELP HELP HELP!

Answer 1

what happened..Is he even moving?

They just do NOT fall apart.

Are you serious, did an animal get to him?

If he is dying and it sounds he is .  The  most HUMANE thing is to get him out of his misery.

Wrapped him in a hand towel and put him in the freezer,  He will go to sleep and feel nothing.

It has to be done, he is suffering.

He will not last till you get him to the vet.

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Normal vets generally do NOT know how to mend reptiles..

Contact the “herpetologicalsocieties.com, for a turtle vet in your city and state

Answer 2

turtles are notoriously hard to treat and are even worse at healing he is almost definetly going to die.  just put him out of his misery.  Turtle tend to fight alot but dont usually hurt each other.

Answer 3

feed him cactus if dessert turtle

Answer 4

OMG!  This is probably the most disturbing post I've read to date!  Just OMG!  This one, hands down, beats feeding kittens to snakes!!!!

Remove him from the tank ASAP, and place him in a seperate tank on wet paper towels.

OMG (I'm shaking, just trying to TYPE!).  This is SO beyond B-A-D!!!

I'm not sure if his insides are leaking out for view, or a huge parasite just showed itself.  I'm sick, either way, just thinking about the possibilities!

"i can see his bones! and meat" is  horrible... beyond imaging a cause!   He wasn't considered a food item by other starving turtles, and just - slowly sort of dissolved?!!

And this didn't happen in ONE DAY.  WHY didn't you get help sooner?!!

The poor luv.  I know he's in agony.  This is just... just... The poor, poor creature!

In all my years of doing animals - this is worse thing I've read/heard of.  I'm sitting here, just numb and sick...

Put him on towels, and get him to a vet IMMEDIATELY.  Don't tell me there is NO emergency care in your area.  I know better.  It won't be cheap - but it's there.

Unless you live in Australia, and are 500 miles isolated in some danged stretch of desert - there is just NO excuse for THIS!

This is like yelling "FIRE," and calling the firemen after the house is a smoldering, barely smoking bed of coals!

I don't think you'll find a soul in all the world to answer this posted question in the way you want to hear.

It's too late.  Whatever you have done to that poor animal is  DONE.

Unless it was vitally healthy yesterday, and began to melt today?  It's just too late.  The turtle is SUFFERING greatly!

I just can't imagine how you let it get to this point, without doing something!  I'm numb.

If you can't get it to a reptile vet IMMEDIATELY (in the morning at the lastest), then put it on a moist towel, with another draped over it for security, and slide it into a ziplock type baggie.  Place it in your freezer.

Death will come quickly as it shuts down slowly, and the pain stops.

At this point - it would be a kindness.

Say your prayers, and know God will forgive you.  I doubt others will.

I'm sorry I don't have "fix this" answer for you.

This one will haunt me for years...

Okay, you did an additional - and he is with others.  So, maybe they ATE him!  WHAT are you feeding them?!!

There are many opinions on how to meet the dietary requirements of your RES (and other water turtles).  You can consult your vet for their recommendation, too, and google turtle breeders/sites to see what they feed.  This is what I have found to provide a happy/healthy reptile:

In the wild, red ear sliders (and other water turtles) eat both animal and plant sources of food. However, juveniles are mainly meat eaters, and eat less plant matter than they will as they grow.



In captivity, the diet for juveniles should consist of a commercial aquatic turtle pellet product (like Reptomin floating food sticks); aquatic plants such as Anacharis (research which are safe for consumption); gut loaded crickets; and very small feeders guppies/goldfish/minnows. Hatchlings should be fed small amounts spaced several times over the day (they are growing quickly) and juveniles should be feed on a daily basis. The diet can be supplemented with frozen tubiflex worms and earthworms. Plant matter, in the form of leafy greens (*like curly kale, collard greens, turnip greens, duckweed, water lettuce, Anacharis, chickweed, plantain weed, fig leaves, grape leaves) or finely chopped mixed vegetables, can be offered several times weekly but may not be readily accepted until they grow a bit older, or curiosity sets in.

Get a cuttle bone from the bird dept. at a local pet shop (you can easily cut this to a desired size or use whole for larger turtles/tanks) and drop it in the water for added calcium.  Turtles are curious, and eventually they'll bite at it.  This is fine too, but if they don’t, they will still get added calcium as they drink the water.

For adults the diet is relatively the same (amounts increased as they grow, and daily feedings decrease), but more of the diet may consist of commercial turtle pellets and plant items, such as Anacharis (*see plant/vegetable material above) and vegetables.  

All my turtles, regardless of age, enjoy their gut loaded crickets.  Offering fresh live fish supplements their diet, and provides a good source of exercise as they swim, stalking and catching them.  Adults should be fed assorted greens several times a week.  Adult turtles may not eat daily, but most will if offered the opportunity.

Alternate/rotate the greens to provide a variety of nutrients: (*see above); kale; romaine/red leaf lettuce; mustard greens; dandelion greens/flowers; watercress; parsley; Swiss chard; shredded carrots; shredded squash (yellow; pumpkin; acorn; etc.); mixed vegetables (fresh is better, but thawed frozen can be used) and miscellaneous fruits. NO iceberg lettuce; brussel sprouts, or cabbage!  Never Avocado (this is toxic/poisonous to most animals)!

You can reduce your task of keeping their environment clean by removing your turtle(s) to a small tank/plastic water filled container of the same water temp. (water turtles primarily feed in the water) for feeding.  Turtles shred their food with their beak and front claws, and tend to be quite messy eaters.

GUT LOADING CRICKETS for REPTILES:

The number one problem:

Dried up and malnourished pet store crickets and mealworms. These food items are essentially useless. A dehydrated and unfed cricket contains almost no nutrients at all; refrigerated mealworms are even worse. A lot of the variety in nutrients found in wild insects is actually in the stomach content - usually plant material. We need to duplicate this to provide the best for our reptiles; without the risk of illness/disease/parasites which can result from feeding our pets wild insects.

Please note that wax worms, while fattening, are not nutritious.  Young geckos can eat small silk and phoenix worms, as well.

Basic Dry/Staple Cricket Food:

Equal amounts of dry Iguana food, dry dog food, chick starter mash, oatmeal (you can add dry baby food wheat/rye/barley, etc. as well; even shredded wheat - no sugar).

Grind these items together.  Place in a small lid/bowl for the crickets to eat.  Store the unused portion in the refrigerator or freezer, until needed.

Supplement daily with one of the following: sweet potato, bananas, zucchini, oranges, carrots, strawberries, assorted squashes (acorn, yellow, etc.), grapefruit, green beans, apples, kale, spinach, cactus pads, and just about any other nutritious item you can think of (do not use white/yellow potatoes - these are starchy and only good if used as a moisture source during shipping, and NEVER use Avocado - it's poisonous to most animals).

Provide the dry food and kale at all times (kale is readily available during the winter months, too), rotating the other food items through in succession. The key is variety, and to provide an assortment of varying nutrients. What you are trying to do is offer your reptiles crickets with guts 'loaded' with fresh foodstuffs.

The crickets should be gut loaded for 1-2 days prior to offering them to your reptiles.

Also, provide fresh clean water in a lid/bowl, adding a sponge or folded paper towel to prevent drowning.

  

Don't offer more crickets than the reptile(s) will consume within: 1.) a few hours if it’s a lizard, salamander, frog/toad, or 2.) a few minutes, if it’s a water turtle, so you know the crickets will still be full of the good stuff when eaten.

The crickets should be dusted (shaken in a plastic bag gently to coat them) with vitamins (keep these refrigerated) and calcium D3 powder 2-4 times a week, depending on the age of the reptile.

Be sure to remove any uneaten crickets so that they do not soil your pet's environment/water or bother your pet, once it is full.  Crickets CAN turn the table - and feast upon your pet! Or aggravate them, causing stress and even cessation of eating.

Also be sure the crickets are the correct size for the reptile.  The cricket should be the same size long as the reptile’s head is wide (about the space between the lizards’ eyes).

Just Gawd, this is AWFUL!

Answer 5

what kind of turtle owner are you??????????????? Take him to the VET ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!