Wave Height? From which point do i measure?

Question

From which point do you measure the height of a wave? I looked up the forecast for a beach im going to and it says 2 meters. How high in feet would this actually be from the sea floor to the highest point of the wave if im standing in water that when calm is 5 feet hight?

Answer 1

Just a few comments to what has already been said:

Waves move according to a specific value: 1.34 times the square root of the frequency from crest to crest, gives their speed in knots. That is, incidentally, what is used to measure the so-called displacement speed of a vessel because it pushes a bow wave, and pulls a stern wave.

But that is for a free swell in open sea.

Once you get near a shore, the sea floor creates a drag on the wave circular motion (yes, a rubber duck on a perfect train of waves will move as a perfect circle) and the wave will become steeper and higher. Hence the surf on the beach.

Many years ago, I was in a mini submarine on the bottom of the North Sea, at only 30 meters depth and a two meters wave is still felt at that depth.

So, what is forecasted two meters from the weatherman, can be much more when you stand in shallow water. So, be careful.

Answer 2

Trough to crest. Top to bottom.

Answer 3

Waves are measured from crest (bottom part of wave) to trough (top part).

2 meters = about 6 ft, 5 and a half in.

8 ft, 3 in. from crest to seafloor.

***HOW I GOT 8 FEET, 3 INCHES***

Positive amplitude is the distance from the crest to the resting position of the water. I assume 2 meters means 2 meters from crest to trough. You said the resting position of the water is 5 feet from the seafloor.

Just add positive amplitude (1 meter) and 5 feet.