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What are some things to look for in a long-distance bicycle?

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My primary goals are a cross-country tour, and then maybe some relatively relaxed century competitions (i.e. races but not super-competitive 10 bpm athletes)

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  1. Well you should definitely have a bike that fits you well. Meaning the handle bars should be shoulder length and you should have a slight bend in your arm when you ride to prevent arm cramp and lower back pain witch can be unbearable. To adjust the length from you're saddle to your bars there is a alen wrench bult on the bottom of the saddle and if you loosen that you should be able to move the seat forward. Also there should be a slight bend in your knee. That prevents leg cramp and that is the worst thing to have. Once you get the cramp you'll fall off the bike it will be so pain full. Trust me I know. And a key for bikes is the tires. You are better of with a tire called capitol tires. It is a fantastic tire company there tires are wicked sturdy. They almost never blow. They might be a couple dollars more but no more. and that's all the basics. But you should definitely get a light weight touring bike. There is a tip of fiber that they make bikes with. Its called carbon fiber. Those bike are wicked light and will bring far at a very easy rate. Have fun.


  2. It sounds like your best bet would be an audux or perhaps a light tourer bike if you are going to do non-loaded touring (stay at hotels, eat at restaurants, etc).

    Based on your desire to do this type of riding I am sure that you understand the importance of keeping the bike specced with as many common parts as possible and to utilize the most proven and trustworthy construction. So, with this in mind I'll share what I think would be an excellent setup for you....

    Frame- Bob Jackson Super Legend. Reynolds 753/531 tubeset and Reynolds 531 fork, curly stays. braze ons for 3 waterbottles, rear rack, clearance for mudguards and short reach brakes. Clamp on front derailleur, vertical dropouts, threaded steerer. About $1300 with chromed head lugs, dropouts, and choice of paint schemes. http://www.worldclasscycles.com/js_legen...

    http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/defaul...

    Build kit- SRAM Rival http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15677-1... at $1000.00 (you may have to find a good triple crank for this) or Shimano Ultegra at $1200.00 http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/d...

    This would make a bike that is not only very attractive but also almost indestructible and inherently servicable.

    EDIT: Mr.G- I am mystified as you usually have good points. The Bob Jackson Legend is among the finest touring bikes I have ever ridden and costs less than almost any true tourer out there. Plus, it actually looks like a classic rather than those TiG welded monstrosities that pass for frames. Perhaps you should ride one of these before you pass judgment.

    Furthermore, to my knowledge Thorn does NOT custom build bikes... they custom assemble them from purchased parts sometimes touting their brand- kind of like Dawes did before they sold out completely. Thorn does not build frames and doubt that they have the slightest idea of how to fit someone in a truly custom way.

  3. Comfort is the absolute key. If you are going a long way, a bad fit will make it unbearable. I suggest riding many different models/makes, then when you find a couple that fit pretty well, take them out for a longer ride(s) before buying. Also, a custom fit may be worth the money. Good luck!

  4. For the cross country tour, you need a touring bike frame that can attach racks so you can carry the stuff you need. It's got to fit really well because you will be spending lots of time in the saddle. You'll need powerful gears, probably MTB gearing, to get up long and steep hills with a lot of stuff. The wheels will probably be heavier and have more spokes than a competition wheel. Tires are probably a bit wider, say 28mm. When it is competition time, take off the racks. If you can, substitute lighter wheels. It is possible, but probably not practical, to substitute the largest chain ring with a bigger one to get more "top end" like a true road bike.

    HTH

  5. First decision regarding a cross-country tour.  

    Will you be riding self contained or sagged?

    Self contained = you carry all your gear including tent

    Sagged = someone else (such as a touring company) carries all your gear.

    Unless you have lots of time, I suggest going with a touring company.  While it will cost more, it is a lot easier than riding self contained.

    Also you can use the same bike for the sagged tour and centuries.

    A bike built for self contained touring is a lot heavier and not conducive for riding fast centuries.

    Buy the lightest bike your money will allow for a cross country sagged tour.  Riding 5 to 8 hours every day will take its toll on your body.  A light bike with a light wheel set will require less energy, thus easing the burden on your legs and lungs.

    Comfort is the name of the game for long rides.  I like the handlebars the same height as my seat.  Or slightly higher.  Which is not available on the majority of high end bikes.  Custom frame will be the way to go to achieve a good fit.  

    I would suggest looking at Waterford bicycles.  I have one and the workmanship is outstanding.

    Equip the bike with carbon fiber forks to absorb road shock.  I like Cinelli cork handlebar tape.  Nice cushioning.

    I also like wide bars.  I find the old standby of handlebars being as wide as your shoulders out dated.  I use 46 cm wide bars to open up my chest and allow the mounting of an old set of Profile Aero bars.  I also would use the current dual pivot brake sets.  I have two bikes set up for cantilevers brakes.  Simply do not like them.  Braking is barely adequate at best.  

    I would mount either 700 x 23c or 25c tires.  Again, one cannot believe the amount of energy needed to ride cross country.

    Clipless pedals ( I really believe in the Look system), triple crankset with the largest chain ring no more 50 t.  I run a 26-36-48 on my Waterford.  Only a couple of times I wished for more gearing.  My bike is an equipped with a 8 cog gearset.  11-32.

    I would use a light weight rear rack or seat post rack and a rack pack.  I keep my tubes and tools in a small pack mounted under the seat.

    I would exercise, diet, and weight train before embarking on a cross country ride.  You will pay heavily if you believe you can get in shape during the ride.  May work for a few, but is so painful for the many.  If I decided on a cross country ride for 2009 I would start training tomorrow.  

    A cross country ride is a life changing event.

    Good Luck

  6. I'm not so sure that Garish looking frame from Bob Jackson would be entirely suitable (a little more suited to a Vaudeville act!)

    How about something like this:

    http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/audaxmk3.ht...

    Thorncycles have a huge range of bikes (many are custom built) that are suited to your needs, infact they are the experts at it!!  Check them out on Wikipedia.

    They would be more than happy to discuss your needs with you, I have found them very helpful in the past.

    P.S.  Although they are based in my hometown, I have no affiliation or connection with them - whatsoever!

  7. For long distance, there are 2 major factors you want to look into before purchasing a bike.  They are Comfort and Weight (surprisingly enough).  When checking out comfort you want to: Find the right sized bike because being properly fitted is key, and just how your feel on it.  Weight is also another factor because riding long distance already puts fatigue on your body.    Not only do you have to pull your own weight, but the bikes as well, so you want to make it light.  (Carbon Fiber or Aluminum are the ways to go for material)

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