What are supplies a cockatiel needs? Housing, food, accessories, ect...?

Question

A friend of my mom's is apparently going to give me a male cockatiel; I had one when I was little, but I really don't remember much about their maintenance other than they like seeds, sunflower seeds, and fruit.

What's a list of basic things I need to get for the cockatiel, and is there anything I should know about their maintenance? Where's the best place to put his cage, near a window, close to the living room...? Any tips very much appreciated! :D So excited but nervous!

Answer 1

This website covers everything.  Make sure his cage isn't in direct sunlight, too.

http://www.cockatiels.org/

Answer 2

go to repticzone and ask there. it is the best forum ever i go there every day my user name is animalluvver.

Answer 3

First of all you need a big cage so the bird can move around a lot and here's a list of what you need.

1) Twig perch with different widths (to exercise the feet)

2) Perch with a nail file feel to it (to file down the nails)

3) Toy that will hold up for a while

4) Toy that the bird can destroy

5) Wood pellets to cover the bottom

6) Millet

7) Fresh water at all times

8)  For food I feed my cockatiel rainbow pellets and seed

9) Mirror

As for where to put the cage you should put it somewhere where there's noise because they don't like to be in silence.  They're happiest when they can hear you and the TV and know that there's something there or someone there.  

I hope I helped!

Answer 4

Training your bird at a young age is ideal when compared to re-training or correcting the bad habits of an older bird. Some pet owners can become sidetracked by the freshness of having a new bird and enjoying their cuteness while they’re still baby birds; however, you must remember that in order to set the stage for the future, it is important to socialize your bird, work on good communication, and establish trust at a young age.  Just as human babies need to learn to eat with a spoon and play well with others before they tackle long division, baby birds need to start with the basics. Spend time with your young bird developing trust and teaching the basics of good bird behavior.

Small Pet Bird Cages

Sizes, shapes and housing tips for cockatiels.

Bird Cage Décor

5 Tips to decorating your bird’s cage.

By Diane Grindol

1. Place perches so that droppings do not fall into either food or water bowls or over other perches.

2. If you have multiple birds in a cage, provide multiple food bowls to reduce the chances of a bully bird preventing a cage mate from eating. (If a bird is getting picked on or appears stressed by the presence of other birds, a separate cage is necessary.)

3. For a shy bird, a row of toys can form a sort of retreat, a place to go when there’s too much going on around the cage.

4. A general rule of a minimum of five toys is sufficient, especially if you begin the practice of rotating toys in and out to provide variety for your birds. If daily toy exchanges doesn’t fit into your lifestyle, consider weekly changes.

5. Watch the condition of perches. Natural perches are a good source of entertainment for hookbills that enjoy stripping the bark, but these will need frequent replacing. Dowel perches should be scraped or washed regularly to prevent disease and rope perches can quickly become soiled or frayed.

6. You don’t need to buy a new toy every day to provide variety for a companion bird. If you have a set of a few toys that you alternate in your birds’ cages, then you would be providing stimulation for your birds. You could keep a few toys in the cage that don’t change. Some “toys” are really a part of your birds’ diets, like a skewer of fresh vegetables that they can play with or toasted oats strung on a shoe lace to entertain your hookbills. Large pieces of corn on the cob or broccoli that your birds can shred is entertaining for them as well.

The Best Defense Is You

No toy can be guaranteed as safe for all birds all the time. Your bird’s best defense against injury is you.

Examine toys for potential hazards, such as unsafe hardware and parts that may ensnare toes or trap beaks.

Replace rope toys from cages when they become badly frayed, and remove clappers from bells if your bird has a penchant for detaching them.

Supervise your pet with any new toy until you are certain it can play safely with the toy in your absence.

Offer hand-held toys instead of the hanging variety if your bird is accident-prone.

Keep your bird’s nails trimmed so they don’t become caught in chain or rope.

Be aware that your pet bird is inquisitive, smart and mischievous. It can often find trouble in the most benign situation. Someday someone is going to write to say his or her bird cold-cocked itself with a Ping-Pong ball.

Teach Play

Sometimes it takes a little coaxing, but once your bird catches on to play, toys are not the limit.

By Mattie Sue Athan & Kit Manchester

Toy play usually develops naturally during the period between fledging (when the bird begins to fly and leave the nest) and the onset of sexual maturity in a healthy, young parrot. A normal juvenile parrot is only too willing to climb, chew, disassemble, ring or simply bang almost anything in its environment. This might be furniture, books, picture frames or a favorite pair of shoes — if they are within easy reach of that irresistible hooked beak.  

But what does a responsible owner do if a bird, young or old, won't play with toys? Failure to develop play can result in attention-demanding behavior, or in stress and frustration anytime the bird is not interacting with people.

http://www.birdchannel.com/default.aspx

Answer 5

First buy the largest cage you can afford that a Cockatiel can safely live in.

Then they need a good fortified diet (seeds and pellets, dried fruits.). You will received many conflicts where some will say just pellets. I give mine a combination of both and a couple fresh spinach leaves, shredded carrots, broccoli, berries, etc.

They need a calcium/mineral block. Since it is a single bird please buy a secure mirror for the cage and place on the side near a perch.

Fresh water every morning!! This is very important.

A 'spritz' bottle to provide a warm gentle mist most mornings (not in the face). They like this and will open their wings and move around so you can spritz them all over.

Perches in appropriate width so they don't get arthritis. They should be able to put their claws around the perch for a comfortable grip; NOT TOO SMALL nor TOO large.

The rope ones are also a good idea expecially in the winter time. (Their little feet get cold.)

Never place a bird in direct sunlight, nor in a draft from a vent. They need light but place them approximately 2 Feet away from a window.

They can be in a living room as long as they are in a corner so traffic isn't rushing by them constantly.  A bedroom can be a great place for them. I play quiet music for them (as a white noise) on repeat when I am gone for the day. This drowns out traffic and startling noises.

They need 12-14 hours of uninterrrupted sleep for optimum heath. This is ideal but not always possible if they are in the living room.  You may want to keep the cage in the bedroom and take them out into the living room for a playtime.

Do not have them out of the cage if you are not going to watch them carefully. Never let them outside without the harness/flightsuit on; even if the wings are clipped. (You don't need to clip the wings; this is only to prevent them from flying high but doesn't work that well.). Don't let them out of cage while a dog or cat is wandering around the house. They will think the bird is a toy.

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.