Question:

What are the points asked in a belay test?

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I have done the belay test a couple of times and passed it for the day. But since my first language is not english, it makes it hard to say and remember the words. I am about to do it again, can somebody please refresh my memory so I can learn them once and for all.

I know these:

Double Back on the harness

Climber says: On Belay

Belayer says: Belay On

Climber Says: Climbing

Belayer says: Climb On.

The Safety points are basically what I need to know.

Thanks

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  1. The ABC's is how I used to remember the safety points before you climb

    A- Anchor: Look up to make sure your rope is not twisted.

    B- "Belt": Make sure your harness and the person you're belaying are double backed.

    C- Carabeaners: Make sure your both yours and your friend's carabeaners have locked.

    Then proceed to use your commands (On belay, belay on, etc.)

    Start belaying, don't leave too much slack in the rope.

    I'm assuming you're belaying off of a gri-gri, so once your friend gets to the top of the wall, wait for them to say "Take" reply with "I've got you" and then start to lower them down.

    Don't touch the black lever until they say Take and sit back on the rope.

    and you're done.

    Good luck, and welcome to the climbing community!


  2. Maybe tie into the rope with a figure eight knot.

  3. Your list looks good to me. I'm not sure these are standardized for all belay teachers, but I would say:

    1. Climber checks the belayers harness AND belay device

    2. Belayer checks the climbers harness AND tie in knot

    3. Climber gets ready and asks: On Belay?

    4. Belayer gets ready and says: Belay On

    5. Climber says: Climbing

    6. Belayer is ready and says: Climb on

    7. Climber wants no slack or to hang / rest says: Take!

    8. Climber needs more slack says: Slack

    9. Climber hanging wants to come down says: Lower

    Good Luck

  4. Climber checking belayer:

    Harness: waist belt snug above the hips and leg loops snug around the legs with all buckles doubled back (when doubled back, the exposed metal of the buckle looks like a "C" )

    Ensure rope is run through belay device appropriately:

    ATC: rope bent and pushed through slot of device with short end or rope on side of belayers dominate hand. Carabiner should be clipped through both rope and belay device before clipped to harness belay loop

    Gri-gri: follow pictures on device to show how to run rope through device. If you are right handed, then black lever should be on the back side

    Carabiners: should be of locking variety and in a locked postion. Carabiner should not open simply by squeezing on the gate.

    Belayer checking Climber:

    Harness: waist belt snug above the hips and leg loops snug around the legs with all buckles doubled back (when doubled back, the exposed metal of the buckle looks like a "C" )

    Knot: Clean Fig-8 followthru with a 2ndary knot. Usually a fishermans knot. "clean" means no twists. The loop of rope that goes through the harness and the loop created between the fig-8 and 2ndary knot should not be any bigger than a baseball. Any bigger and risk increases of catching the rope on a hold as the climber climbs.

    Both: Climber & belayer should take a glance up the rope to ensure that the rope is not wrapped around itself. If the rope rubs on rope, a significant amount of friction will be created doing considerable damage to the rope. On an high climb, rubbing over and over can eventually cause the rope to fail.

  5. on my test they asked me to insert the rope correctly into the carabiner. Then they watched belay technique (pull up to pull out slack and down to break). Then the instructer grabbed the other end and would pull down ( without me knowing to see if i was ready).

    and another part of the test involved me making a figure eight and a figure eight follow through attached to my harness. hope this helps

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