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What brand name motorcycle is safer,than other brands.?

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What brand name motorcycle is safer,than other brands.?

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  1. The one that's ridden the least and spends most of its time as a garage queen.

    No, I'm not going to name the brand -- but you'll know which one it is because you'll see it trailered instead of being ridden on the freeway.


  2. That is up to the rider named Joseph not the name on the bike

    I have put tens of thousands of miles on the most rad choppers & have D near killed myself hillclimbing a 650 it aint the bike Cuz

  3. "Motorcycles are all dangerous, it doesn't matter the brand" - I agree to some extent but I ride and have been a rider for a long time.

    My own opinion on the whats the safest motorcycle is brand really doesn't matter as almost all brands have over powered death rockets and easy peezy slowbiez for you to choose from, is that you really need to look at yourself, or who the rider will be if its not a bike for you (you didn't specify).

    1. Size and weight of the bike.  This is a combination of seat height and width as a narrow seat can be a bit higher and still let you "flat foot" it and Weight, sometimes a heavy bike can have a lower center of gravity ie, it carries its weight lower and so still is easy to maneuver.  

    You need to feel comfortable and confident handling your bike.  For beginners this DEFF means getting both feet solidly planted on the ground when you stop or need to back up.  It also means you can muscle it around a little when you need to in slow maneuvering.  

    2. power curve.  You need to make sure the motorcycle is going to be "forgiving" when you are learning.  ie, it shouldn't be smooth and easy up to a certain rpm and then take off like its going into hyperdrive or it will be a scary and dangerous ride until you are comfortable and capable when it comes to throttle modulation.  Bikes aren't like cars in that you don't have a big pedal to press up and down to control your speed.  You turn your grip with your hand and while it seems thats easier because our hands are more dexterous, its kind of a mistake to see it that way.  It still requires a learning curve and when you are learning its pretty easy, more so on some bikes than others, to accidentally gun it when you hit rough pavement.  This can end up being very dangerous if your bike is twitchy and powerful so that it sends you flying into the back of a car or off the road, into oncoming traffic as you overshoot your turn etc.  The amount you need to twist that throttle might only be a quarter inch to go from ho hum comfy cruise mode to cruise missile mode!  

    Also can you be trusted with that much power to weight?  Newbies on literbikes are serious organ doners.  Its too easy and WAAAAAAAAY to tempting to find out just what your bike can do long before you are good enough or smart enough to handle it.  Trust me your bike can outperform you!  So if you aren't VERY responsible and conservative DO NOT learn on a liter+ or even prolly a 750 if we are talking in line fours, maybe a 750 Honda shadow V-twin or something would be fine though.

    Really its about a bike that you can feel comfortable on and it should have a mellow powerband and not be too heavy.  Ive coached a lot of people and taught a few to ride, my advice is always go out and buy yourself a smallish, 500cc or so "rat bike" or beater like an old honda shadow 500 from the 80s or something for 600 bucks or what have you and ride it around for 6 months to a year then get your "real" bike.  Point is EVERYBODY drops it when they are learning.  IT might just be slow in the parking lot and hurt nothing but your ego but it can be pricey if you wreck your plastic or mar up your paint etc.  And being nervous about your bike is just one more thing to make you stiff or keep your mind off where you really need it to be when you are learning. >>Your own safety and where those cars are going, whats your best escape route at all times... just in case, etc.

    Oh last but not least... I like standards for beginners... on a crotch rocket you are hunched down into an unnatural position and on many cruisers you are stretched out and leaned back, neither position is best to learn in.  A "standard" puts you in a very upright position and makes it easy to see the traffic around you and react to it but is also much more comfortable than the extreme position of a race bike.

    I realize this is not a list of safe bikes but I hope the advice will help you pick something to keep you safe while you learn the skills that will eventually make YOU a safe rider on ANY bike that floats your boat...

    ...V-twins are safer for learners than four cylinders because the power is lower in the rpm range and more "useable" at sane speeds... (not in every case but as a general rule)

    ...Stick to bikes that are smaller displacement until you are ready to graduate to a more mind warpingly fast machine... but dont spend a lot of money on a learner because you might   outgrow the small bike rather quickly and be ready for a bigger bike.  Its best not to skip the small learner bike phase alltogether though.  Learner bikes save lives.

    ...Standards are better learners because they are sort of middle of the road.  Cruisers and crotchrockets are extremes...

    ...Its you that determines safer / not safer most of the time.  Just as on a bike it doesnt matter who has right of way, you are always responsible for you since you are the one who dies or pays the blood/skin penelty if you crash or get hit.  Knowing you had the right of way will be little consollence when you are laid up or dead after that truck runs the stop light and you T-bone it...

    ...You might buy a cheap bike but DO NOT SKIMP ON YOUR GEAR....  Buy the best full face helmet you can afford and buy at least a mesh jacket with armor built in then wear stout over the ankle foot wear.  I have seen some sick pictures of wrecked bikers.  In FL where Im learned you dont even need a helmet, but both of my serious accidents dropped me on my head and except for some pretty nifty road rash scars Im still fine.  Do not be one of those people trying to look cool with out a bucket.  They are decidedly less cool when they smash their skull or grind their face off in even a "slow" 45 mile drop.

    Good luck and keep the shiny side up!

  4. You need to ask what rider is safer, not what bike.  If you buy a smaller bike, easier to handle and probably more likely the new rider will be able to avoid a accident.  However, a skilled rider can avoid the same accident on any bike, but if you're an idiot, you're an idiot and are going down anyway no matter the band, the make, the model, the style, or any BS like that.  It's the rider that determines how safe the bike is.

    Now if you want to talk about DEPENDABILITY of certain brands - that's a different question.

  5. the safest bike is a Harley Davidson

    why?

    because they are sooooo s-l-o-w

    think about it? when you're traveling 10 to 15 MPH and you wreck there is much less of a chance you get hurt

  6. Brand name makes no difference........any MC is only as safe as the rider riding it....and sometimes even that makes no difference.

  7. BMW has anti-lock brakes, so it may be safer than most others.

  8. No it is in the rider, the only unsafe ones would be the Chinese junk that is imported in they might fall apart under you

  9. While you can argue that a bike with ABS or maybe the new Goldwing with the airbag system is a little bit safer compared to other bikes, if you ride like an idiot, your chances of crashing are still very good.

  10. Motorcycles are all dangerous.  The brand makes no difference.

    http://home1.gte.net/res0ak9f/bike.htm

    ===

    What is different is that smaller bikes (250 cc) are easier to handle.  Also the scooters (250 cc class) are also slightly easier to ride and handle.

    Good Luck...

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