What do salamnders eat?

Question

What do salamnders eat and what climate should

they be in?

Thanks

Answer 1

.The answer to that question depends of the age of the salamander. How younger the salamander, how smaller the food. In most of the cases the larf eats his own eggchell and lives the first week of micro-organisms called 'infuus' that lives in water what is already in culture (pond water). After a week the larf starts eating small animals, such as little daphnids or cyclopsen. After two weeks they like larger daphnids and after three or four weeks they are large enough for tubifex or red mosquito larvae. After six up to eight weeks they eat the same as the adult animals, only smaller formats.

Adult salamanders at the water stage eat also the aforesaid food animals completed with rainworms, maggots, and mysis.

Adult salamanders at the country stage eat almost everything what crawls and smaller is than themselves, like fruit flies, spiders, rainworms, maggots, springtails, flour maggots and buffaloworms. Also you can offer them red mosquito larvae on a wet tissue.

i hope i helped :D

Answer 2

what they eat:

Aquatic salamanders respond to odor, movement or touch; terrestrial ones respond to movement. While captive species will often happily eat the easily available mealworms, the worms do not have the complete nutrition the sallies require and must only be fed as a part of a well-rounded diet.

You can become yourself a hunter, searching for food under rotten logs and other debris. Pillbugs, beetles, earthworms, small millipedes, insects, aphids for newly metamorphosed larvae, small moths and other night-flying insects are suitable for native terrestrial and semi-aquatic sallies; aquatic sallies require small aquatic invertebrates which can be netted from ponds and streams. Small crustaceans such as Daphnia and water fleas can be found in waters with high algal content; check ponds during summer months for these, or buy them at your local aquarium shop, along with brine shrimp. DO NOT introduce carnivorous insect larvae such as dragonflies or water beetles which may eat tiny salamander larvae. All in all, it may be easier to order the bulk of the live prey you require from mail-order Prey Sources.

Feed daily only as much as the animals will consume at one time. In terrestrial tanks, a few living leftovers can left in the tank, but no new food should be offered until the leftovers are consumed. Feeding a wide variety of prey will help insure the sallies get a balanced diet. Non-hibernating species should have their food dipped in vitamins two to three times a week during the winter months.

Since salamanders are attracted to prey by its movement, they do not take readily to killed prey. Some may be induced to eat small strips of raw beef or dead prey, but this should not be relied upon. Some prey may be grown at home: fruit flies, mealworms and beetles, earthworms, whiteworms and crickets. The benefit to raising your own prey is that you do not have to worry about not having to go out and collect prey, and you can ensure your prey eat healthy foods, thus making them healthier for your sallies

Salamanders from temperate climates will not need special heating as long as they can be kept at the same temperatures they would encounter in their native habitat. Tropical and semi-tropical species do require supplemental heating; this is especially crucial when keeping tropical and subtropical species in climates that get very cold at night.

Heating can easily be accomplished by use of an aquarium water heater and lighting. Using a submersible water heater will both warm the water and increase the humidity through evaporation. Terraria and the land area in vivaria may be heated by use of a light (but a white light must never be lit at night). Terraria may also be heated and humidified by placing a submersible heater in a bottle or jar of water.

Undertank heating pads may also be used, as may heat lamps. Extreme care must be taken with heat lamps to be sure that they do not kill the plants and that they do not make the enclosure too hot. While lamps can be moved closer and farther away from the tank which allows for some adjustment, you have to be there to do it, and several hours at too high a temperature may be all that is needed to kill the plants - and the salamanders.

A temperature gradient must be provided in order for the salamanders to thermoregulate themselves; they do this by moving back and forth between warmer and cooler areas. This is easily accomplished by designating one side of the tank as the warm side. The resulting natural gradient towards the cool side.

In the wild, there is usual a noticeable drop in temperature at night; it is best to drop the temperature in the enclosure by as much as 12 F at night.