What do you love about surfing?

Question

tell me the best feelings you've had in the water, are they happy feelings? lol

Answer 1

everything :) best thing happend to me in the water..i cought a wave droped in its all good then dolfins got on the same wave...it was like slow moution got that god feeling

Answer 2

i've only been surfing a few times since i don't live close enough to water to go regularly, but i still love it. i love the feeling and rush you get from standing up that first time you catch a wave, the way adreniline covers up the pain from getting sent through a real life washing machine. nothing can compare to the feeling of flowing with the water and being at one with nature. the feeling of not knowing of what is gonna happen next, not knowing if you're a mile or 10 feet from a shark or other sea life. the mystery, the misserable feeling of being beaten against the bottom of the ocean, but then being able to get back up and try again. it's almost magical, it's the best feeling ever, and i can't wait until i move closer to the water so that i can surf more often. it's the happiest feeling ever.

Answer 3

I was bought up inland. When I left school I earned a bit of money then just headed off "hanging loose". I  met up with some travelling surfers and we ended up crusing together for a while. They keep on hassling me to give it a go ... but I couldn't swim . Being an "inlander" I was happy to sus out the beach's , a new experience for me, and go to some "out of the way"  places. Eventually I got a good strong leg-rope with a dog collar buckled around my leg ., I didn't trust velcro.

The first time I went out and just paddled around or watched the others from side on and got used to the feel of the board/sea. After about 2 hours they called it a day and went in. I had done bugger all , a few nose-dives was my bit , but I felt " buzzed out". I was hooked and it became a lifestyle for 10 years.

Moving on 20 or so  years ... I developed an interest in "alternative therapies" and heard about a thing call a float -tank . which is basically an enlosed  tub  full of salty water ; so salty that you float on it . It is good for relieving physical stress as the effects of gravity on your body are minimalised.

I had a try in one , and after I got out I had the same " buzz " I  had after a full-on surf session , without the weariness.

So I reckon that the long periods of bouyancy has got a lot to do with buzz I got , and still occassionally do , out of surfing.

Answer 4

I've been surfing for 44 years, probably many times your age.   The best feeling is that simple everyday feeling when I go surfing, which is just looking forward to get into the ocean and surf.  When you surf, you forget about all of your problems; it's a time that I find pure relaxation regardless of the issues that you sometimes confront in the water.  What's on land stays on land, pure and simple.

As you get older there are many times that you forget about looking forward.  Instead, you ponder about the past or something you are dreading that's ahead.  With surfing, it keeps me looking forward with positive feelings.

Answer 5

The bopping feeling of the waves, going up and down; ramming your face into the wave as you duck-dive, holding on tight underwater...the feeling of warm salty water on your face....the peace once you've made it to the line-up, especially late afternoon....just lying on your board, floating around......

Then spotting a nice set at the horizon, paddling like an iron man, placing yourself, and of course, popping up, slowly, keeping your knees near you chin for a second just before standing up.....watching the void grow before your eyes...

And powering down the face while pushing the rail...

then slashing the lip and making a nice spray....and diving back in the water and feeling the power rolling above you, before paddling back out and starting all over.....

I also love driving to the beach and putting on the wetsuit...the smell...the wax...everything, basically...;-)

Answer 6

I am a surfer and i just love the feeling of almost being nature. To ride with the wave and not fight it. To take a dare and the wind and the rush of the speed and knowing that sometimes their is only 3 feet of water below me makes me just love it.

Answer 7

surfing keeps me sane, it erases anything that happened that day that got me sad, mad, whatever......its great exercise and you have fun doing it, you get to play with nature, you meet great people, its great seeing familiar faces out in the water, everything about surfing is great in everyway