Question:

What do you think of my cage for my rabbit? (pics) any advice?? help plz x]?

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here is the front : http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo176/darlenathach/?action=view&current=Photo-00722.jpg

the left side [close up]: http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo176/darlenathach/?action=view&current=Photo-0073.jpg

the right side [close up]: http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo176/darlenathach/?action=view&current=Photo-00742.jpg

toy tray on the bottom [sides in and out]: http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo176/darlenathach/?action=view&current=Photo-00752.jpg

theres [on the left side] a small play place for it to hang out lol: http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo176/darlenathach/?action=view&current=Photo-00762.jpg

any advice? what does it need? what does it not need? too much? too lil?

if you know how to make household toys for rabbits, please tell me x]

thx!

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  1. i have that cage. Too small for a rabbit. Use litter. Blankets will not abosorb smell, or pee. so the rabbit will be in pee all day. you shourl get a plastic hut (like for a rat or hampster) insted or shoe bozes. They are stonger, and rabbits will like to be on top of them.

    There is not enough water in there for a rabbit. Get a water bottle, like at petsmart. give her hay, and not pellets. they are btter for the rabbit. give fruits and vegges X2 a week.

    The bunny wont need the little dog. But the hut with the blanket it it is good,

    good luck!


  2. You should put some carrots in there.

  3. too small


  4. Urine and f***s need an area to fall into so the rabbit does not get soar hocks or a dirty bum.  Either that or, if there's enough room, a tray as a litter box-as rabbits can be litter trained.

  5. IT IS  way too small-DEFIANTLY NOT BIG ENOUGH!  EVEN IF YOU TOOK THE CARDBOARD BOX OUT!

    look like bird cage.Not fair to keep poor rabbit in that house.

    You need straw-not blankets. You need enough room for the rabbit to move freely including running freely, clearly there very little room for the rabbit, let along correct rabbit bedding and food & water bowls!

    Rabbits need plenty of room to hop around and a separate enclosed sleeping area that provides shelter from the elements. They are social animals and should have a companion such as another rabbit or a guinea pig. The suggested (RSPCA) size of a hutch for two rabbits is 180cm x 90cm x 90cm. This allows them to stand up, play and find space to be on their own. Bedding straw should be replaced on a daily basis and the hutch should be cleaned thoroughly each week. Insect mesh around the hutch will protect the rabbits from mosquitoes and other insects.

    BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    1 Pre-cut all timber to size and lengths detailed in Materials list.

    2 Assemble base frame with screws.

    3 Assemble A-frames and door jams for front of hutch, centre, front of sleeping quarters and rear of sleeping quarters. NB: fix door jams to A-frames but leave top of A-frame unfixed in order to insert ridge piece.

    4 s***w all A-frames to base (the front of the sleeping quarters frame should be fixed 50mm from the rear, and the centre A-frame about half way between the front of the sleeping quarters and front of hutch). The sleeping quarters length (from the back wall to the internal wall) should be shortened by twice the thickness of the recycled timber. This will allow the boards on the roof to overlap the boards on the back and internal walls.

    5 Insert and s***w ridge piece to top of A-framework.

    6 Paint framework.

    7 For rear wall and door of house: hold recycled timber pieces up against the rear A-frame. With a pencil, scribe A-frame and door opening onto recycled timber panels. Cut along scribed angle lines and cut out doorway.

    For central wall and door: scribe A-frame and cut as above. For doorway, scribe small triangle and cut with handsaw.

    8 s***w rear recycled timber cladding to rear and central A-frame walls.

    9 Staple wire mesh to the underside of the floor of hutch.

    10 Staple mesh to sides (roof) and the front of the hutch. NB: The wire pieces for the front triangular area will have to be trimmed to fit.

    11 s***w side wall panels of recycled timber to hutch.

    12 Staple mesh to the front door of hutch.

    13 s***w recycled palings to the rear door frame.

    14 Hang both rear and front doors with hinges and secure with latches.

    HOUSING

    Recommended cage sizes are

    Small breeds weighing about 1kg

    Single cage 380mm x 610mm x 460mm high

    Breeding cage 610mm x 610mm x 460mm high

    Medium sized breeds weighing up to 4kgs

    Single cage 610mm x 610mm x 610mm

    Breeding cage 610mm x 90mm x 610mm

    Large breeds weighing over 4kgs

    Single cage 900mm x 610mm x 610mm

    Breeding cage 1200mm x 610mm x 610mm

    Hutches may be built in teirs and can be kept inside or outside. If outside, then it should have an overhanging roof to give the rabbit protection. It should be placed on bricks or posts to prevent moisture rising in the wood and rotting it. Hutches should be secured to ensure they are not overturned in bad weather. The floors should be watertight, and unless a part wire floor is provided (with a metal tray), it is normal to supply absorbent bedding, usually wood shavings or straw.

    Here are what rabbit hutches should look like

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LUXURY-LOWSET-4FT...

    Another hutch

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TRIANGLE-RABBIT-H...

    Another hutch

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HUGE-RUN-ENCLOSUR...

    Rabbit Hutches

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0hSJj53x...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMsnoRoYA...

    Rabbits need plenty of room to hop around and a separate enclosed sleeping area that provides shelter from the elements-THEY WIL CHEW CARDBOARD!. They are social animals and should have a companion such as another rabbit or a guinea pig. The suggested (RSPCA) size of a hutch for two rabbits is 180cm x 90cm x 90cm. This allows them to stand up, play and find space to be on their own. Bedding straw should be replaced on a daily basis and the hutch should be cleaned thoroughly each week. Insect mesh around the hutch will protect the rabbits from mosquitoes and other insects.

    Rabbits need to eat a high fibre grass based diet. Good quality grass hay & a little fresh green pick(fresh grass, clover,dandelions & dark green leafy vegetables) are all they need. Lucerne hay & pellets are useful for young growing rabbits, but the high calcium content can cause urine tract problems in adult rabbits

    They can eat endive, cos lettuce, bok choy, baby bok choy, rocket, basil, dill, coriander, dutch carrots (especially the tops), chicory, broccoli, radish tops, parsley, choy sum and treat foods like carrots, apples and other fruits like strawberries.

    No cabbage, cauliflower leaves, onions, potatoes, veggie peelings, NOT ICEBERG LETTUCE

    Fresh Greens and Hay

    Suit;Rabbit, bird,guniea pig, rodent

    Short;5-15mintues

    500g grass hay

    1 cup freshly cut grass

    1/4 cup freshly picked clover

    4 green beans

    2 celery tops(the leaves from the top of the celery stick)

    6 carrots tops(just the leaves from freshly picked carrots)

    1/2cm slice of carrot(NO MORE)

    Serve

    Rinse your ingredients with clean water & serve immediately

    Treats for rabbits

    Suit; rabbit, rodent

    Short; 5-15mintues

    Ingredients;

    1 slice of apple, 0.5cm thick

    2-3raisins

    1 pistachio nut

    pinch of oatmeal

    apple cider

    dish of herbal tea

    Serve

    Serve treats fresh to your rabbits

    High fibre diet for rabbits

    Excellent diet to help a rabbit recover from diarrhoea due to feeding too many easily digested foods such as lettuce, fresh &dried frut or even too many grain and pellets.

    Suit; Rabbits

    Short; 5-15mintues

    ingredients

    2kg grass hay

    1 cup freshly picked grass & clover

    serve

    serve fresh to your rabbit

    Food that rabbits and guinea pigs should avoid

    Brassicaceous vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, kale can cause too much gas to be produce if fed in large amounts to rabbits and guinea pigs

    High-Oxalate vegetables

    Greens such as Spinach, beet leaves and to lessers extend parsley can have high levels of oxalates. fed in high amounts these can interfere with calcium metabolism and cause damage to kidney.Carnivores are unlike to consume enough of these to cause a problem but herbivores such as rabbits and guinea pigs could be at risk if fed this greens as the bulk of their diet. they are not a problem if fed in small amounts to healthy animals.

    Grain based diets.

    These are too high in energy and do not contain enough effective roughage.the high energy result in fat pets & the lack of roughage contributes to dental disease and poor intestinal health.

    Book-NIBBLE MUNCH CHOMP-The art and science of feeding your pet by Sasha Herberts.

    Watch these video

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMa74W1uV...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t0Wh8BHa...

  6. That cage is way too small, even by the pictures it looks small

  7. Far too small, dear.

    Far too small.

    Where's the woodshavings to absorb urine and poo? Blankets will just get stained and soaked and it'll stink to high heaven, causing the rabbit and anyone in the room to suffer.

    Where's the water bottle?

    Where's the plastic or wood based house? Cardboard boxes won't last a second.

    There's nothing in there to amuse the rabbit- h**l, it's so small there's barely room for it to MOVE, let alone run around like rabbits like to do.

    ***

    NO.

    That is totally unexpectable.

    There's twenty four hours in a day.

    Assuming from how you type and how the cage looks, I guess you're still in school, which is eight plus hours where you can't supervise the rabbit, so the rabbit is in there eight hours.

    Plus being asleep at night, which is at least another seven hours, so that's fifteen hours in the cage.

    THEN plus the times you want to go out with friends, to the movies, or to play, or are eating, or whatever- let's say at least... two hours a day time you can't supervise because you're out or eating, and that's at the minimum.

    Poor d**n rabbit is stuck in a TINY cage for about seventeen hours a day. That's bull, kid.

    YOU don't have to be stuck in the same, tiny place for seventeen hours a day, and only allowed out for about seven hours a day, and seven hours a day is a real push, because I doubt you're going to be able to- or want to- supervise your rabbit for seven hours a day.

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