What is everything I need to know about having two rabbits? (details inside)Best answer 10 points.?

Question

I want to get two rabbits. They will share a cage, but they won't be two males. I also need some ideas on how to convince my parents... UGH! Anyhow, what is everything I need to know about having rabbits. Most detailed, as much true info as possible, tips to convince parents, if you include all of this, best answer 10 points!

Answer 1

Do not put 2 rabbits in a cage together they will fight, and you would probably find 1 of them dead when you wake up 1 day, and they are very hard to take care of, because I had 1 once, and it was very hard to take care of, because if i were you i would only get 1 rabbit, and then see how 1 rabbit goes, and if the first rabbit dosen't work very good you shouldn't get another 1, just get 1 and see how it goes.

Answer 2

They stink

Answer 3

I have raised show rabbits for 5 years now. I do not suggest at all putting two rabbits in the same cage regardless of s*x because they don't get along. Only litter mates (siblings) can stay together in the same cage for an extended period of time.

Rabbits are fun, cuddly, cute, adorable, and have such sweet personalities. Once you have one, you can't help but show it some love. Just tell your parents that you are aware that rabbits take a lot of responsibility and that you are ready for the challenge. You know that you will take good care of them and want a pet that is easy to handle and show some love.

I have my rabbits in all wire stackable cages outside in my barn. I have one rabbit per cage, with the cages side by side. Rabbits like to have a friend nearby, but needs to know that it is special by itself as well. It wants some individual attention, not fighting for attention from you.

There is so much information I have, if you have any other questions feel free to ask away. I've been through several situations with rabbits and know a few things. I hope I have been able to help you in some way. I know that rabbits are just beautiful creatures that I always can't help but love. Good luck!

Answer 4

If oyu are getting 2 rabbits, make sure you have enough food, room, water, and litter training boxes things.

Becareful they don't fight or anything, if they do so, put them in different cages.!!

Rabbits are very nice and tameable if you are good enough, be calm, paitient, and whenever approaching a rabbit, always come from the side view.

Some of the ways to convince your parents are just telling them that YOU WLL BE VERY VERY REPOSNIBLE AND if you don't take care of it very very well, they will take it away. I mean, even i believed myself after i got my rabbit :)

It's living very well!!

Tell them, it won't cost very much and that it won't be so furry.

(get short haired rabbit!!! don't get a rex if you are keeping it insde, it has way to much fur)

Rabbits are night animals and they do need lots of excercise, it is very important they do. So if they are living inside, just let them roam around your room......................and if they live outside, let them roam somewhere yo can keep an eye on them. If they live outside, NEVER.. I MEAN NEVER

take your eye off them. Give them lots of care and love..

You;ll be fine, trusttt me

Answer 5

You should start by reading http://www.rabbit.org  

Answer 6

if you want to get two rabbits make sure the cage is big enough for both of them. Also get two girls, not two boys, or a boy and a girl.  There cages do need to be cleaned often because they do stink. Do a cage that has a tray where the p**p can fall into and is easy to clean. You will need a chew toy for them to chew, a plastic thing they can stand on in the cage so they dont get sore hocks. and food and water bowl etc.  About your parents, start doing more things around the house, like clean your room, and do the dishes etc. on that two!

good luck

hope i can help

Answer 7

Well, as a start you can check out the website I'm currently working on about basic rabbit care:

http://oakridgecare.bravehost.com

It's a work in progress, but already has a good bit on information on it.

Also, as others suggested, I would not put two rabbits in a cage together regardless of s*x unless they are spayed and neutered. A male x male pair, as you know, is not a good idea. A female x male pair causes unwanted litters. And a female x female pair often ends in fighting once they reach maturity. However, if you're going to try one of these pairs, I'd recommend none other than the female x female.

Answer 8

We had two rabbits at one point.  They sucked.  Didn't really like being held and their cage will stink if it's not cleaned daily.  

They had babies, only one lived and the mom died shortly after that.  We had to give the other two away eventually because we moved...

Answer 9

Be very careful and never put them in the same cage because i did that and one of them died 1 day and other one died the next day due to the injury of the fight  sob..sob.

Better buy 1 male and 1 female and u will have more friends . Give them sufficient food and clean the cage twice in a week.

Show as if you are very lonely . This is the best way to convince your parents. Now give me the best answer. :-)

Answer 10

that guy bunnies will get g*y with each other

Answer 11

put them on baby watch...haha seriously, play with them, BUT GIVE THEM THEIR SLEEP TIME. and tell your parents that its almost like having a sibling and getting rabbits is like getting a friend that always sleeps over.

Answer 12

Everything you need to know about having two rabbits:

If one is a male and the other is a female, you will have many MORE than just two rabbits. ;)

Answer 13

The best argument I used when I convinced my parents to get a bunny was that they arent that messy and they are quiet (usually). They also can be litter box trained (very simple) which will make clean up very easy and they wont make a mess around the house. Getting the rabbits spayed and/or nuetered is also a good idea. It will make them much more friendly, less territorial, and less likely to mark their territory or to go to the bathroom around the house.

Here are some of the basics of caring for a rabbit.

1. When you get a litter box, (the best ones are the corner ones) make sure the litter that you put in it is NOT kitty litter. Especially clumping litter. That is fatal for rabbits if they are accidently eaten. The best ones are the pelleted litter. There is some that comes that are made for ferrets and that works REALLY well!

2. When litter box training here are some tips:

There should be a corner that your rabbits tend to go to the bathroom so place the litter box there. Place some of their p**p in the litter box to show them that that is where they need to go to the bathroom. Be patient with them, it could take a while until they catch on. Mine had a hard time pooping in the litter box but got the peeing down real fast! Training them in a room is much harder. I still havent got my bunny mastered at it but she is only 4 months old. You might want to get a few extra boxes for when they are running around so they are less likely to go on the floor if there are more available. When training in a room, when they go where they arent suppose to place it in the litter box and show it to the rabbit. Its better to train them in a room that doesnt have carpet and put down newspaper so you can easily clean it up.

3. Food wise there are many things to avoid. Get them a pellet for regular feed and add fruits and veggies to their diet. Pellets should have a high amount of fiber (18% is the minimum). Never, I repeat NEVER feed your bunny iceburg lettece!! That can kill the bunny. They can have a lot of other things as well. Greens and veggies are very important to their diet. You can start introducing those at a young age (about 12 weeks).But its better to wait to introduce fruits until they are 6 months old and their digestive systems can handle it better. Be very careful when introducing new foods to your rabbit. Their digestive systems are sensitive and too much at once could be bad for the rabbit. Hay is also very important. Timothy hay is the best. Alfalfa is too rich for them to have everyday but is a nice treat once in a while. Hays should be available as much as possible. It helps keep their digestive systems moving and prevents hairballs which can kill a rabbit. Treats are nice for a bunny but should be given sparingly. Just like a human, too much of these can cause them to be over wieght and/or sick. Here is a list of good veggies for bunnies:

Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts

Basil

Beet greens (tops)*

Bok choy

Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*

Brussels sprouts

Carrot & carrot tops*

Celery

Cilantro

Clover

Collard greens*

Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*

Endive*

Escarole

Green peppers

Kale (!)*

Mint

Mustard greens*

Parsley*

Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*

Peppermint leaves

Raddichio

Radish tops

Raspberry leaves

Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*

Spinach (!)*

Watercress*

Wheat grass

(!)=Use sparingly. High in either oxalates or goitrogens and may be toxic in accumulated quantities over a period of time

Here is a list of good fruits:

Apple (remove stem and seeds)

Blueberries

Melon

Orange (including peel)

Papaya

Peach

Pear

Pineapple

Plums

Raspberries

Strawberries

Sugary fruits such as bananas and grapes should be used only sparingly, as occasional treats. Bunnies have a sweet tooth and if left to their own devices will devour sugary foods to the exclusion of healthful ones.

Remember to introduce these slowly.

Here is a list of what ages bunnies should be eating what:

Birth to 3 weeks--mother's milk

3 to 4 weeks--mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets

4 to 7 weeks--mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets

12 weeks--introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.)

7 months to 1 year--unlimited pellets, timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa (unlimted is best if possible)

decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight

increase daily vegetables gradually

fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)

1 year to 5 years--Unlimited timothy, grass hay, oat hay, straw

1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)

Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight

fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight.

Over 6 years--If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet

Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.

4. Make sure that when it is hot your bunny is kept in the shade. Dont put the bunny in direct sunlight. If it gets too hot, put a frozen water bottle in their cage. This will help them cool down. You can also put in a cool damp towel for them to lay on to cool off. Dont place your bunny in a place where AC, heat or fans blow directly on them. They dont like this. The best thing is to place it to the fan blows just over the bunny.

5. Make sure you change water regularly and that their is always fresh, cool water available.

6. If your bunnies are agressive, there is a possibility that getting them spayed or nuetered will help that situation (for does/girls, getting them spayed increases their lifespan). But if that doesnt help the only way to help this is to handle them a lot and show them that you are not there to hurt them. You are their friend and you love them, but they think you are a predator so show them you arent.

7. If they ever do something bad, dont hit them like you could a cat or dog. The most effective way is to say no sternly and loud. If they are on the floor, stomping on the floor is also effective. Since it is a warning sign. Another method is to put them in their cage when they do something wrong. It'll show them that if they do that they dont get their freedom.

8. Excercise is VERYimportant. They cant sit in their cage all the time. They are animals that have a lot of energy and love to play. Try to let them out a few hours a day if possible. Even 20 minutes is fine. Whatever time you can have them out to get their excercise.

9. As for toys there are many things you can do, a lot without buying anything. Rabbits will play with just about anything. Some good toys you can get from around the house are phone books (can be messy, they shred them), a cardboard box that is turned upside down with holes cut on the sides for them to go in and out, baskets turned on their sides, a soda can with a rock inside it (make sure you cut down sharp edges) and just about anything that makes noise. Mine has a small metal bowl that she likes to throw around and make noise with. They also like cat toys (balls with bells in them), parrot toys (stuff hung from top of cage, that can be tossed, chewed on, or hit), baby toys (hard plastic toys like rattles and keys, things that can be tossed), Plastic Rainbow slinkies, A hand towel for bunching and scooting, Untreated wood, twigs and logs that have been aged for at least 3 months. (Apple tree branches can be eaten fresh off the tree. Stay away from: cherry, peach, apricot, plum and redwood, which are all poisonous), Untreated sea grass or maize mats from Pier One or Cost Plus, Things to jump up on (they like to be in high places). Plus many other things similar to these. Especially things that make noise.

10. Rabbit's teeth are always growing. Make sure you have chew blocks of wood or something similar that they can chew on so that their teeth dont get too long.

11. If you get a longer haired rabbit, you will probably need to brush them every so often. So you need to get a brush. They should brushed every couple days is good but you could also do it a once a week. Short haired rabbits dont need to be brushed as much only when they shed. They shed every 3 months. By brushing them it helps prevent hairballs. But may need baths. Most of the shampoos that are for kittens work well for rabbits. I'm sure there are rabbit shampoos though.

12. Traveling is stressful for rabbits. Stress is bad for your rabbit. The least amout of stress the better, just like humans. Get your rabbit used to riding in the car before going on a long trip if they arent used to it (if they only ride to go to the vet). This will help decrease the stress. You may need to get a carrier. Regular cat carriers are harder to provide water to your rabbit so metal carriers are better. These are all wire cages that have a pan on the bottom for easy cleaning. They have a handle and you can easily attach a water bottle. Make sure you get everything your bunny will and might need just to be safe. There is also a possibility that they might not eat while traveling. Offer them some favorites but if they dont eat make sure they eat when you stop or get to where you are going. Make sure carriers are straped down secerly. You dont want the rabbit moving all over the back seat. This would be bad both for you and the rabbit.

13. Make sure to rabbit proof your house. Cover wires or put them up if possible or dont let them near them. Keep house plants up high because most are toxic to rabbits. Getting a pen for them to run in is better because it prevents them from ruining furniture if they insist on chewing on them ( I havent had that problem with my bunny but the cords were bad so we moved them higher up on the wall).

14. Here are some things that are bad for your rabbit and things that you should take your rabbit to the vet if you notice them. Cedar and pine shavings are bad so do not put them in your rabbits cage. If your bunny ever gets diarrhea take them to the vet immediately. It can be fatal to your rabbit. Rabbits have various kinds of diarrhea, if it's runny, messy and smelly it's easy to identify. A more subtle form of diarrhea (which does not require the urgency of runny diarrhea) is when the droppings appear to be normal, but "squash" when you touch or sweep them up. You may also see "clumpy" diarrhea. This will be the consistency of silly putty, with normal round droppings mixed in. Some others to look for are loud tummy growling, small and/or misshapen droppings or no droppings at all. Also know that some vets misdiagnose these as a hairball. So it may be best to get a second opinion when you take your rabbit to the vet.

The first indication of an infection may be a runny nose or eye, sometimes a high temperature, sometimes a rattling sound from the lungs or (rarely) a coughing sound. Take the bunny to the vet immediately if you notice this as well. If caught early they are easily cured.

Some thing you should know about rabbits is they cant throw up. They dont have the reflex so be careful. Because they cant throw up, dont ever take away your rabbits food before a surgery. This could be bad for your rabbit if it is before spaying. Some veterinarians are concerned about spaying rabbits with a full cecum. Unfortunately, the cecum would take 3-4 days of fasting to empty out, and by that time, the rabbit would be dead.

For some rabbits, their teeth are misaligned. This would cause the teeth to not wear down like they are suppose to. Then the teeth will need to be cut down so that they can eat. Take the bunny to the vet to do this.

Dont ever take amoxicillin from a vet for your rabbit. This is also fatal to rabbits. Any penicillin meds are bad as well. Safer ones are Chloramphenicol, Tetracycline, sulfa-drugs based like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxins such as Baytril or Cipro. Try to get a vet that knows about a rabbit and doesnt give you the wrong thing for your rabbit. A small animal vet would probably be best.

If your rabbits urine is ever red dont be alarmed. Their urine varies in colors. The only reason it would be bad if there were other symptoms such as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or temperature. If you arent sure if there is blood in the urine or not, its better to take them to the vet and they can check. Its better to be safe than sorry.

Thats all I can think of for now. If you have any other questions go ahead and email me or go to rabbit.org. There is a lot of information on there.

Hope I was helpful and sorry its so long. You should know as much as you can before you get a rabbit. When choosing a breed make sure you research the breeds.