What is required for a western fence lizard?

Question

I am getting a western fence lizard but before i do i need to know everything it requires. can someone help me.

Answer 1

The 'western fence lizard', 'swift', or 'blue bellied lizard' - sceloporus occidentalis - is a medium-sized (up to about eight inches including tail), mottled lizard that ranges from Washington state to Baja California, and as far east as Utah. It doesn't live in the harsh deserts, but it is found from the coast up to nearly 6,000 foot elevations, from the scrubbiest coastal chaparral to mountain forests.

It has a habit of sunning itself on high points such as rock outcroppings or fenceposts (hence the name 'fence lizard'), which makes it a fine target for hawks and other predators in its habitat. This bold and careless lifestyle has required it to develop lightning reflexes and quick-burst speed (hence the name 'swift').

Another of its defenses is the ability to change colors according to its surroundings. Like many other lizards, it can lighten or darken its coloration to match the background, but it will sometimes adopt a contrasting hue. Perhaps this mimicks a dappling of shadow, or maybe the little beast simply enjoys challenging fate. I admit the second interpretation because its underside reveals a suppressed flamboyance in its nature. Its ventral coloration is characterized by gaudy patches of blue or turquoise (hence the name 'blue-belly'). These are most pronounced in the males, and, as you might expect, become much brighter during the mating ritual.

It is a pleasant and inoffensive creature, dining mostly on insects, and in turn providing a good food source for larger predators. Successful over a wide range of habitats, it is in no way endangered. If all that were not life-affirming enough, its presence in an area reduces the incidence of ticks carrying Lyme disease from about 50% to about 5%. It seems that ticks who feed on the blood of the blue bellied lizard are unharmed, but the Lyme disease spirochetes that they harbor are destroyed.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A pair of green anoles should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 20 gallons. Taller enclosures are preferred with plants or other types of ornaments to allow the anoles space to climb. Males can not be housed together as they are territorial and will often fight over the limited amount of enclosure space. Males can be kept with one or more females and any number of females can be kept together. Obviously, larger enclosures are needed for larger groups of kept anoles. Because anoles have the ability to climb sheer surfaces, a secure top should always be used with the enclosures.

Temperature: Green anoles should be kept with ambient day temperatures of 75° to 80° F with basking temperatures of 85° to 90° F. Temperatures of 65° to 75° F are suitable at night.

Heat/Light: Green anoles require ultraviolet (UV) light which can be provided with fluorescent UVB bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs that can also provide heat for the basking spot. Basking temperatures can also be achieved using incandescent bulbs, infrared bulbs, or ceramic emitters if using fluorescent bulbs for UV light. Under the tank (UTH) heaters can be used to raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure if needed. Heat rocks, heat caves, and other similar items should never be used under any circumstance.

Substrate: Bark mulch, orchid bark, ground coconut fiber, and peat moss can all be used to help create a naturalistic enclosure. Other substrates such as newspaper, paper towels, or indoor/outdoor carpeting can also be used. If using naturalistic substrates be sure to clean it often to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Environment: Green anoles come from a tropical to semi-tropical region and require a humidity level of 60% to 70%. To achieve this part of the screen top can be blocked off to help prevent evaporation. The enclosure should also be misted twice daily to help maintain humidity levels as well.

Diet: Green anoles are insectivorous. They will eat crickets, mealworms, wax worms, cockroaches, fruit flies and other small insects. All feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded prior to feeding. Offering a variety of different insects will offer the best diet for the anole since different insects have different nutritional values. Care should be used to not overfeed anoles and they should only be offered only as much food as they can eat in one sitting.

Maintenance: Clean up f***s and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. Anoles generally do not drink from standing water which is why it is vitally important that the enclosure be misted daily. Anoles will drink from the water drops that form on the cage ornaments. An aquarium bubbler can also be used in the water dish to simulate moving water to encourage the anole to drink from the bowl.