What is the best seam finish for a linen dress?

Question

I am sewing this dress for a 4-h project and all seams must be finished. I am new to this whole sewing thing, and I need to know which seam finish would be best.

Answer 1

For "best" you're going to have to experiment, and think about style of the garment and what will suit the dress.

Choices include:

- pinking

- overcasting (by hand or machine)

- serged edges

- bound seams

- Hong Kong binding

- serger rollhemming as a seam (for handkerchief linen only)

- french seam (and mock french seam for curves) (not good for heavy fabric)

- serger french seam

- felled seams (for casual dresses, would probably be odd on a  dressy dress)

- serger felled seam

- clean finished seam (boring and bulky)

The couture choice would probably be hand overcast.  This adds a minimal bulk to the seam edge.  The fast choices would be machine overcasting, serging or pinking.  Hong Kong binding tends to impress people much more than what it costs in time and effort.  French and felled seams are heavier, but good choices for strength and durability.

Make up some samples and press them -- see what you like.

If you need more help for any of these, I'd be happy to work with you via email.  If you can provide a pattern number that you're using, that would help me.

Answer 2

If you have a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine or an overlock stitch then sew up the seams with a straight stitch and afterwards go over the seam allowances with one of the above stitches. Have fun

Answer 3

I agree with the first answerer, however a great method is to first use pinking shears to cut the fabric. They cut in a zig zag not a straight cut. This prevents further raveling of the edges. Yes straight stitch using a small stitch, not long ones. Play with your machine on scrap fabric to get a small stitch.You will see the difference. An practice too with zigzag stitches on your machine again on scraps. Write down the numbers you choose as you go so you will get the same stitches again.

Allmost all jeans are made with a flat felled seam.....Generally the best seam is a "flat-felled" seam as this will no unravel because the raw edges are encased or rolled under then stitched down with a straight stitch very close to the edge encasing the entire seam. To do that make a 3/4" seam for your seam. (This can be done on the out side of the fabric or right side) After the seam is sewn, you cut or trim only 1 of the 2 raw seam edges carefully and leaving about 1/4" of the original. You fold over the other part of the raw edge at the same time tuck it in to cover the short part then pin it nice and flat. You would be actually hemming the raw edge and hiding the other raw edge seam over the first seam.This will hide all of the raw edges and secures that seam very well. I am sure you have something in your closet or your Dad's...that is like this...it is called flat-felled seam and is the best and sturdiest seam.

This is an excellent description with photos....

http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/60...