What is the best way to make sure all tiles are even when you tile?

Question

Sorry about the mistake, but my question refers to the height of the tiles. Recently I hired a "professional" to do 200 SF in my house, and about 5-6 of them are noticeably higher and sticking out their corners, and my feet feel a little awkward when stepping on them. Ill have to fix them later, and try to learn to do tiling, for my other floors. Thanks.

Answer 1

Floor tiles are generally laid over the top of tile underlay to keep 'em level - which is basically fibre cement sheet - the thing that detemines the height of the tile would be the amount of glue.

This is generally made uniform by the use of a tiling trowel which has has stepped edges - kinda of like 1 half of a finger joint or a digital sine wave....?? descriptive huh...

To much glue in one corner and you get the problem you've got now...

Hope that helps...

Answer 2

Snap a chalk line and use that as the base for your first row of tile.  Insert spacers as you work to keep the spaces between even and the tiles perfectly aligned.

Answer 3

HI Tonny,

For an area over 50 s/f I like to use a grid.  As others have said, you can center a joint or a tile, or lay a whole tile off of the most visible wall.  Sometimes it looks best to center off of a door or a main walkway rather than the whole room.  Once you've established what size piece off of the longest wall snap a line from wall to wall.  Lay out your tiles, something close to 2' (e.g. nominal size of a 12"x12" may be 11 3/4" so two of those tiles with a 1/4" joint would be a 2' panel, but you can adjust the size of the joint and panel to suit you, 24 1/4", 24 1/8", 23 7/8", etc.).  Once you get your panel size decided, lay out parallel lines to the main drive line you have popped, making sure to get your marks closest to the wall at each end of the line for maximum accuracy.  After you've finished all parallel lines, figure out what size cut or whole tile off the perpendicular wall that is most important.  Make a mark on one of the parallel lines you've previously popped that is near a wall with a long run in an open area.  From that intersection, use Pythagorean theorem (3', 4', 5'...6', 8', 10'...12', 16', 20'...24', 32', 40'...using the largest set possible for most accuracy) by measuring the first length down the parallel line and marking an intersection (3', e.g.), rotating 90* from the same location and making a line at 4', then moving to the 3' intersection and measure/mark 5' to the 4' line creating a crosshair to pop a line through for perfectly square 90* line from your parallel lines.  Repeat the process of popping more parallel lines to have a layout of a perfect grid to lay your tiles in.  You'll need to always lay to the same corner of all the panels, with one tile "on" two lines, two tiles "on" one line, and one tile "off" two lines for a four tile panel (you are essentially eyeballing the two perpendicular joints in the center of the panel).  I like to spray all my lines with clear spray to guarantee they won't be erased.  This gives you the freedom to make all your cuts in advance, and have more than one installer laying in separate places on the floor and everyone meet up perfectly.  This is a superior method to using spacers, as only select tiles go through a rectification process to size them perfectly.  Tiles are just like bricks, they are baked in a kiln and their final size but a guess not a guarantee.  If you were to use spacers on an area 100' long and had 10* of your tiles an 1/8" smaller than the rest you'd be out of square over an inch at the end, extremely noticeable.

**oh, well in the case of tiles not level...

If there are tiles with lippage greater than the thickness of a dime, the installer should fix it, UNLESS he made you aware the floor was not level, offered to include fixing it in his price, and you declined.  Sometimes it is hard to tell if there should be extra preparation, but a good installer will either check it before beginning, or take the time to level as he lays.  Backerboard will not level the floor.  If you have a joist that has sagged or was installed being the only one crown up in an area, you may need to either remove the subfloor and plane it, or build up the rest of the room with leveler or skim.  Bottom line, if you're trippin' over it, it should be fixed.  Have some mercy, though.  You'd be amazed at the poor qualtiy of lumber and the pain of trying to work around it.  On the other hand, a guy being paid to perform a task should do it correctly unless this is some type of "favor".

Answer 4

It is critical that you establish accurate working lines. You are creating a kind of a map to follow to assure an attractive, quality job. All working lines should be bold and easy to see. What you are seeking is a layout that enables you to lay your tile so that there will be full size tiles in high visibility areas, and all edge (border) tiles are at least 1/2 tile or more.



First, make a dry-run for the layout by running dry tiles out from the two most visible walls to see which would work best with your room.

If the tiles at the end of each row (border tiles) are less than half a tile width, adjust the row by moving it the width of half a tile. This will assure you that all the cut tiles will be more than half a tile width.

Also, check to see that the corner that you are working off is square. If it isn't, tack battens to the floor that are squared accurately a tile width from the corner. Use a framing square and chalk line for this process. The line closest to the wall is established by snapping a line one tile length away from the wall along both walls that you're working off of. Then snap another line parallel to it that is the thickness of two grout lines. (This way you are allowing for the grout line along the wall and for the next row of tiles.)

Then nail battens made from 1x2's or 1x3's along that working line so you have a firm position to start running our tiles. Make sure your battens form a right angle and are straight.

Later, once the tiles are laid in the field, remove the battens and tile along the edges, cutting the tiles if necessary. REMEMBER, when you are cutting tiles always leave room for the grout line.  

Answer 5

Start from a snap line in the center and work out from the center if you have never done it before. Snap several lines at equal heights and measure at each course to maintain even spacing if you cannot use spacers and the tiles are kind of "rustic". If it takes you all day to lay it out, figure where every grid space/tile is located, it will be a day well spent. Visually adjusting/tweaking is permitted with rustic tiles as long as you maintain level. With spaced (rubber spacers) tiles a little push with the level may be necessary, occasionally, just don't be too aggressive. Tiles that merely stack up are very precisely made.

Answer 6

As they say, "Measure twice, cut once."  This applies to tile also.  Establish the centerline of your room or space both directions, and determine if this is the middle of a tile or a joint.  (Will you have more or less than half a tile when you reach the edge?)  Then lay out, using spacers, checking frequently, and only grouting when it is PERFECT!

Good luck -- it is worth the extra effort.

Answer 7

a chalk line would be the best. you can pick one up at a hardware store for less than $10.00 ps there also great to have around the house for other projects!

Answer 8

spacers in between the tiles buy em at b@q

ot match sticks between them

Answer 9

Every time I've seen tile being installed, plastic spacers were used to space the tiles uniformly. These were later removed before grouting.