What is the oil capacity of a 1970 johnson 60hp outboard?

Question

I just got the boat and motor recently and want to tune it up the best I can. The oil in the lower unit is a white milky color and needs to be changed. Also, if anyone has any more helpful tips and tricks I am open to suggestions.

Answer 1

Drain the old gear lube by opening both of the vent holes. Get yourself one of those pumps that will hand pump the new lube into the lower unit. Buy a one quart bottle. Put the pump in the lower hole leaving the upper hole open. Pump and pump and pump until lube leaks out the top. Put the top s***w in, now get ready to move quick, remove the pump from the lower hole and replace the s***w quickly. You are good to go. And! Don't forget the little teflon gaskets on the vent screws.

Good luck

Answer 2

First, make sure which type of shift system your outboard is.  This can be done by taking your outboard's serial number and model number on the transom plate to an OMC dealer or OMC service shop.

If it is electric shift, then you need to get a different gear oil specified by OMC to use.  Do NOT use regular lower unit gear oil on an electric shift outboard.

If it is regular mechanical shift outboard, then fill will regular lower unit gear oil.

Since you have leaking in your gearcase, first buy replacement felt washers for your drain and vent plug.

I might be repeating a few things already mentioned, but there are some important bits of info that need to be stated.

ALL lower units with one vent plug and one drain plug, regardless of the model or type is filled from the drain plug hole at the bottom.  I recommend you use a lower unit pump for the job, it makes this go very fast and much easier.

Remove the old felt washers on the vent and drain plugs and put the new felt washers on the vent and drain plugs.

NEVER FILL from the vent plug hole, this leaves air in the lower unit, and air in the lower unit is a VERY bad thing.

Start and keep pumping the lube in the drain plug hole until the lube runs out of the vent plug hole, make sure it comes out strong enough to cover the entire hole, so air cannot enter the lower unit.  As soon as that happens, put the vent plug in the vent plug hole.  Put it on snug but don't overtighten.

With the vent plug installed, you now do not have to be lightning quick to get the drain plug installed.  However, get the drain plug in your hand ready to install.  As soon as you remove the gear lube bottle or (hopefully) the tip of the pump, put the drain plug back on quickly.  Again, put it snug but don't overtighten.

Finally, to make sure you do not have a serious leak in your lower unit, you need to take it out for 1 or 2 outings.  Immediately after this, you need to unscrew the drain plug enough to get a small but significant sample of the gear oil.

If its milky again you have a bad seal somewhere, I'd guess the drive shaft seal or if a split gearcase, the main spagetti seal.

If you pull your lower unit or try to replace the impeller, get a manual for this.  You might get it right on by taking it slow and guessing a few times, but its best to play it safe and get the service manual for your outboard's model and year.

Answer 3

If my memory serves me right , it's 20 oz.   I remember you had to buy 2 tubes, and didn't use it all.  OMC used a type C hydraulic oil in this unit.

Answer 4

turenorth hit it on the head.  Just make sure that if it's an electric shift, as I think that one may be, use type C lubricant or ATF, not standard gear oil.  I know from years of experience that automatic transmission fluid is a good alternative to Type C, and a third the cost.  OMC used to dye it blue and call it type C lube.

After you've had a chance to use the boat a time or two, change it again and make sure you don't have milky oil.  This would indicate that more water has come in, and you may have a bad seal on either the prop shaft or the drive shaft.  Also, be very careful to watch the temperature and/or cooling indicator stream.  If need be, drop the gearcase and replace the water pump impeller.  It's $30 an an hour or two to do it, depending on how handy you are, but a bad pump will destroy your engine.