What is the price for a baby bearded dragon at petco?What things do I need?, and how much gallon tank for them

Question

plz write a list of things

thankz

Answer 1

DO NOT BUY FROM PETCO/PETSMART!!!!!!!!!!! they dont take care of their animals. i got a beardie from petsmart and it died two weeks later.

Answer 2

A beardie makes a great pet.  They cost $59 at Petco, but you may be able to save a few dollars if you find a local breeder.  You'll need a 20 gallon tank to start and will need to upgrade it in time to a larger tank.  You'll also need a UV light and heat.  The pet store clerk can help you find what's right. It will eat veggies, fruit, mealworms, and crickets.  It can be a little pricy to feed unless you already have the fruits & veggies as a staple in your kitchen.  They make wonderful pets!

Answer 3

At they local Petco they are $79.99.

It is REALLY expensive to start with a smaller tank because none of the lighting or heating will work on a larger tank so you have to start from scratch. Again. (yes, I've done this...which it why I'm advising against it)

Every single dimension of the tank/enclosure should be at least the full length of the beardie-otherwise movement (especially turning around) is extremely uncomfortable for them. 55 gallon tanks aren't wide enough front to back for any beardie older than a couple months even though the total area is good. Either go with a 40 gallon "breeder" (36"x18"x16") or a tank that is at least 70 gallons as everything else will make it difficult for a beardie to turn around in. Even 40 breeders are too small for a single German Giant adult. Even for babies never use anything smaller than a 20 gallon long as smaller tanks (and 20 talls) get too hot quickly without giving enough space for the babies to get out of the heat. A lot of beardies have been killed this way. If a beardie keeps it's mouth open it's too hot-doing so right under the basking light is one thing, doing so anywhere else in the cage means that you have an emergency on your hands (it's either too hot or it's sick and needs to go to the vet's).

Don't keep beardies together unless you are certain that they are all female and that the tank has at least 40 gallons per beardie (preferably a 125 gallon tank for two or three females).

For any size tank, you'll need a UVB specific tube style bulb (within 12" of the basking spot) like reptisun 10.0. You'll also need a basking light and an undertank heating pad on one end of the tank. NEVER use 'hot rocks' as they regularly cause serious burns because the beardies can't tell they are too hot until long after it's too late. You need to set up a temperature gradient in the tank that *ranges* between 75 and 85 degrees so that the beardie can choose what temperature it wants. The basking area should have options (ie: a branch for resting at different heights) between 95 and 105.

Don't use sand until it is 8 months old (nearly full grown) it is better to use calcium sand because it is softer and doesn't have silica dust that is similar to asbestos. Calcium sand WILL NOT provide any calcium for a beardie because it isn't quite in a useful form no matter how much it may digest.

Rember to dust all crickets with calcium for beardies under 8 months, also at that age they should be eating at least a dozen crickets of the right size once a day, more often if under 12". Babies need to be eating almost constantly. Adults only need food dusted about once a week because they are no longer growing.

Answer 4

50$ Petco Even let me hand feed them but they bit me. Bearded dragons are they coolest lizards in the world!!!! But you'll need a 50+ Gallon tank when they grow.

Answer 5

There are many places to buy a Bearded Dragon from with the prices varying accordingly. Do your research online, there are many sites dedicated to their upkeep. An adult Beardy will need a 4' vivarium with UV light and heating to one end and a cooler spot at the other. A beardy without a cool spot can overheat and die. Read up on diet as they can eat both insects and vegetables. Infact they will need both to stay healthy. Talk it over with whatever pet store you choose - and if they cannot answer your questions go somewhere else as being given the wrong advice can be potentially dangerous to your pet, especially if you are unfamiliar with reptiles.

However having said that a bearded dragon makes an excellent pet and a great starter reptile

Answer 6

Read about them before you get one.  Get at least a 50 gallon breeder tank..they grow quickly.  Google bearded dragon care.

Answer 7

At petco, the beardies generally cost $40-$50, depending on whether or not they are having a sale. The following is my bearded dragon care sheet that I have compiled over the past year. I hope it helps you!

.:HEATING/LIGHTING:.

A bearded dragon will need to be kept in a minimum of a 55 gallon tank. The general rule of thumb is “the bigger, the better” (for adults). This needs to be more ground area than height. Put a UVA/UVB light across the back of the tank, and put a basking lamp on one end of the tank. Make sure the lights used produce enough UVA/UVB to help the beardie produce the vitamins/nutrients necessary to keep them healthy. Insufficient UV can result in the development of MBD, AKA Metabolic Bone Disease. This is much like Osteoporosis in humans, and can immobilize/kill the beardie. There has been a rise in problems resulting from the use of certain UV bulbs; A really good one to use is the Zoomed Reptisun 10.0 bulb (lower #s are not strong enough!). For hatchlings, the basking temperature should be between 105-110 degrees F and the opposite end ("cool down" or regular temp.) needs to be between 75-85 degrees. For adults, the basking temp. should be between 90-105 degrees F and the cool down temp should be low to mid 80's. At night, you can turn off all heat/lights as long as the temperature will stay above 60 degrees. Never let night-time temps drop below 60 degrees! Your beardie could freeze to death! Put a digital thermometer on each side of the tank and make sure it never gets too hot or too cold. The lights need to be on for 14 hours a day, and can be turned off at night if temperatures are above 65 degrees. buy a timer to do this for you. Do not use stick-on thermometers; they tend to be VERY inaccurate. To read temperatures, use a temp gun or, as I stated earlier, a digital thermometer. Make sure it can read the temperature within about 2 degrees of the actual temp. It is recommended that you allow your beardie to enjoy supervised time outside is natural sunlight, as long as the temperatures are appropriate.

.:SUBSTRATE:.

Substrates tend to be a huge topic amongst experienced owners; people argue that sand is good, that carpet is good, wood chips are bad, calcium sand is good, etc. Don’t worry about this; many owners simply avoid “particulate”, or loose, substrates. This includes sand, woodchips, and crushed walnut shells. Carpet can snag tiny claws, so don’t bother buying it. Put a baby dragon on paper towels or non-stick padded shelf liner, and if you want, move it to tile when it gets bigger. If you choose to use tile, get an “unfinished” tile that can help file down their claws.

.:FOOD:.

Bearded dragon food isn’t as much of an issue as you may think. First of all, babies need 20% veggies and 80% insects in their diet. You can give them crickets, phoenix worms, freshly molted meal worms, or small silk worms. Crickets need to be dusted with calcium. You can use a calcium/D3 blend. A good calcium supplement is Rep-Cal (pink bottle), and a good multivitamin is Herptivite (blue bottle). Phoenix worms and silkworms, however, are naturally packed with protein and calcium, so they don’t need to be dusted. Do not feed your beardie anything that you caught outside, since wild-caught insects can carry illnesses or have ingested some level of pesticides. Never feed it anything larger than the space between the beardie’s eyes. Veggies can include kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, and collard greens as staples, then some other things added to make a salad. This includes prickly pear cactus leaves (Nopales), bell pepper, occasional berries, and any type of squash imaginable.

Check out the color-coded nutrition guide at www. beautifuldragons. com for more food ideas and nutrition content. Below is a good feeding pattern to follow.

**HATCHLINGS (up to 2 months).**

~Mist / Spray - 2-3 times daily with distilled water

~Young Insects - feed 2 or 3 times daily - Calcium dust once every day and 2-3 times with a multivitamin. Insects should never be any larger than the space between a Beardie's eyes.

~Greens/Vegetables - every day - DO NOT dust

**JUVENILES(approx. 2-6 months)**

~Insects - 1 or 2 times daily; Dust every other day with Calcium and 2-3 times a week with Multivitamins.

~Greens/Vegetables in the morning every day - DO NOT dust

**SUB-ADULTS & ADULTS (7 months +)**

~Insects 2 or 3 times weekly - Calcium dust once a week and vitamins once or twice monthly.

~Greens/Vegetables - every day - DO NOT dust.

*Do not feed your beardie within 3 hours of bed-time, since it takes a long time to digest food.*

.:WATER/BATHING:.

Many people choose to use a water dish in the tank. However, it is strongly advised that you DO NOT do this; the heat will evaporate the water, causing the beardie to contract a respiratory infection from the humidity. Most people choose to mist their bearded dragons instead of risking the respiratory infection. Mist it once or twice daily, and hold the misting bottle near its face, allowing the beardie to drink from a small stream of water. Don’t mist the entire tank; only the lizard. This is especially useful when it sheds. Buy a humidity gauge to monitor humidity levels. The in-tank humidity needs to stay around 20%.

Bearded dragons need to be bathed weekly; to do so, get a plastic bucket and fill it with shallow water (to the elbows for babies, and to the shoulders for adults. Let the beardie soak for 10-20 minutes once a week. This also gives you enough time to really clean out the tank.

.:SEXING:.

Generally, it is very difficult to s*x a bearded dragon that is under 6 months old. Regardless, here are some basic ways to figure out if yours is male or female.

*Male Characteristics*:

~Males have a large, defined triangular head.

~Generally males have a more defined and larger beard and jawline.

~Tail is thicker at the base, and tapers down to the tip.

~If you gently lift the tail towards the head, a male should have two bulges right above the vent, forming an "hourglass" shape.

*Female Characteristics*

~Females have narrower, slightly longer heads that are more well-proportioned to their body than that of a male.

~Narrower tail base that tapers evenly to the tip.

~Usually have wider, flatter bodies.

~When the tail is gently lifted towards the head, there will be either one bulge above the vent, or none at all.

When lifting the tail, be careful and do not pull it too far, or the tail can break.

.:BREEDING:.

*Note: It is recommended that unless you really know what you're doing (not to mention have alot of money!), don't attempt to breed, since it can end in disaster. *

Females can produce eggs whether they have mated or not. These eggs are not fertile, and need to be disposed of. A lay box IS necessary, or egg binding can result. Be sure to provide a large tub with about 8-10 inches of soil (vermiculite free!). The soil needs to be just damp enough that it holds together when moved (test it by gently shoving a fist into it; the soil should not "cave in".)

.:CLEANING:.

f***s need to be removed when ever they are present. They can be wiped off any surface with ease. Once a month, the tank needs a thorough cleaning, and the substrate needs to be replaced. To clean, you should use Nolvasan. Nolvasan has no harmful fumes, and is great for disinfecting/deodorizing the tank.

.:OTHER:.

For basking purposes, beardies need a rock, log, or branch to sit on. One great idea is to buy a log half from a pet store so it has a basking area and a hiding place. You can also make your own custom basking spot by following the directions at www.beautifuldragons.com; click the "homemade platforms" link. Do not use heating pads or self-heating rocks because they will burn the beardie’s belly!!! The heat receptors are located on top of its head, so your beardie can’t detect high temperatures easily under its body.

Try to keep the tank as empty as possible; avoid crowding it with accessories, and allow the beardie enough room to move.

When you first get your bearded dragon, try not to handle it for the first 4 days. It needs some time to get used to its new surroundings. Remember to buy everything BEFORE you buy the lizard.

After the first 4 days, handle it for a couple minutes each day, until it gets used to you.

With these tips, you should have a fairly easy time caring for your new bearded dragon.

**RECOMMENDED MATERIALS**

-UV lighting: Zoomed Reptisun 10.0

-Basking light: Duramax "Spot" bulb (available at Home Depot)

-Calcium/D3: Rep-Cal Calcium with Vitamin D3 phosphorous free (pink bottle)

-Multivitamin: Herptivite Multivitamin (Blue bottle)