What is the quickest, most efficient way to install closet doors on a track for a 40 year old house?

Question

I am purchasing an older home (about 40 years old), and the measurements of most of the closets are taller and wider than standard, newer homes (approximately 144 inches wide and 95 inches high). The previously-installed closets were on tracks and bi-folded. What would you recommend I use as replacement closet doors for these? Also, I need them before Monday (two full days from now).

Answer 1

Wow.. nothing like waiting til the last minute, hehehehe

Ok, you've got two options as I see it, and not knowing where you are....

First, have custom doors made.  The hardware for bi-fold and sliding doors can be found at most hardware and building supply stores.  Extra wide openings can sometimes be filled in with multiple narrow doors.

Second option is to fill in the door frame, so standard doors will fit.  You might lower just the height, to fit standard height doors, and use multiple doors - that would probably be the quickest compromise between custom built doors and standard doors.

Either choice tho, is unlikely to happen by Monday, seeing as this is Friday night/Saturday morning.  It takes time to make custom doors, and it takes time to frame in an opening.  Assuming you have just straight drywall on your walls (no texturing, no paneling, etc), youve got to have the space framed in, drywall attached, dryall mud applied, sanded, and reapplied, and do it again... just to get a good smooth finish.  Then you have to prime it, and then paint it.  Youve got a day's dry time between each coat of mud, another day between the primer and paint, if you want it done properly.  "Hot set" mud will set up quicker, and may save a couple of days....but only a couple of days.  You've still got the labor time, and dry time of the primer and paint... and again.. thats assuming there is no texture... oh... and that the trim can be found easily, if there is any.

I'd suggest you start calling contractors, or handymen businesses (Note- I said BUSINESS) if you want to hire it out, but don't be surprised if they tell you it can't be done by Monday, at this late of a start.  Your other choice is to go down to your local building supply store, and see what is available, and if they will install.  Again.... it may not happen by Monday.

Good Luck

Additional:

Hi Elaine - YA is not allowing me to reply to your email, because the subject line is too long, and it won't let me change the subject line, hehehe.

Ok, you've got Accordian type doors to go in - What you need to do now, is frame in the space over the doors, so they will mount at the correct height - this is called 'lowering the header'.  If your wall is 2x4 construction, then that is what I would use to make the new header.  I would use 3 horizontals at the full width of the opening, and fill in the vertical with short lengths of 2x4, starting at the ends, and working towards the center, with one at every 16" on center.  If for any reason you have to buy shorter length 2x4s to run the full width, then use 2 of the verticals at the joint, to give it some added strength.

You don't want to leave just a 2x4 exposed for the track to attach too... so that means either a trim facia, or piece of drywall.  Either way works fine, its just a matter of appearance.  The drywall would probably be faster, because you've got to fill in the face of the framing with drywall already.  You say the new door needs an opening at 80 inches high, the current opening is 95 inches high.  So, you need to make up 15 inches.  To get that vertical 2x4 measurement, you want to subtract the thickness of the drywall (or trim), and the 3 layers of 2x4 that make up the horizontal pieces.  Most 2x4's are anywhere from 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" thick... so you need to measure what you are going to use.  Let's assume for the sake of an example, they are exactly 1 1/2" thick - that means youve got 4 1/2", plus the drywall (assume it is 1/2")... thats 5 inches of material to deduct from the 15" you need to make the new header, therefore the vertical pieces would be 10 inches long.

By the way, the easiest way to measure for 2x4 thickness, is to just lay all three right next to each other, and measure the total, heheh.

When you go to assemble the header (I prefer screws), and set it in place, remember, you need to set it back, by the thickness of the drywall.  If we assume you are using 1/2" drywall, then the header assembly will need to be 1/2" back from the surrounding wall surface.  You may or may not decide to drywall the backside of the new header.  If you wanted too... then I'd use the same thickness drywall as is currently on the walls... a 40 yr old home - that's likely to be 3/4"

If you chose to use drywall to skin out the header, you'll want a corner bead (a thin metal, or plastic piece of corner trim, which makes getting a nice clean edge on the corner much easier -- just ask for it when you select the drywall)  I'd prime and paint the wall before installing the doors.  Measure twice, cut once, as the old saying goes... double check all measurements, hehehe.

This IS something you can do yourself, but it might be faster to hire it out.  I'm all for 'do it yourself', hehehe.  A second pair of hands will be a big help.  As to the comment about not using a 'handyman' by another poster.... it all comes down to the individual, and the quality of their work, and choice of materials.  I've seen very good work done by 'handypersons', and I've seen some very unprofessional work by licensed pro's... being a contractor myself, I've had the joy (NOT, lol) of having to clean up some messes made by both types of workers.  So... don't rush - ask for references and CHECK THEM.  Take a good look at the individual - are they clean and neat looking?  Do they look and sound like they know what they are doing?  If so, then ask for examples of their previous work, and go look at the work... don't just look at a few photo's - go see the jobs they did, and talk to the previous customer.  I've heard some real horror stories over the years, hehehe.

If you want to send me your email, I can send you a quick sketch of what the header assembly should look like.

Oh, just one more note -- You actually have several options with how to cover the header.... drywall and paint as already mentioned, or you could use a piece of wood, and stain/finish it, you could use carvings to dress it up, or even fretwork.  Lots of options, hehehe.

Have Fun  :)

Answer 2

I run into this alot in remodeling and this is what I do:

I lower the headers to the appropriate height and install a door system.  You change/alter the heights/widths two ways:

1. devise a trim that closes the gap, or -

2. refame and replaster or drywall the opening to the desired width(s).  

Either way, hire a "professional" remodeler or trim carpenter, NOT a handyman type, to do this if you want professional results.  As I tell everyone, look at the person proposing to do the work; look at him, his truck, his tools, and that'll tell you if he's a pro. . . the pro will have professional grade equipment, not Ryobi or Black & Decker tools stocked in 5 gallon buckets.  If he doesn't have a reputation and is not known for quality work ask for references and follow up, checking them out; and always look at the jobs they've done to see if that claimed statement of quality meets or exceeds your expectations.

Mike Lonergan

TradesProfessional, Inc.

http://www.tradesprofessional.com