Question:

What is your Bowling strategy and ball weight for a good score?

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A. Light (7-10 lb)

B. Medium (10-14 lb)

C. Heavy (14-16 lb)

Specifically refer to ten-pin Bowling. This is what I do - while rolling an angle hook for isolated pins, heavier balls seem to have more impact/stability but it leads to finger spraining. For first-frame strikes (X), a lighter ball delivered through the middle of the lane is easier. Of course, there are those with a "macho" syndrome who prefer the heavy ball everytime.

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  1. A 14-16 pound ball for strikes, hitting the headpin at an angle of about six degrees (this requires at least some hook), about two inches off the center, has been tested to produce the highest possibility of striking.  It has nothing to do with a "macho" syndrome.  There is a very good reason why every player on the PBA Tour uses a 14-to-16 pound ball.  Some have dropped down from 16 only because with the newest ball technology, some of the heaviest balls actually hit TOO hard.  Still, under 14 pounds, the ball cores are actually constructed differently, so the ball movement is not the same.  I personally use 16.

    Lighter balls will deflect off the pins, so they can't consistently drive through the pocket.  The ball has to play the pins, not the other way around.  Lighter balls will often take a solid pocket hit, but deflect too much off the headpin.  This will leave a five-pin or a 5-8 when a heavier ball would have driven through and taken out the 5.  I've known many bowlers who have physically been unable to use the heavier balls, and have had to resign themselves to frequently leaving 5-pins.  They can't do anything about it.

    When delivering a properly-drilled ball with a fluid release, no matter what the weight, the risk of finger injury is minimal.  Many top bowlers have been able to throw over 100 games a week for decades without significant injury.

    For spares, I simply take a low-hook, rubber or plastic ball, same ball weight as my strike ball so it doesn't throw off my timing.  I roll the ball as straight as I possibly can, ideally hearing the ball thumping over the thumb hole as it rolls.  This is because with a straight ball, the lane oil condition does not matter at all, and there's no guesswork.

    As for corner-pin spares (isolated pins), try rolling the ball across the lane, in a diagonal direction.  This gives you more margin for error.  If you try to roll the ball straight up the edge of the lane, it doesn't take much to miss the pin.  Again, roll it as straight as possible so it doesn't hook unpredictably.  Use that hook for strikes, but not for easy spares.


  2. I bowl with 14 lb. equipment and have no problem with pin carry or picking up corner or single pin spares with my reactive resin or solid reactive bowling balls.

    Anyways, this is my "strategy" or "usual routine" when bowling during league and in tournaments.

    1.  When shadow bowling during league or tournament practice, if I have an empty pin deck (i'm righthanded), I'll practice my angle to the 10 pin or to the 1-3 pocket for a simulated strike even though the 10 pin or full rack is not there.  It helps with visualization and with targeting.

    2.  I have all of my 14 lb. bowling balls drilled either RICO (brunsnick.com has a video and explanation of that exotic drilling) or exotic aggressive drillings to start early roll and massive hook into the pocket.  That way, the pin action in addition to the aggressive coverstock and core shape compensates for using a lighter ball.

    3.  Even with my aggressive coverstock reactive resin or particle bowling balls, I can easily pick up single corner pins by breaking my wrist down so that only forward roll and a straight shot is the result or I will use a backup delivery if the lane is breaking down to ensure that it hooks into the 10 pin with no problem.  When I pick up the 7 pin, I'll throw a hook shot from either the 15 board or from the right gutter, depending on how the lanes are reacting.

    4.  Using heavier equipment is not a sign of being "macho", but usually is a sales pitch from some pro shop operators to potential first time buyers when they mention that high profile professionals are using those weights and expensive bowling balls, but unbeknownst to the buyer, the pros get them for free while we have to pay for them.....  Also, most bowlers stay away from 16 lb. equipment because it's too heavy and experienced bowlers can strike with lighter bowling balls as well.

    5.  Most of all, when faced with single pin spares, straighter trajectory balls are the best and will definitely help if you are good at targeting.  If in doubt, a hook ball into a single pin leave works as well, but only if you give enough room for the ball to hook and hit the pin, otherwise you'll miss it.

    Just have fun on the lane, observe experienced bowlers when they pick up spares and just experiment and make your game your own.  Good luck!  

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