What light metering technique can you recoming for shooting motobikes with Velvia 50 on sunny day?

Question

Hey guys, I just wanted to hear some recommendations for shooting motocycles on the sunny day using Velvia 50 slide film? So, one thing I understand is that Velvia and slide films in general do not allow of very much variance in exposure, meaning that even /- 1/2 EV can make a bit difference between "correct" and "incorrect" exposure (not considering an artistic nature of a photographer). What would you meter when shooting such bright and flashy subject like a motobike? Gray card? Or would you use a reflective light meter to measure in between highlights and shadows? Would you use a spot meter of entire scene and get an average of readings? I am sure there are multipe way to get it right, and I am sure that some of you having more experience can probably do it without much effort, but for me, as a begining photographer, what would you recommend for this type of shoot?

Thank you

Answer 1

I have a pretty good amount of experience & can tell you there's 2 main ways:

1)  Meter or Sunny 16 rule

2)  Experience from shooting under the same conditions many times, with the same film

Pick a side of the track & be consistent -- ex: sun behind you lighting the riders, or sun behind the riders.  As long as you keep this rule consistent, you only need to worry about focus, action & the right moment!  

If you go with sun behind you, the sunny 16 rule is correct (or an incident light reading -- regardless of how shiny the bikes may be).  I have a friend who started his career shooting motocross -- now moved on to the big leagues with the big name automobile companies.  That is exactly how he would meter.  If Velvia is not fast enough, try pushing it a stop -- the results are still beautiful.  If your results are a little light or dark consistently, adjust your EI accordingly.  Try to buy your Velvia in bricks -- so that once you figure out the right EI, they'll be the same for every roll.

Trying to meter highlight & shadow is impractical for something as dynamic as motocross.  The angles constantly change causing different intensities of highlights & shadows.  The dirt & dust in the air will also cut down & change those reflective values.  Plus, that type of "zone system" metering you are talking about works better with 4x5 -- because you only get those same values if you process for the contrast range of the highlight & shadows.  With roll films, that means compromising every other shot for the one shot you want to be exposed perfectly.  

If you go with the sun behind the rider, incident metering is still the best.  A close second to that is the spot meter -- difficult though.

If you've never really shot motocross or transparency -- I'd strongly recommend you start with something faster & cheaper.  Or, use a roll of Velvia & try to photograph kids on a bicycle.  If that's too easy (exposure, focus, composition & action wise) -- then you're ready!

Good Luck!  

Answer 2

For starters, I'd shoot Provia 100 and push it two EV. Yes you gain contrast, however Provia is specifically designed to be pushed.

Secondly, your subject is what you meter not the entire scene. Nail the exposure of the subject, and let the rest fall where it may. Your correct in acknowledging the narrow exposure latitude of slide film, which is why it's not a good choice for this type of shoot.

Make sure your subject is in full sun if you hope to freeze action, high shutter speeds drive wide apertures, so watch your DOF. I hope your shooting a fast telephoto...

I almost always will use my CW meter in my Nikons, at least for this type of subject. Also remember the reflective value of different colors, a white bike may meter significantly different from a red or green bike, and most definitely a black bike. I suppose a grey card might be your safest bet, just make sure you meter it in the same light as your subject, and you might go in "Shutter Priority" and use enough shutter speed to freeze motion.

Answer 3

http://www.camerareview.com/templates/su...

G o with the sunny sixteen rule here and if you don't like those results- bracket up and down until you find the right exposure-

sometimes light meters are morons!  

Answer 4

I have learned how to trust my light meter when shooting chromes.  For all but extreme wide angle lenses, I use the center weighted metering mode on my Nikons .... from the old Nikkormat to my latest F5 ... I can nail the exposure every time.  Actually the same holds true when using my Nikon DSLR's, they meter exactly the same way my 35 mm Nikon's do.

When shooting using 20 mm or wider lenses, I use the spot meter on my F5 because I can control the exposure just a little better