What makes a wave unride-able? What characteristics are vital in a surf break?

Question

I know it is two questions, but they are related. I can't figure it out. I am a beginner to the sport and chosen to longboard, and since they can catch nearly any hump in the water, I can't understand why more areas aren't being surfed. The video linked here shows guys having a really good time with very little swell. So I really wonder what does it take to be a surf-able wave.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--sZ_mUse84

Answer 1

You now owe me the minute of my life back that i spent watching that video.  Seriosuly though, I have nothing against longboarding, it's just not for me.  Moves are just too labored and bulky.  The only really stylish thing is nose riding.  A shortboard has so much more maneuverability and performance potential.

** edit

True story John F.  There are plenty of days around here where the waves barely touch 1-2 ft but as long as there is some decent push, I always bring out a shortboard.  I have a 6-10 Merrick Flyer II that handles the small east coast waves pretty well enough.  Drop down to a 6-4 custom when it's firing.  Again, I really have nothing against longboarding.  To each his own.  That post was my attempt at humor.  Guess it didn't read that way.

Answer 2

In general, it depends on the swell period, wave height and wind velocity/direction. Ideally, you want offshore winds, which is the wind blowing off the shore out over the ocean, because they shape the wave. Onshore winds (winds blowing on to the shore) are bad, they leave the wave mushy and possibly unrideable. In order for a wave to break, it needs to break over something, either a sandbar or reef (reef doesn't always mean coral reef, it can also mean reef rock, and technichally a sandbar is a reef, but...) so obviously the reef cannot be too far below or above the wave, otherwise it won't break. This is where tides come in, so you need to figure out the best tides for the surf spot, and you can find tides/surf reports online at www.magicseaweed.com or www.surfline.com. Along with wind velocity and wind duration, the fetch length is a key element in fundamental generating of waves. The fetch is the area across the ocean over which a wind with a consistent direction generates waves and all around sea state. It's mostly used to determine wave heights and wave periods in a storm or wave generating area.

As a longboarder, you have the opportunity to catch waves even before shortboarders start to padde for them. Longboarders can ride waves that shortboarders just cannot ride, some of the smallest, mushiest waves ever. So there aren't many waves that are unrideable for a longboarder (well, you can't just padde out when its totally flat, but you get what I mean).

Having fun in the water doesn't always depend on the waves, more so for longboarders, but in general for all surfers. Sure, we'd all prefer perfect, glassy, hollow sets all day, but surfing is still fun without getting gnarly waves. Especially on the east coast, where if you only have fun surfing when the waves are at their best, you're going to be pretty unhappy most of the time. Just being out in the water and feeling that connection to the ocean and to the other surfers can be satisfying enough.

B-Money, I agree that watching longboarding movies can be pretty lame, but check out Glass Love and Litmus, two movies (not totally about longboarding) that are pretty sick.

Answer 3

Forgive me if I can't quote the physics behind the concept, but the wave has to have enough power (energy?) and the surfboard has to slide across the surface of the wave. The energy is almost as important as the size. (Don't forget, the water doesn't change location in a wave, it simply moves in place) I have surfed waves lots smaller than those on a long board. Of course that  because I drove 2 or 3 hours to go surfing, so I wasn't just going to sit on the beach and get a tan. There are lots of places, where a long board is just about the only option, because like you said, "they can catch nearly any hump in the water."

Take note of B-money's Answer. Some folks just don't want to ride a long board, and I guess if they choose to sit on the beach, that's okay, I just don't get enough surfing days, or have enough surfing days left to pass up a session. The waves in the video are pretty small, but knee high is not that unusual on the east coast of the US in summer. But it is certainly ride-able.

I  bet B-money has carved more than a few waves that small on his shortboard if he lives in Charleston, because there are lots of days that size in his neck of the woods.

Answer 4

well, it can mean they are to small( small wave break to fast) to big. really choppy maybe the shape of the wave isn't right. lots of different things.

ALSO IF IT'S A  FLAT DAY!

Answer 5

If the beach is rocky, if the waves close out quickly, if the beach is more easily accessible... if its a good spot nothing will stop people from surfing there, but a tiny rocky beach 5 miles from the road won't attract crowds. The average surfer prefers bigger waves, but its fun to mess around on little waves occasionally.