What to feed my beard dragon BABY?

Question

i have crickets but he eats little of them. And he eats none of his bearded dragon pellets. What can i feed it? fruit? lettuce?

Answer 1

Things that would be very good for beardies are:

Alfalfa plant not sprout,  Dandelion greens

Endive,  Escarole,  Prickly Pear

Collard greens,  Mustard Greens,  Silkworms

Any kinds of Squash,  Turnip greens.

Never/rarely feed to beardies

Avacados-never,  Bananas-rarely,  canned soybeens-rarely

Beet Greens-rarely,  Beets-rarely,  Broccoli-rarely

Wheat Bran-never,  Cauliflower-rarely,  Yellow Corn-rarely

Egg whole or hard boiled-rarely,  Kiwi-rarely

red leaf/romain lettuce-rarely,  meal worms-rarely

olives-rarely,  Parsley-rarely,  Green Peas-rarely

Pomegranate-rarely,  Sweet/Russet potatoes (cooked)-rarely

Raspberries-rarely,  Rhubarb-never

brown/long grain rice-rarely,  Rutabaga-rarely

Brussel Sprouts-rarely,  Red Tomatoes-rarely

Some fruits that you can feed them occasionally

Pealed Apples,  fresh blackberries,  fresh blueberries,  Cantaloupe,  Cranberries,  Grapes (red and green),  Grapefruit,  fresh mango,  canned or fresh pineapple,  fresh plums,  strawberries,  amd watermelon.

Hope this helped out a lot!

Answer 2

ok im prolly a pretty good person that will be able to help you with this. but you have to respond to me via e-mail so i can help you raise a healthy baby dragon. my e-mail is [e-mail].

here are some serious questions that need accurate answers

1) what size tank is the beardie in?

2) what size crickets are you feeding it?

3) what else do you feed your beardie besides crickets?

4) what type of lights do you use?

5) how many times a day do you feed it and for how long?

6) what is in your beardies tank?

answers to the above questions.

1) your beadie should be in at least a 40 gallon breeder tank

2) any food that you feed your beardie should not be bigger than the space between its eyes

3) you can feed your bearded dragon a variety of foods here is a great site that has a list of color coded foods that your beardie should and should not be eating. the site is www.beautifuldragons.com

4) the temps should be about 105-110 on the hot side and mid 80's on the cooler side. you should also have a uvb light on the tank

5) you should feed your bearded dragon 3 times a day for at least 15 mins each time.

6) you should have a rock or two a branch or two a water bowl and a food dish there should not be sand in your bearded dragons tank ever because it can eventually kill your bearded dragon instead put plain white paper towels or news paper down.

Answer 3

How long ago did you get him? He may be stressed from the new change. BUT, You need to feed him veggies. Start out with lettuce and just like the crickets...it should be no longer the the space between your beardie's eyes. Make sure you sprinkle some vitamins on the food as well. You may also have better luck getting him to eat in a smaller container. Buy a small cheap tupperware container to feed him in. How old is he? I have 12 babies at the moment and they eat about four crickets a piece a day. ( their only 5 days old). Good l

Answer 4

just feed it some small crickets they will go crazy for em or you can give the beardie some mealworms but crickets are better and more fun to watch get eaten

Answer 5

Feed your bearded dragon 8-15 small crickets a day (dusted with calcium powder on them, be sure it has no phosphorus, it'll reverse all the calcium benefits) and leave a small food dish of vegetables in the vivarium. I recommend romaine lettuce and mustard greens, my bearded dragon eats up the whole dish of those vegetables!

It's okay if he doesn't eat the pellets. My bearded dragon never eats them, but I leave them in there next to the vegetable dish in case she ever decides to eat them.

The breeder I got my bearded dragon from told me to wet down the dragon pellets and make them damp, they're more likely to eat it that way. So you might want to try that too.

Do not feed your bearded dragon iceberg lettuce, it gives them diarrhea and has no nutrients. Look for romaine lettuce and mustard greens, they love it. Fruit should only be a treat. It's full of sugar and excessive fruit will give your bearded dragon diarrhea.

The crickets and vegetable slices must be NO bigger than the space between his eyes, other wise he won't eat them or he'll choke.

Answer 6

Very young beardies (<3-4 months, or ~12" including tail) should actually be fed twice a day, usually about a dozen crickets that are no longer than the distance between the beardie's eyes.  Don't feed it mealworms as the chitin in their exoskeleton is very hard to digest so they will choke and/or paralyze and quickly kill a young beardie.  Pellets often aren't eaten and their nutritional value is questionable anyway as the ingredients in them degrade within a couple of months of manufacturing-and the containters on the shelves in the store may be as old as six months.  Veggies should be offered throughout the day although when that young, live food (don't feed a baby mealworms) should be the bulk of what they eat. Also at this age *ALL* crickets need to be dusted with calcium (no phosphorus). A good UVB bulb is also essential in addition to the calcium as the babies are growing so rapidly. Even a couple of days without both dusted food *and* a UVB bulb can trigger metabolic bone disease (MBD) which can be lethal if not treated immediately in baby beardies. Pheonix worms are popular and are naturally high in calcium although you still need to dust the food. Don't use any type of sand (even the "safe" calci-sand) or other substrate for your babies yet other than plain paper towels as the risk of impaction is too high.

Never rely on calcium sand to provide any calcium at any age. Not enough is ingested to depend on it for calcium supplementation although it is a bit safer than other sands.

**Since your beardie is not eating as much as it should, make sure that the entire cage is brightly lit and that temperatures range between 75 and 85 with the basking spot being 95-105. Make sure that some areas of the cage are about 75 and others near 85 with other spots in between those temps. Don't use one of the hot rocks at they seriously burn reptiles long before the reptile realizes that it is too hot. If the beardie is not warm enough or if the light isn't bright enough, then it can still get MBD even with a UVB bulb and adequate calcium supplements because it won't be eating enough to get the calcium it requires.

After about four months you can cut the live food down to once a day, still dusting with calcium. Mealworms are okay now if they are small enough (<3/4ths of an inch). You can also start increasing the veggies although it may take a while for it to start eating them a lot. My beardie usually insists on me holding the veggies as she rips off bites-she still wants her food to be moving before she'll bite.

At eight months or so, beardies have finished growing for the most part and should be fed live food and veggies every other day. Some beardies start to eat almost nothing other than veggies and since veggies have lower amounts of nutrients you will need to feed them a much larger volume of veggies then they would eat of live food. Calcium supplementation (can be put on veggies if the beardie stops eating live food) should only be once or twice a week, any more and the supplements can eventually become poison. However, if you are planning on breeding a female, make sure that she gets dusted food daily from a little before she is mated to a couple months after laying her eggs. She may lay more than one clutch from a single mating even if there are several weeks between clutches. A breeding female needs a massive amount of food and supplements starting at the time she is mates.

At all times and all ages you need to provide fresh, clean water in a dish large enough for the beardies body. The water is used for drinking and for soaking. Not all beardies actually drink water (they may get enough from their food or they might just be drinking when no one is watching) but they still need the clean water for soaking and to aid in shedding. Some people have problems with getting their beardies to drink and there are a number of things to try such as lightly spraying the beardie or using an eyedropper that the beardie licks (don't force it into the beardie's mouth unless instructed by a herp vet). I have never had a problem hydrating mine as she voluntarily nose dives into the water and she does get a lot of moisture from her crickets and fresh veggies.