What was the wave of your life and your worst day surfing?

Question

my worst was getting slammed onto reef. My best wave so far was a long left went forever all the way nose ride. sick sick sick

Answer 1

Best day? Well out of 41/42 years, that's hard to remember one, but one does standout. It was a late August or early September hurricane swell with waves just overhead. The beaches in some towns were closed because of the waves, so my buddies and I loaded lots of boards on top of my '67 Impala and we took off for a secluded beach with no beach patrol. I was riding a 7'6" Rick and caught a ripper left. It was the coolest backside either before or since. I felt like I was going to ride forever. The sun was getting low in the sky in the late afternoon, and I can still see it in my mind. The worst - when you are 55, it's all you can do to not let any given session be the worst. I don't know, I've broken a few bones, gotten lots of sprains and some gashes that looked like I was sword fighting, but no matter what, my worst day surfing is better than my best day at work.

Answer 2

worst: paddling against a rip tide in norcal stormsurf, sure I was going to get taken out to sea and munched by a shark, at one point giving up and waving hoping a lone fisherman on the jetty would see me, which he didn't as he was facing the bay. Fortunately I was able to maintain a position inside the jetty against the rip until a clean up set washed me in and out of the rip.

best: santa barbara point break, on a hunch I paddled away from the crowd to another peak just in time to catch the wave of the day.

Answer 3

I usually have a best and worst on a yearly basis.

My worst this year was last week saturday when I was drowning in 3 ft. of water. It was a minus tide and my leash got caught around a rock. The current was so strong that I couldn't get the leash free. Oh I actually was coming in I really wasn't riding a wave anymore. Just straightening out to head to shore.

The best one was that ride before I ended up in my situation.

Answer 4

To be quite honest, every wave I catch is the wave of my life. But a particular wave I remember well was down at Swamis back in October of 2007 during a pretty big swell (6'-8'), was trying out my new 6'0 epoxy fish and the first wave I caught just went on and on. Just carving up and down on the wave, it felt like I was bombing a hill on my sector9. Epic.

I have no "worst day" of surfing though

Answer 5

Best Days are the small, clean glassy ones.  I went out with my friend.  nobody there and got clean little barrels all day.  worst day was one where other people were pushy, crowded couldnt get any waves.  It got really frustrating

Answer 6

the wave of my life would've been 22 cm and the worst day of surfing would've been me not being able to even ride a surfboard hahahaha

Answer 7

yeah i'd think getting slammed onto a reef wouldn't be fun. i think my worst wave was pearling and then having the board hit me in the head when i came back up. best wave was riding in a barrel at scorpion bay last summer. i've never nose ridden or hung ten but want to someday; sounds way sick.