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Whats so great about surfing? (i am not criticizing it, i just don't get whats so cool about it?

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Whats so great about surfing? (i am not criticizing it, i just don't get whats so cool about it?

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  1. i've only been a few times but it's awesome. i too have the small waves of the east coast but to me i still love surfing. it's something about being so in tune with nature and the mystery of not knowing whether you're gonna eat sand or ride out the wave, it's an amazing feeling. there's so much room for indiivduality, i mean it's a great sport for staying in shape, but no being bound to a team. you have room to be creative and just flow with the wave, that's what is so great about it. you can't understand it until you try it.


  2. its kinda boring where im at with small waves but I think on the pacific it looks intense and badass.

  3. surfing keeps me sane, it erases anything that happened that day that got me sad, mad, whatever......its great exercise and you have fun doing it, you get to play with nature, you meet great people, its great seeing familiar faces out in the water, everything about surfing is great

  4. You know I lived on an island for my entire life and I just decided to learn how to surf about a year ago (im 20 ). At first it started off as a fun thing to do with my friend but eventually I got really into it and before I knew it I WAS HOOKED ON SURFING. Its like out of no where you just are hooked. You become addicted to mastering the board and catching that wave. Its this awesome feeling of accomplishment that I have never felt when doing anything else. You get this awesome rush. Its just so hard for anyone to understand. Unless you have a drive for it and you really work hard at learning you'll never really know the awesome feeling and why its so great. Its somewhat spiritual not that I cant be close to God anywhere else but being in the water with the waves peacefully rolling in its just indescribable. You can forget everything bad thats happened and just rock it out on the water. Try it and you will know.

    p.s. it does however get boring when the waves are tiny which is a problem where I live. lol

  5. Like the first fellow says, you do need decent surf!  But what is so great is that it is peaceful, just the sound of the waves breaking and maybe a sea gull or a sea buoy ringing.  The best thing is the feeling one gets when sliding down a wave while standing on the top of the water and then having the controll to turn as you see fit.  It takes a good since of balance and it is rewarding to achieve control of a board on mother natures energy rolling in with thousands of pounds of her influence.  It is a peaceful, quite, bonding with nature that is almost spiritual!  I did say almost!  There is really nothing like it and aside from say ski diving, which I have not done, it is unique and as enjoyable as snow boarding or snow skiing but probably better because in snow boarding and snow skiing the mountain is not moving!  Then there is the fact that different beaches offer different breaks!  Some break left some right, some waves pitch out and cause a tube and many others don't which gives you an appreciation for those that do.  Then wave size, water clarity and water temperature varies to make every break a little different.  The big waves and even smaller waves provide an Adrenalin factor, you get excited!  It is a unique one person sport!

  6. It more then just surfing its being able to paddle out catch some nice clean waves and relax and when you need to vent whip out the short board and tear it up. its a life style that any one can become a part of its stepping into liquid. once you catch that first wave your hooked for life.

  7. OK. FIRST you need to stop hating on the right coast. When it gets good here, its still good.

    Now, all you have to do is watch someone surf (preferably someone who knows what they are doing). Maybe even a good movie like The First Chapter or Trilogy.

    That style and skill combined with the chill atmosphere should make it obvious.

    OR MAYBE YOU SHOULD GO SURFING YOURSELF

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