Question:

When a person buys a boat, what are the major things that you need to look for?

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I know when you buy a car you check out the engine, transmission, brakes, tires, and maybe maintance records and a carfax report. What about when you buy a boat, what are the "trouble" parts?

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  1. The only maintenance records worth anything is a qualified service shop invoice reciept.  There is no boat carfax system available.

    This will vary somewhat depending whether you get a boat with an Inboard/Outboard or just Outboard.

    However here is the main list:

    Know how to properly inspect the outer boat hull.

    For fiberglass boats:

    Inspect every inch of the boat floor for sturdiness.  If you feel and sponginess or give in it, leave it immediately.  Giving the floor a good stomp for each test will give your answer.

    Make sure the transom is stiff and sound

    Inspect Steering control and control box linkage, inspect engine wiring, fuel lines, and fuel tank.

    For Inboard/Outboard boats:

    Check the condition of the sterndrive, lower unit, prop, and bellows between the sterndrive and the transom mount.

    Make sure you take boat out for test drive, no test drive no buy.

    Secondly, if test drive goes well and you are buying from a private owner, you must have the boat inspected by a qualified marine mechanic at your expense before buying it.

    If you fail to pay to have it inspected and the boat turns out to be a lemon, guess what there's nothing you can legally do about it for most states in the U.S.


  2. If you remember just two things, make 'em these:

    Don't buy any boat without compression testing the engine.  If the worst cylinder isn't within 5% of the highest, walk away.

    Check the transom for rot.

  3. Used boats don't come without problems...

    and to find that best one can be a time consuming headache. If you are spending a good (considerable) money on a boat - and especially if you are taking out a loan - I can not stress enough that you have it surveyed by a qualified marine surveyor. I stress "qualified" because at this time anyone can call themselves a marine surveyor. Ask at the local marina (or your Bank) for a recommendation and make sure that they are a member of either, or both, of the marine surveyor associations. You can call the National Association of Marine Surveyors - NAMS or the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors.

    Otherwise, look for this:

    1. Mismatched paint. This could indicate that the boat has been in an accident and had repairs made. Although this in and of itself may not disqualify the boat, if you were not told of the repairs what else might you not have been told about?

    2. Does the keel run true in a straight line fore and aft? Is is straight horizontally?

    3. Do you see any apparent water lines inside the boat or on the engine. Look for a line that separates a rust free area on the engine and an lower area with a lot of rust. This could indicate that the boat took on water.

    4. On an inboard, does the shaft turn true or does it wobble? 5.What about the prop - any nicks or cracks?

    6.Take hold of the prop and try to move it up and down and sideways. You should not be able to move it much. If you can, you have a worn cutlass bearing.

    7. Take a small rubber or phenol hammer and lightly tap the hull moving around the boat. If you hear voids in the fiberglass, that could be a problem of repairs, blisters, or delamination.

    8. Walk around the decks and on the bow - you shouldn't find soft spots.

    9. How are the floors inside? Any soft spots?

    10. Is the steering free and easy to move?

    11. Is the upholstery in good shape?

    12. Check around hatches and windows - do you see water stains inside? If so, these will have to be rebedded to keep the rain and spray out.

    13. Is there any musty/moldy smell inside? This could indicate leakage, prior water damage or simply neglect.

    14. Make sure it is legal with all required equipment.

    15. Are the handrails bolted through and not just screwed to the surface? Are they secure?

    16. Look at the transom and check the hull identification number. Does it look like it has been modified? Does it match the number on the registration and or title.

    17. When you start the engine do you have good water flow?

    18. Check belts and hoses for cracks or wear. Even with low hours on an engine(s), rubber deteriorates just sitting.

    18. Check the oil and instead of wiping the stick with a cloth use your fingers, do you feel any grit? What is the color? How does it smell? Does it smell burned. You might want to send a sample of it and the transmission fluid to a lab for testing.

    19. Check the transmission fluid with the same process as the oil.

    20. Check the impeller and while you are looking at it throw it away and replace it with a new one.

    21. Check the strainer(s) for debris and clean if necessary.

    22. Test the seacocks to make sure they open and close.

    23. Does the transmission shift easily or does it "clunk?"

    24. See if you can get the maintenance records and review how the boat has been maintained in the past. Also look for reccurring problems.

    25. See if you can find the previous owner(s) and ask about the boat.

    26. Check both the BUC and NADA books to determine value range for this model and year. You can get these books at any boat dealer or a bank that does boat loans.

    27. If you are looking at an inboard/outboard make sure the tilt motor works properly.

    28. If you are looking at an outboard look under the cover for excessive corrosion.



    Now... aren't you glad you asked?  This should keep you busy for a while and frustrate the dealer / seller to the point he should be willing to come down a few thousand - just to get you off the lot.  Problem is, We (all us old, and old time boaters) have seen too many people burned by what appears to be a good deal.  And even though we keep telling, and warning... people keep making the same boat buying mistakes.

    Bottom line - If you do nothing else - DO THIS!

    1. Require an "on the water" test drive... Put the boat through its paces... Don't baby it!  See (and feel) how it handles... Checking engines with a hose, just doesn't get you out to sea... to know if the engine is running properly, you need to put a load on it...



    Happy & Safe Boating!

    http://boatwrights.org/

  4. Well a lot of the above

    AND.

    Trailer, winch, cables, straps, BEARINGS, rollers, carpeted bunks, tounge, bent axles.

    All of these things need to be checked.

    And a soft spot on a floor does not mean instant death, just that there maybe some issues later on.

    I would check the corners and the keel and the bow for impact damage and spidering. Steering needs to be tight and fluid, and throttle needs to be snap and instant. or nice and fluid.  Trim needs to be the same. no lag.  I also would look at fluids, outboard/ lower unit oil. and if you can run it in water, check for heavy stream out of water pump hole.

    and skegs and cavitation plates not broken, no fishing line wrapped around prop.  etc.. fogged every winter..etc.

    stern drive, bellows not cracked, manifolds not cracked, winterized , gimble not sloppy, trim same as above, lower unit fluid check, skeg and cav plates, prop not ate up.

    Buying a boat is not cheap nor is owning one. Get to learn your boat and it can be very satisfying. If you learn to fix it, it can cost you way less in maintenance.

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