Question:

When climbing on hard routes, how are the quick draws already up there?

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I have always wondered how when people climb on really hard routes where there is not a lot of time to put the draw into the bolt how the QD is already there in the first place.

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  1. maybe someone placed them there while repelling down witch gave them plenty of time.


  2. Bruce C provides one possiblity.

    Another situation is when a pair of climbers have differring climbing ability, you sometimes see the better of the 2 lead the route as normal. Then, instead of the 2nd climber cleaning the route, they pull the rope and allow the less experienced climber to lead w/ the QD already there. They can then concentrate more on the climb yet still lead. This creates a problem, however, if the 2nd person to lead cant finish the route. The first climber will have to reclimb the route in order to reclaim their QDs.

  3. 1. They are left there from a previous attempt at the route (you can only clean ALL the draws if you make it to the top).

    2. They are left by another climber - the rope was pulled but the draws remain.

    3. There are also "fixed" draws - usually made from steel cable that won't rot in the sun - on very hard climbs, but these are rare.

    Good Luck

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