When was your first?

Question

when was the first time you had second thoughts about paddling out?

mine--i was a grommet at S-turns (hatteras). it was big and as glassy as it could possibly have been. i could feel the ground pounding from the set waves, people getting KILLED in the barrel. my stomach felt wierd, and i had to MAKE myself paddle out---and when i got outside i didnt catch a wave for about 45 minutes. finally, after some razzing from my friends, i took off on a bomb, broke my board--and couldnt wait to go catch another.

Answer 1

Tropical storm swell in Carolina Beach. It wasn't particularly big, maybe head high, but it was horribly rough. My board was in the shop and I was on one that was a bit too big. Took me probably 20 minutes to get out, and I was so beat that I caught one in and didn't go back out.

Answer 2

Probably Hurricane Irene swell in Rodanthe.  It was only like head high but had a killer inside section was just detonating.  I was riding my fun board, which I could not duck dive very well and just got worked trying to get out.  Would have been a piece of cake now on my short board though.

Yes, they put up a bunch of no parking signs at the north end of town due to problems with surfers doing despicable things to peoples rental properties.  As usual  a few bad apples ruin it for the rest of us.  You can still park at S-Turns...if you've got a vehicle that can haul itself out of the sand there.

Answer 3

kayy well im a sponsored grom soo lets start there. . .

okay wellk i was soo stoked on landing my first clothing sponsorrr and  i was ready to show the team all i had

sooo

they sent me on my first trip

i was ummm i think 11

and okayy

we went to indo

sickestt trip especially being my first

okay

soo obviously it was a boat trip and all the girls were like wayyy older than me and they were all friends with eachother and iwas kinda an outsider

soo just jumping off the boat to go into glassy barelling clean cut waves gave me goose bumps. . .

soo i felt that i had to prove myself to the rest of the girls

they all obviousllyyy been on trips like this soo they thought it was no thingg

i looked out and it was at least standing barrelss

i was sooo nervous i was nearly shaking

soo i paddled out for my wave got in then did my bottom turn to get back in the pocket, and the lip totally hit me.

anddd wipeeoutt. . .

hit the reef on my legs and got all cut up

defff. i was known as the couragous one on the trip

now ive got tons of friends on my team

just stoked to be blessed withhh such a great teamm

ahhhhhhh illl neverrrr forgettt that tripp

ahaha hope you liked my storyy

(:

Answer 4

Winter swells this past December in San Diego. There's a beach break right out front of our office. Me and my buddy showed up around 7am and started draining the coffee pot while the office windows rattled from the close-outs. It was too big NOT to go out so we went for it. By the time we got outside and looked at shore, we realized how screwed we were. We just looked at each other and laughed. What can you do? We waited at least a half hour before giving it a go and it was just pure speed screaming from the take off. I believe that was a one-and-done day as I recall. lol

Answer 5

Hurricane Andrew, maybe 1992. In Melbourne, Florida. Although I was in great shape, getting out past the breakers was a b***h. When I finally got out, I rested on my board for about fifteen minutes. The beach was behind a private condo, so it wasn't very crowded No one took a wave, so my buddy and I took the next nice wave. He got a great ride, while I ate S**t. Needless to say we were both too exhausted to go back out. We went for clams and beer instead. Yeah, I know, John F and you think we were wussies. We've been called worse.

You just can't help yourself, can you?

Answer 6

It hasn't happened yet.

Yep, a  high threshold of pain and no fear of dying.