Why can't I catch a wave?

Question

I surfed from age 12 thru 26, and then relocated (job) too far from the ocean. I'm now going on 41 and have moved back to the Atlantic Ocean, Jacksonville FL and 2'-3' surf mostly closeouts. I'm definitely out of shape, and can't seem to surf unless I use a long board. I guess I don't have the power to catch a wave. Any tips for the old guy. Thanks.

Answer 1

I've noticed the main reason people have a hard time catching waves is because of their lack of paddling skills. Practice lifting weights/doing pushups and that will strengthen your biceps/shoulders. Once you're able to catch the wave, standing up on it just requires practice, practice, and practice. Also look at surf videos/ photos or actual surfers in the water and look at their form/posture as they are standing on their board.

Good luck!

Answer 2

dont try surfing it sucks

Answer 3

First of all, forty-one is not old.  You are in your physical and mental prime.  Get into that frame of mind and that is the first step in improving your ability to catch waves.  

Once you start surfing regularly, you will get into the groove again and will feel more comfortable, know the waves a bit better and the wave catching part will improve over time.  However, I noticed that you also asked for some tips to help you on your way to catching waves.  Tips: 1) Positioning and Judgement - it seems that being away from the ocean for 15 years, your wave positioning and judgement may be a bit rusty.  As a result, you are probably in the wrong spot when you attempt to catch the waves.  Study the waves and crowd and find the spot that is best for taking off before you paddle out, then paddle to that spot and line yourself up with landmarks to help you to always be in the same spot.  Remember you need two landmarks to lineup; one in the foreground (e.g. a buiding, tree, utility pole, etc.) and one in the background (e.g. building, mountain, trees, etc.).  So positioning is very important in being in the right spot to catch a wave.  Good surfers always establish landmarks for lining up when in the water to help them to always to be in the right place to get the best chance at the best waves.  2) Paddling Skills - Are you paddling correctly?  Correct paddling is first of all, being on the right place on the surfboard (sweet spot).  Every board has a paddling sweet spot that gives you the optimum for paddle speed, nose lift, and flotation.  Find that sweet spot by experimenting with lying on different parts of your board.  If you are too far back, your nose will be too much in the air, and your board will be pushing too much water (drastic slow down).  If you are too far forward, you nose will be sinking which will add drag and account for some pearling.  Also, arm rotation and extension are important paddling skills.  Extend your arms but don't be stiff like a robot.  Just extend your arms as much as you can in a relaxed mode; like a freestyle swimmer.  Finally, your arm motion must place your hands and forearms slightly under the board (again, like a freestyle swimmer), not at the sides under your shoulders.

I hope this helps.