Why can't ethanol fuel be used in small engines..such as chain saws?

Question

Why can't ethanol fuel be used in small engines..such as chain saws?

Answer 1

Of course you can... chain saws, generators, etc

The following are a couple types of products to make ethanol easily. There are however many materials one can use including sugar cane, corn, wood, etc. The information was cut directly from a guide I offer at www agua-luna com, it is complete but if anyone’s interested in other types of foods to use or a more specific step by step of the process, including building your own still legally, visit www agua-luna com

"THE usual sources of raw material for alcohol Ethanol production from starch are cereal grains such as corn, wheat, rye, barley, milo (sorghum grains), rice, etc. Other types of starch are available from potatoes of all kinds, Jerusalem artichokes, and other high-starch vegetables. Starch conversion is the standard method of production and the one we will discuss here.

It is possible, however, to make alcohol from sugar-producing plants (saccharine material) such as sugar beets, sugarcane, fruits, and others. These substances need no milling (as do grains), but they do require some kind of grinding or squeezing process. Rapid, efficient fermentation of these sugars has not been as well explored as the process using starch.

A third source of fermentables is cellulose, as found in wood and waste sulphite liquor. This more complex process requires the use of acids to reduce the material to wood sugars. Consequently, most do-it-yourselfers should stick to either starch or sugar.

MILLING

All grains must be ground before mashing to expose the starch granules and help them remain in suspension in a water solution. The grain should be ground into a meal -- not a flour! -- that will pass a 20-mesh screen. On a hammermill, however, a 3/16" screen will suffice.

Potatoes and similar high-moisture starch crops should be sliced or finely chopped. Since potato starch granules are large and easily ruptured, it isn't necessary to maintain the hard rapid boil which is required of the tougher, dryer "flinty" starches found in grains.

CONVERSION WITH ENZYMES

For small batches (5 bushels or less), fill the cooker with water (30 gallons per bushel), and add the meal slowly, to prevent lumps from forming. (When, cooking with steam, or at higher temperatures, it is possible to save energy by using less water at the beginning. But for the "small batcher" with an ordinary cooking apparatus, the most complete conversion is obtained by using the full amount of water right from the start to encourage a rapid rolling boil.)

Next, add 3 measuring spoons -- as provided -- per bushel of Alpha Amylase Enzyme (mixed in water) to the mixture and raise the temperature of the mash to 170 deg F (77 deg C), the optimum working environment for the enzyme. Hold the solution at that temperature for 15 minutes while agitating it vigorously.

At this point all the starch available at 170 deg F has been converted to dextrins, so it's time to raise the temperature of the mash to the boiling point. The concoction should be liquid enough to roll at its own rate -- if not, add 2 to 3 gallons of water. Hold the boil for 30 minutes to complete the liquefaction stage. All the starches are now in solution.

Now reduce the temperature to 170 deg F, using the cooling coil, and add 3 more measuring spoons per bushel of Alpha Amylase Enzyme (mixed in water). After 30 minutes of agitation at this temperature, all the previously released starches will have been reduced to dextrins, thereby completing primary conversion.

During secondary conversion the dextrins are further reduced to simple sugars (maltose and glucose) by the beta, or -- to be more exact -- glucoamylase enzymes. You need Alpha Amylase Enzyme and the yeast necessary to carry out secondary conversion and proper fermentation simultaneously, you can add 6 measuring spoons per bushel of the fermentation powder (mixed in water) as soon as you've brought the temperature down to 85 deg F (29 deg C) using the cooling coils."

Answer 2

You can. i put ethanol, methanol, butanol, gasoline, toluene, nitromethane, and all kinds of alternative fuels in my dirt bike.  

Answer 3

you can for a short period of time.  Ethanol is corrosive and eats most rubber hoses.

Answer 4

hard enough to keep them running on pure gas...ethanol has lots of water in it.   and less power and causes corrosion

Answer 5

Ethanol CAN be used safely in small engines.  I use it in my lawnmower all the time have never had any issues.  Try mixing a little with gasoline and see how it works.  Then gradually increase your ethanol percentage if you don't have any performance issues.

Answer 6

Ethanol has a high vapor pressure, and because of its high affinity for water, it readily takes up water and corrodes the tanks and pipelines that carry oil.

The energy content of ethanol is a lot lower than gasoline,

delivering only .7 times the mileage.

Answer 7

These people are all wrong. Ethanol is an alcohol based fuel. And because it is its a much cleaner burning fuel. For instance if you use ethanol in your fuel injected car motor you do not have to use injector cleaner. But because is does have alcohol in it it will dry out seals and then they will crack and split. But as far as your small (chainsaw) engines they are usually two cycle engines which means you have to add oil to the fuel for better operation. By adding oil your doing the opposite of using ethanol. By using ethanol in a two cycle engine you will make the engine burn hotter and therefore shorten the life of the engine itself. You can use it in lawnmowers and the like but it is not good for seals and rings and it will shorten the life of the engine.