Why did clear polyurethane turn my oak floor dark?

Question

My husband redid all the floors, after he sanded them, they were super light like I wanted, then he put a clear Poly on them, now they back to the same dark color. What did we do wrong?. Why are they so dark?. This was a lot of work for the same look.

Answer 1

Even clear poly has an Amber cast to it. Plus the color of wood darkens even with a clear sealer, the finish brings out the wood grain.

Answer 2

They look different when wet and polyurethane keeps the wet look. Maybe he should have put a lighter (whitewash) stain on it. I know it's a lot of work but you need to test first, you are not unique in this problem.

Answer 3

Too late now!  But you should have tried a sample first in a closet to see what the finished product would look like.  If the person that sold you your floor finish

told you it would not darken the natural sanded color, he was worng.  But if you didn't tell him you wanted them to be lite or blonde you were wrong.  

There are clear finishes that will not darken the natural color a great deal, but almost none, without out a specialized application will not darken them somewhat.

It also depends a lot on the type of wood, it's age, and the product's end effect in your particular situation.  Hardly any one could tell you that except an experienced wood floor man, but even he would run a test first to be sure of the result.  Water or oil base, you should still run a small test.   Because Oak is like a spong an is apt to change color even more then other woods.

Just spitting on your finger and/or wetting a small area will show what the color will be.  The call letters are:  Ask questions, Test first, Then buy & finish.  

Sorry you went through so much hard work just to end up back at square one.  But look on the bright side...Your floors have to look 100% better now, and you learned a good lesson!  

Answer 4

since you, unfortunately, have to re-finish, here are a couple of things you could do to get the floor as light as possible. after you have re-sanded, go up in grit 1 or even 2 grades finer. the finer sanding you do, the more you will close the pores of the wood limiting penetration of the poly. start with 120 since you are just trying to remove the poly, then go higher 180, 220. if you are switching to water based poly, seal the floor first with a product like this:

http://minwax.com/products/hardwood_floo...

do a small test area in a closet or other inconspicuous area before doing the whole floor. wipe the area with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol. this will show you the final 'color', then apply your sealer and topcoat.

multiple topcoats: 3-5. once you have applied the first, it will not darken further.

Hope that helps, good luck!