Why do i do this when i surf?

Question

All the time when i catch a good wave and i ride the wall i end up falling into the wave. is it because im leaning to much? or im doing somthing wrong?

Answer 1

make sure that when your on your board that your feet are touching the end of the board. Your probably to close to the front of the board so when you stand up, you slip up and thus fall at the end. I would make that mistake a lot. When your feet are right, you stand right in the middle of the board making it balanced. if it heps you balance, bends you knees a bit too.  ;) hope i helped. Surfs up

Answer 2

Hey little buddy, there could be lots of reasons, and on-line is the wrong place to look for the answer. If lived near you, I'd check you out in the water. Are you riding a 'backside'? Turning too hard and (I guess you could call it) leaning into the wave can happen. Happens to me way too often for an old guy. The problem is that you lose a lot of depth perception with the wave behind you, and if you focus on the beach, it's an easy goof to make. If you are riding straight on, that's another question. If you turn to much inside then you would likely go up and probably over the lip, or kick out.

I suggest you get some of your pals who surf, and ask them (bribe them with food?) to just watch you for a couple waves. If they are cool, they'll tell you what it looks like your problem is. Unfortunately, it's really hard to verbalize what goes on on a surfboard, and harder yet to comment on it. Good Luck.

Answer 3

i was doing this on and off coming from skateboarding.

What i was doing was focasing on going straight across the wave instead off slightly ahead of it. Just remember your travelling forwards not sidewards-helped for me

Have fun

Answer 4

its hard to say exactly what your doing based on the short description you gave? when exactly are you falling, as your riding along and have already set a rail or as your doing your bottom turn to try to get into the wave? if its as your doing your bottom turn it sounds like your digging your rail too deep for the wave your on.  i know you see pictures of people really carving hard on a bottom turn and leaning far into it, but that is because the waves they are on demand it.  try making a mellower bottom turn and see if that fixes the problem.  also try paddling at a slight angle to the wave so your rail starts to set as your dropping, it will help you make a smoother transition from dropping in to riding the wave.

if the problem comes with you falling into the wave when your already out on the face then it sounds like your trying to ride too parallel to the wave.  try turning your board a little bit more away from the wave. it may feel a little wrong, but again if you look at the pros when theyre on a nice wall they arent surfing directly across it, theyre surfing slightly away from it because the wave continues to move forward. by straightening out a little bit you allow the wave to continue to push you forward as you ride across it.  i had a similar problem when i first started riding small tubes because i would try and shoot straight through it and usually ended up stalling my board and carving into the face.  i tweaked my angle a little and it helped out a lot.

good luck

Answer 5

i don't know i'd need to see a video of you

Jackson you jack @ss, that really not funny, what are you 10 years old ..I..

Answer 6

something wrong like leaning too much into it ?

Answer 7

you may have ur feet in a bad footing place and not back enough or yes u may be leaning to far forward just remember to crouch more the lean hope it helps

Answer 8

id say the nose is going in too deep shift your weight back a bit