Why do we surf?

Question

Why, instead of playing a team sport or something? I'm writing a psychology paper and want to know your reasons.

Answer 1

for some unexplained reason i have time to do swim team, baseball and surf... of course

surfing becomes a lifestyle once u get into it. most of the surfers i hang with all do a bunch of team sports. one of the guys is the starting pitcher of the UCSB baseball team. plus we surf because of friends, you build bonds with your surf pals. with my pals, they are big and stuff so they stick up for me on land while i stick up for them on waves

Answer 2

You get a rush from catching bigger waves and pushing yourselves also if ur wit m8s or by urself there is no coach out there criticising your every mistake!

Answer 3

its good for the soul -- the still water just sittin out there you and your board its amazing. Then you see the wave peakin out its a thrill riding with nature it kicks team sports *** ha =)

Answer 4

i wrote an english paper on my favorite things and of corse i  did surfing as one of them =]

here is what i wrote:

I am for surfing and the adrenalin rush you get after each wave you catch and the way it leaves you wanting more. It is like a drug, I crave it. Surfing is something only a surfer can describe. It is like flying; there is nothing else like it. It is so pure and graceful and makes you feel so attached to the beauty of the ocean. The sensation you get when you feel the waves’ energy lifting you up and the way you glide across the face of the wave is breath taking. It is the freedom, happiness and oneness with the ocean that keeps me going back for more. The ocean is a very powerful place and surfing make you feel like you are controlling it. I love the cool salty water against my skin and the way the sand makes you skin so soft.

and in a way surfing is a team sport. u go out with ur mates and you cheer each other on. i also like the way that every wave is different and u never no what is coming, u can never gett board surfing like i can be out ther for 5-6 hrs straight and it feels like i just got out there u no its a beautiful thing surfing, it make you feel good =]

hope that helped and good luk with ur paper

xx

Answer 5

i surf and play lacrosse

Answer 6

Let's not forget, lots of surfers do (or did) play team sports. When I was a kid, almost everybody who surfed played little league baseball, too. And in High School, most of us played some team sport, whether it was a real team sport, like football, basketball, or crew, or a psuedo team sport, like swimming or track.

Surfing is a connection to nature and a true water sport. Unfortunately, there are darned few "watermen" (or to be fair, "waterpersons") who are getting into to surfing anymore (except maybe at the pro competitive level). To keep surfing in the context it belongs, it is important that surfers teach others to appreciate the sea, and respect it, and to respect each other.

There is a lot evil in the world. There is war and pain and suffering. There is crime and poverty, greed and anger. But in the ocean, there is peace. Even at it's biggest and meanest, the ocean is a constant, a source of peace.

I was always at home in the water, and much better at water sports than land sports (although I never learned to water ski, I didn't like 'motor powered' sports). Swimming, body surfing, scuba diving, snorkeling and surfing are all pure water sports. Surfing is the last great free style activity that someone can competitively excel at. You can invent your own moves as you go along (I hate when people call them, "tricks'. My dog does tricks). And as a free style activity, there is no need to compete to feel completely satisfied with one's self by making the most he or she can make out of a wave. Surfing is completely personal. It can meditative, or gregarious, depending on your mood or your company in the line up.

As I have gotten much, much older, I found that I can't make the moves I used to. In 42 years, I have lost a beat or two, to say the least. h**l, sometimes I have a tough time taking off. But the same feel is still there every time there is that special wave, that special ride. And that special ride, whether it comes once a session, or twenty times a session, is something that is completely unique and can never, ever, be exactly duplicated. I can hit a golf ball the same way a million times. I can pitch a slider the same way, a million times, I can shoot a foul shot the same way, a million times, but I can only ride anyone wave any particular way, one time.

Answer 7

cause surfing gives u a feeling like no other- better than almost anything

i read in an article that the feeling u get from surfing is controlled by the same part of your brain that recognizes when your high or somethin like that

Answer 8

Because surfing is amazing and is different from any other sport

Answer 9

It's so relaxing yet at the same time it gives you such an adrenaline rush. From sitting on my board in the middle of the ocean--i am at peace-- i feel as if i don't even have to try to catch a wave, letting them pass beneath me is enough. When i do catch a wave (especially the first one, or the biggest one, or the longest ride) i have a smile smacked on my face like a loon because of the rush i get. I also just find the ocean one of the most amazing and beautiful things in the world, I've always wanted to strap a camera to the front of my board and video what i see...t'would be a pretty sweet vid.

D-amn i forgot the team sport thing----- In team sports you have unlimited opportunities to disappoint your teammates or coach but with surfing it is just you--I don't really think you can do anything wrong in surfing you just flow with it--so what if you didn't catch that wave, there will be more...no worries. I don't like teams because I feel like I have to be very good on a team and satisfy others--not myself, as i do with surfing.

Answer 10

'cause its a way 2 pass time and its really fun....its almost like a team sport cause u can do it w/ ur friends^-^

Answer 11

I would be happy to play soccer any day, but it's harder to get that many people together with conflicting job schedules and family that it is with surfing, getting weather conditions together, wind, swell, tide, etc. I'm always up for soccer but rarely get a call about a game going on. It's more likely that I will see online or get a call that surf conditions are good.

Answer 12

Surfing is a way of life. A religion on its own. Once you do it you worship it and pray for more surf. Surfing is good for the soul. You forget all your worries when your out surfing. It makes me a better person. If I surf in the morning I will feel energised for the whole day. Fitness is improved and you get a very cut body (I'm skinny but muscular all from surfing)

There are sooo many more benefits to surfing than what I've just mentioned but I can't be bothered typing them all. I'm sure others will enlighten you.