Question:

Why is my water pressure high one minute and low the next?

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I use well water. The water pressure to the pressure tank is fine. The pressure switch goes from 40psi to 70psi. The water tank has 43psi of pressure when the pressure switch is at 50psi. My hot water tank is rusting out at the bottom and leaking. If I'm leaking water there aren't I losing pressure there also? The problem is that I can't run water at two places at once or the water pressure goes to a trickle. I'm going to put in a new water heater hoping that solves my pressure problem. Is there any way to bypass the water heater to test my theory?

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  1. Hi,

    The problem to me sounds like it may be the pressure switch on your well pump tank, or a leak in that area. The pressure switch on the well pump can be adjusted so it cuts in sooner to maintain higher water line pressure.

    I know you said your hot water heater is leaking, but honestly unless it is pouring water out, i don't think it would drastically affect your water pressure the way you describe. But take heed, you need to replace the hot water heater. It is only going to get worse, and then it is going to cause water damage to your floors, and cost you much more money that purchasing a new one.

    You can shut off the main water supply to the hot water heater, but unless you have a cut off beyond the hot water outlet, you would have to cut the hot water to each water fixture you have to isolate the hot water to test your therory.

    If it were me. I would replace the pressure switch. I would also check the bladder resevoir tank at the well pump. It could be going bad itself or it could need to be recharged. I would then set the low and high pressure on the pressure switch to achieve the water pressure you desire (you can set the low side of when to come on, and the high side as to when it shuts off). Does you main water line have a pressure regulator? That could be the problem as well.

    When you have this repaired....I strongly suggest you replace the hot water heater. More pressure is just going to mean more leaking from it.

    I hope this helps! Goodluck!

    JBL


  2. The water heater has nothing to do with your problem. It should be replaced if it is leaking though. It can damage the wood holding up the floor and nearby walls.

    Your pressure tank has become water logged. A very common problem with well users. Look on the tank, you will find an air valve that looks like a valve stem on a car tire.  If your pressure tank doesn't have the valve stem installed already, you will find an small opening with a plug screwed into it. Go to the plumbing store and purchase the stem and s***w it in. The cost will be less than $5.

    Fill the tank with water, turn the pump off, let the water out until you hear the pressure switch click or the pressure guage reads 40 psi. Pump air into the pressure tank until the sounds of bubbles inside the tank subsides. Your tank is now pressurized with the correct amount of air. You will now have a steady flow of water at a consistent pressure and your pump won't cycle on and off as many times.

    Some pressure tanks have an internal air bladder so the air can't mix with the water and escape. If you have an internal air bladder tank, the bladder has ruptured. Put in the valve stem and pressurize the tank, or replace the pressure tank.

  3. Leaky tanks aren't good and the pressure tank may be causing the problem. OR it may not.  It may be the well itself.

    We also have a well and run into issues with pressure, especially if the inline filter is clogged.  And during the winter months, it's hard to get water at all.  Our well guy told us that the screen on the well may be plugged or worn out, thus causing you not to get steady water.

    Replace the pressure tank and if that solves the problem then you are good. If it doesn't, I suggest calling someone about your well.

  4. If your water heater is leaking, of course that could be the cause of low water pressure. Your pump is steadily having to pump water to the leaking water heater in order to keep it filled with water.

    Another very strong possibility is that your pump's water tank is "waterlogged". I also have well water, and this is a fairly common occurrence with our rural water wells. To prevent/eliminate waterlogging, we try to do this procedure at least once a year.

    Turn off the electrical circuit breaker for your pump. Attach a hose to the water faucet on your pump's water tank. Open the faucet at the tank, and open the faucets in your house. This will drain all water from your tank, and any water that's lingering in the house pipes. When you notice that water is no longer flowing from any faucets, or the hose attached to your water tank, your system is fully drained. You may want to close your house faucets at this point. Also turn off the faucet at the tank where the hose is attached. Turn your circuit breaker back on. One by one, slowly open each faucet in your house. You will want to take care doing this, as there will be air in the pipes and your faucets may spurt and splash as the air is cleared from the lines. You should notice an improvement to the water pressure almost immediately. I recommend opening one faucet at a time slowly to avoid having the air in the lines spraying water all over the place.

    Your first step, tho, is to procure a new water heater ASAP, as this is probably the cause of your loss of pressure. And it's causing your pump to run excessively to keep the hot water tank filled with water.

  5. You may have a waterlogged pressure tank or a blockage in the lines. The hot water leak is a concern but it is not causing your problem. I would go through this process here before I buy a hot water tank as you may need a pressure tank instead. If the pressure tank is a 'bladder' style the bladder may be bad. To test this go to the top of it and press in the place where you checked it for pressure and if any water appears then the tank has to be replaced. If it is not a bladder style then you will have to add air to the tank for the system to work properly. To do this slowly drain water while the pump is on and note the 'cut in' pressure on the tank gauge. Turn off pump. Drain the system from a faucet while pumping in air to the place you checked the pressure on top of the pressure tank. As soon as air starts to 'bubble' out of the tank outlet close the faucets and add continue to pressurize air into the tank to 4 pounds less than the 'cut in' pressure noted above. Turn on the pump. You are done with this part. If the problem persists then you have a partial blockage in the supply line from the pressure tank to the house. There are ways to clear the blockage using air pressure through the lines that I will detail if you post again if necessary. Hope this helps.

  6. The main problem is the leaking. Unit works on a diaphragm and needs to be sealed, so that the Delta P is maintained. You need to bite the bullet and go out and get a new tank. You may also have a potential contamination problem with the leak. Tagger

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