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Why the greater the wave period the better the swell?

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Why the greater the wave period the better the swell?

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  1. The better the swell the greater the waves::

    "Wind-generated waves that have traveled beyond their generating area, usually from a storm far out to sea. Strong winds in a storm will transfer wind energy into the water, which will create waves. As the waves grow larger with continued wind, the energy will transfer deeper below the ocean surface. As the waves move out of the storm area, the stronger waves with more energy below the ocean surface will maintain their strength over distance and will be characterized as deep water waves or swell.

    Swell Period/Length

    The peak period of the swell energy in seconds. If there are multiple swells at a specific location, then the peak period of the dominant swell is used. This is the time between successive wave crests as they pass a stationary point on the ocean surface, such as a buoy. "


  2. The speede of the wave is  = to the wavelength X frequency.

    Th frequency is waves per second, the period is seconds per wave.

    The height of the wave is its swell height, or energy.

    Larger waves do take longer to go by.

    On the ocean the big swells do seem to be far apart .

  3. The period is related to how deeply  the wave is transferring its energy into the ocean so long period swells tend to be larger waves.  In short longer period = more energy = larger (bot not necessarily cleaner) surf.  Read the WTFKs on this subject at surfline.com.

  4. because there is more waves and the swell lasts longer so  we get more surf

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